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The wine world has suffered an irreparable loss. We have lost not only a gifted consultant and winemaker, but a true visionary – a figure whose influence on contemporary wine is difficult to overstate. On 20 March, in Bordeaux, Michel Rolland died at the age of 78, leaving behind one of the brightest and most influential legacies on the global wine stage.
His name became synonymous with oenological mastery. For decades, he helped shape the style of many of the most acclaimed wines of his era, consulting for hundreds of estates across continents and contributing to the creation of cult labels – both client projects (Le Pin, Kirwan, Angélus, Ausone, Smith Haut‑Laffite, Latour Martillac in France; Miolo Family in Brazil; Ornellaia in Italy) and his own wines from Bordeaux, Argentina and South Africa, united under the Rolland Collection umbrella. Yet perhaps his greatest gift was the ability to reveal greatness where few expected it: in modest terroirs, overlooked vineyards, and regions still searching for their voice (Saints Hills in Croatia; Telish Wine Cellar and Jair Agopian in Bulgaria).
His approach – late harvesting, generous fruit, suppleness and depth – was not always universally embraced. At times his judgements seemed uncompromising (for instance, we struggled with his scepticism toward the Greek variety Agiorgitiko, which has since demonstrated – even to Michel Rolland himself – that it had been underestimated). But he remained consistent and persuasive. He believed deeply in the power of ripeness, in the clarity of character, in the idea that wine must be not only technically accomplished but emotionally resonant.
One of his long‑time colleagues recalls: “I first met Michel in June 1985. Since then, we spent decades tasting and debating wine. I did not always share his affection for a generous, high‑alcohol style, but I always admired his clarity of thought, his energy, and that famous Cheshire‑cat smile. I was looking forward to seeing him again in April, when I would return to Bordeaux to taste the 2025 vintage. His perspective on a new Bordeaux harvest was always worth hearing.”
Born in Libourne and raised at the family estate, Château Le Bon Pasteur, Rolland would become one of the world’s most renowned “flying winemakers”. His work demonstrated that great wine is not the exclusive domain of Bordeaux. Argentina, in particular, owes him a profound debt for helping unlock the potential of Malbec and elevating the country’s winemaking reputation to new heights. Spain, too, benefited from his vision.
In 2010, he launched the Rolland & Galarreta project with Javier Galarreta, aiming to introduce French – and international – audiences to the finest expressions of Spanish wine, from Rioja and Priorat to Rueda and Jerez. The white Rueda R&G, remembered by many, was a compelling reminder that Rolland’s talent extended beyond red wines. The collections from Priorat, Rioja and Jerez became worthy ambassadors of “wine Spain” on the world stage.
Michel Rolland (24.11.1947 – 20.03.2026)
His name will remain forever inscribed in the history of wine.
The Drinks+ editorial team extends its deepest sympathies to Dany Rolland, his daughters, the entire Bodega Rolland team who worked alongside him, and all who had the honour of knowing Michel Rolland.
The wine world is quieter today. Yet the legacy he leaves behind – profound, enduring, inexhaustible – will continue to inspire winemakers and wine lovers for generations to come.
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23.03.2026
