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Gastronomy and Wine Portal

Why Schramsberg Has Been Present at the Negotiating Table for More Than Half a Century

Last week, Donald Trump welcomed Xi Jinping to a State Dinner at the White House. For the Chinese leader, it was his first visit to Washington in 11 years. The evening opened with a toast of Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs, and the White House made no attempt to conceal the symbolism behind the choice: the wine was intended to evoke the famous “toast to peace” raised in Beijing in 1972 by Richard Nixon and Zhou Enlai.


To understand the reference, it is worth travelling back more than half a century. In 1972, Richard Nixon became the first US president to visit China. At the State Banquet honouring Zhou Enlai, the official toast was made not with Champagne, but with California sparkling wine: 1969 Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs.

Schramsberg

The following morning, the legendary broadcaster Barbara Walters appeared live from Tiananmen Square holding precisely that bottle in her hands. At the time, Schramsberg was introduced to viewers as a little-known winery from Calistoga.

Schramsberg

That description was entirely accurate. Only seven years earlier, in 1965, Jack and Jamie Davies had purchased the neglected historic property and placed their faith in an idea few believed possible: that California could produce traditional-method sparkling wines capable of standing alongside the world’s finest examples.

The toast in Beijing proved a breakthrough moment for Schramsberg. It also demonstrated to an international audience that California possessed genuine potential as a source of world-class sparkling wine. In the years that followed, leading European producers would establish their own ventures in the region.

Since then, Schramsberg has become a regular presence at official State functions. According to the winery, its wines have been served at more than 90 State dinners and official receptions at the White House.

Seen in this light, the appearance of Schramsberg at the recent dinner with Xi Jinping was anything but accidental. It was a deliberate historical reference to the events of 1972.

Schramsberg

Yet the Chinese connection in the story of Schramsberg reaches back even further. The winery’s underground caves were excavated by Chinese labourers in the 1870s. Today, those same tunnels are used for ageing the house’s sparkling wines, while riddling continues to be performed by hand.

In other words, the guest from Beijing was greeted with a wine whose history has been intertwined with China for more than 150 years. There is, however, one intriguing detail. The White House drew a direct parallel with the sparkling wine used for the historic 1972 toast. But while the wine then was Blanc de Blancs, this time the choice fell on Blanc de Noirs.

The winery remained the same. The wine did not. And perhaps there is symbolism in that as well: over the course of 54 years, political leaders, priorities and global circumstances have all changed, yet Schramsberg once again found its way into the glasses raised around a table where matters of international significance were being discussed.

Incidentally, Schramsberg forms part of the Capstone California educational programme, which recently introduced its advanced Level 4 qualification.

Capstone California

Fittingly, the programme itself has earned international recognition: Capstone California was named the Cultural Mission winner in the Education in Enotourism category of the Wine Travel Awards 2025-2026. Spanning 48 countries, the Wine Travel Awards initiative recognises excellence in development, innovation and contributions to contemporary wine culture.

As a result, this episode has become another compelling case study for discussion in the Capstone California programme, which I teach.

And now I have one more story to tell in class.

Photos: schramsberg.com, facebook.com/k.yushchenko



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Last week, Donald Trump welcomed Xi Jinping to a State Dinner at the White House. For the Chinese leader, it was his first visit to Washington in 11 years. The evening opened with a toast of Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs, and the White House made no attempt to conceal the symbolism behind the choice: the […]

Corton-Charlemagne 2024 by Maison Albert Bichot – the World’s Best White Wine 2026

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2024 – Vignoble du Pavillon by Maison Albert Bichot has received the highest distinction at the International Wine Challenge (IWC) in the white wine category – Champion White 2026, making it the world’s best white wine of 2026.


The award was announced during the annual International Wine Challenge ceremony in London. At IWC 2026, the wine scored 97 points, received a Gold medal and won four competition trophies: the Corton-Charlemagne Trophy, White Burgundy Trophy, French White Trophy and International Chardonnay Trophy.

Maison Albert Bichot

Accepting the award in London, Albéric Bichot shared the recognition with everyone who works every day to create Maison Albert Bichot wines: “We are very happy and extremely proud to have received the Champion White 2026 trophy. This distinction, like all the awards we have received this year, is recognition of the daily work and efforts of our teams in the vineyards and wineries.”

It is particularly meaningful that this year the Drinks+ & Wine Travel Awards team visited the Maison Albert Bichot estates during a wine trip to Burgundy together with Ukrainian winemakers, restaurateurs, journalists and wine enthusiasts. We saw these vineyards first-hand and learned about the House’s work, and today we are especially pleased to celebrate its new international recognition.

Source: facebook.com/domainesalbertbichot, internationalwinechallenge.com
Photo: facebook.com/domainesalbertbichot



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Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2024 – Vignoble du Pavillon by Maison Albert Bichot has received the highest distinction at the International Wine Challenge (IWC) in the white wine category – Champion White 2026, making it the world’s best white wine of 2026. The award was announced during the annual International Wine Challenge ceremony in London. At IWC 2026, […]

Austria’s 2026 vintage

Why drought may shape one of the most striking vintages of the decade.


The 2026 growing season proved a genuine test for Austria’s winegrowers: early budbreak, rapid flowering and record summer heat accompanied by minimal rainfall. Yields are markedly lower, yet the small, concentrated and remarkably healthy berries promise wines of exceptional quality. Drinks+, drawing on information provided by The Austrian Wine Marketing Board (Austrian Wine), explores why these extreme conditions may well deliver one of Austria’s most aromatic vintages in recent years.

Austria’s 2026 wine year: lower yields – greater character

The 2026 harvest was shaped by an abrupt rise in temperatures from late April onwards. Budbreak came early, flowering began between late May and early June, and prolonged summer heat accelerated ripening. The main harvest commenced at the beginning of September, and in Seewinkel (Burgenland) it is already close to completion.

Extreme drought reduced yields to around 1.7 million hectolitres, more than 30% below the 2025 level.

Austrian Wine

(from left to right): Johannes Schmuckenschlager, President of the Austrian Winegrowers’ Association; Chris York, Managing Director of Austrian Wine; and Josef Glatt, Director of the Austrian Winegrowers’ Association, at a press conference on the 2026 harvest.

“In many respects, 2026 is an exceptional year: early ripening, small berries and low volumes. At the same time, growers are bringing in very healthy, fully ripe grapes. We expect an expressive and aromatic vintage,” noted Johannes Schmuckenschlager, President of the Austrian Winegrowers’ Association.

Small berries – concentrated wines with pronounced aromatics

Despite reduced volumes, the quality of the fruit is striking. Low disease pressure ensured consistently healthy grapes, and the small berry size has become a defining feature of the vintage.

Austrian Wine

“Small berries mean less juice but a higher concentration of valuable compounds. That’s why we anticipate particularly aromatic and expressive wines,” explains Schmuckenschlager.

The outlook for red wines is especially promising: small, dark, concentrated berries suggest dense, structured and fully ripe wines.

Weather sets the tone for the vintage

The 2026 season illustrates how climatic challenges can shape a wine’s character:

  • a winter marked by precipitation and intermittent frost;
  • almost summer‑like temperatures from late April;
  • flowering in late May;
  • extended periods above 30°C;
  • near‑total absence of rainfall in Eastern Austria.

Austrian Wine

Even deep‑rooted vines struggled at times. Young vineyards suffered most, and in some cases growers removed part of the crop to reduce stress on the plants. The extent of drought damage varied according to soil structure, water‑holding capacity and vineyard management during dry spells.

Quality remains Austria’s competitive strength

Austrian producers continue to face shifting consumer habits and strong price pressure. Yet their enduring advantage lies in consistent quality, artisanal production and environmental responsibility. These factors allow Austria to remain competitive and expand exports even in challenging years.

Austrian Wine

 



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Photo: © Austrian Chamber of Agriculture / Siegl and © Austrian Wine / www.pov.at

Why drought may shape one of the most striking vintages of the decade. The 2026 growing season proved a genuine test for Austria’s winegrowers: early budbreak, rapid flowering and record summer heat accompanied by minimal rainfall. Yields are markedly lower, yet the small, concentrated and remarkably healthy berries promise wines of exceptional quality. Drinks+, drawing […]

100 Hours of Expertise: California Wines Launches Its Highest Level of Education – Capstone Level 4

On September 15, 2026, in Sacramento, California, California Wines announced the final rollout of Capstone California Level 4, the highest tier of its globally recognized educational program dedicated to California wine. The program expands access to advanced California wine study worldwide as Capstone gains international recognition for its educational and cultural mission.


The four-level certification pathway, spanning introductory study through expert-level authority, establishes the program as the leading advanced qualification focused exclusively on California wine. Level 4 delivers original content through a multilingual, multimedia platform and requires approximately 100 hours of structured study and tastings.

Developed under the leadership of Bree Stock, MW, with advisement from Capstone’s architect and Lead Educator Evan Goldstein, MS, with an international team of leading wine educators, Capstone California Level 4 moves beyond foundational learning to examine California’s position within the global wine landscape today. It offers a rigorous credential for professionals seeking the highest recognized qualification for advanced expertise in California wine, and the first cohort to complete Level 4 will be recognized at a summit in Europe in spring 2027.

California Wines

“With Level 4, Capstone California achieves a global benchmark for California wine knowledge,” said Honore Comfort, Vice President of International Marketing, Wine Institute. “Graduates join a community of experts, elevating the global dialogue on wine through deep regional insight. As a program, Capstone California continues to expand access to high-quality wine education supporting the future of the international wine sector.”

California Wines

The Level 4 program blends structured learning with advanced tastings and hands-on programming, challenging candidates to integrate regional context, production decisions and market understanding of California Wine at an expert level. The curriculum includes interactive quizzes, AVA maps, simulations and video content, alongside webinars and interviews with California producers and winemakers. Capstone California was named the Cultural Mission winner in the Education in Enotourism category of the Wine Travel Awards 2025–2026. Spanning 48 countries, the WTA initiative recognizes development, innovation and contributions to contemporary wine culture.

Capstone was honored for connecting structured education with California’s history, geography and winegrowing culture, and for contributing to a global community where the wine tourism industry exchanges ideas, builds connections and shares information.

“Wine education has always been essential to the industry’s future because it gives people the context to understand not only what is in the glass, but the history, place and people behind it,” said Goldstein. “Capstone builds on Wine Institute’s longstanding educational mission by giving learners around the world a substantive, accessible pathway into the extraordinary diversity and continuing evolution of California wine.”

Capstone California Level 4 was introduced in Warsaw, Poland, during a gathering co-hosted with the Adam Pawłowski MS Wine Academy that brought together Capstone educators and alumni from across the program’s international network. To explore all four levels of study and enroll, visit CapstoneCalifornia.com.

WELCOME TO CALIFORNIA

About Capstone California

Developed by California Wines under the auspices of Wine Institute, Capstone California is a global, four-level certification program focused exclusively on California wine. The curriculum features original content, interactive AVA maps, webinars, and study resources created by Masters of Wine, Master Sommeliers, and leading California wine experts. Successful students receive certificates and professional recognition at each level. CapstoneCalifornia.com

About Wine Institute’s California Wine Export Program 

Established in 1934, Wine Institute is the administrator of the USDA Market Access Program (MAP) for California vintners representing 80% of U.S. wine production and 95% of U.S. wine exports. More than 200 California wineries exporting to 142 countries participate in Wine Institute’s California Wine Export Program. The program has 15 California Wine Institute representatives in key export markets worldwide who provide on-site support to wineries and help develop markets for California wines in more than 30 countries.

The California Wine Export Program, a public-private partnership supported by winery contributions and the USDA’s Market Access Program (MAP), features California as an environmental leader with distinctive wine regions, an ideal climate for growing world-class wines, an iconic lifestyle, and a culinary tradition rooted in locally grown products. In addition to marketing and promoting California wine overseas, Wine Institute conducts a comprehensive International Public Policy program focused on regulatory cooperation, removing trade barriers, and growing California wine exports. Visit calwinexport.com or the consumer website, DiscoverCaliforniaWines.com.

About Wine Institute 

Established in 1934, Wine Institute is the public policy advocacy group of nearly 1,000 California wineries and affiliated businesses. It initiates and advocates state, federal and international public policy to enhance the environment for the responsible production, consumption and enjoyment of wine. The organization works to enhance the economic and environmental health of the state through its leadership in sustainable winegrowing and by showcasing California’s wine regions as ideal destinations for food and wine travelers to the state. To learn more about California wines, visit DiscoverCaliforniaWines.com.

__________________

Kateryna Yushchenko, DipWSET, founder of the Ukrainian Wine & Spirit School (UWSS), Certified Educator, Capstone California**

Kateryna Yushchenko

“For me, the most compelling aspect of Level 4 is that, at a certain point, California ceases to be merely a subject of study. It begins to cohere into a complete landscape – through its wines, its people, its vineyards, its climate, and the dozens of very different stories that shape it. It is close to 100 hours of study during which California is examined as a wine world in its own right: its history and evolution, its AVAs, its emblematic vineyards and producers, its old vines, climate change, sustainability, current research, viticulture and winemaking, as well as the nuances of individual vintages and the stylistic shifts of recent decades. One of the programme’s greatest strengths is its tasting foundation. For a professional in Ukraine, assembling such a broad and representative selection of Californian wines is extraordinarily difficult. Many regions, varieties and styles are simply too limited in their presence on our market. And this is precisely where theory suddenly becomes vividly alive. You are not merely reading about the differences between AVAs – you are tasting them. You do not simply know that California is diverse; you begin to understand just how diverse it truly is. Having completed the highest tier of the programme, Expert Level 4, I want to share a personal impression. I greatly appreciate the way the course is structured. It is not an encyclopaedia to be pecializ, but a continuous interplay of theory, analysis, tasting and real-world examples from the wine industry. For me, a good educational programme is one after which you look at a familiar region and suddenly see far more within it. That is exactly how Level 4 works. For sommeliers, buyers, importers, wine educators and those who already possess a solid foundation in wine studies, Expert Level 4 is not simply another certificate. It is an opportunity to gain genuinely deep pecialization in one of the world’s most important wine regions.”

Dossier

**Ukrainian Wine & Spirit School

The Ukrainian Wine & Spirit School (UWSS) is a WSET Approved Programme Provider in Ukraine and part of the global Wine & Spirit Education Trust educational network. It is widely recognised that the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) is the world leader in professional wine and beverage education. Founded in the United Kingdom in 1969, WSET today encompasses a global network of more than 800 officially accredited programme providers in over 70 countries.

WSET programmes offer structured knowledge of beverages, a systematic approach to tasting, and professional terminology. WSET qualifications are acknowledged and valued across the international industry – by winemakers, importers, retailers, sommeliers and other beverage professionals. For many of them, WSET has become a shared international language of wine education: a standardised system of knowledge and professional training understood across the world.

Over the years, the Ukrainian Wine & Spirit School has trained more than 600 students from 15 countries. Among its graduates are sommeliers, winemakers, importers, retailers, HoReCa professionals, wine journalists and enthusiasts seeking structured international education in wine and spirits. In addition to WSET programmes, UWSS develops international specialised educational courses in Ukraine, including Capstone California – the official educational and certification programme dedicated to the wines of California.



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On September 15, 2026, in Sacramento, California, California Wines announced the final rollout of Capstone California Level 4, the highest tier of its globally recognized educational program dedicated to California wine. The program expands access to advanced California wine study worldwide as Capstone gains international recognition for its educational and cultural mission. The four-level certification pathway, spanning introductory study […]

When Gold is not enough: Christian Wolf of MUNDUS VINI on visibility, marketing value and collaborations

In Germany, Kindergeld, the monthly child benefit, can in certain cases be paid to parents until their children turn 25 – when they are, at last, considered fully grown up. With MUNDUS VINI, one of the world’s most reputable international wine tasting competitions held in the German Neustadt-an-der-Weinstrasse, things are much more dynamic.


Celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, MUNDUS VINI has achieved considerably more than the average German by the same age. Over 25 years, it has grown into one of the world’s leading wine competitions, bringing together thousands of jury members from every continent, assessing hundreds of thousands of wines from around the globe, and awarding more than 60,000 medals for professionalism, quality and excellence. The 2026 anniversary Summer Tasting brought more than 100 tasters from 43 countries to Neustadt to assess nearly 3000 wines.

MUNDUS VINI

Seasoned in character yet young at heart, MUNDUS VINI is constantly evolving. “Twenty years ago, if you won a Gold Medal at one of the major wine competitions, you could expect to sell out your wine. Today, we see that this is no longer necessarily the case. That’s why we decided to add more to the competition,” comments Christian Wolf, Degustation Director, with whom our observer Victoria Makarova spoke during the latest MUNDUS VINI Summer Tasting.


Victoria Makarova: It was a great tasting, despite the challenging times. Are you satisfied?

Christian Wolf: I think we had a really good Summer Tasting, especially considering everything that’s happening in the world, and in the wine industry in particular. I hope that, with the impressive results from this tasting, we can show just how fantastic wine can be and the quality it has to offer. It’s not just about alcohol. Wine is part of a lifestyle, and when you choose a wine awarded by MUNDUS VINI, you know you’re getting something really special.

V.M.: Imagine I’m a producer who is still hesitating about whether to submit my wines to MUNDUS VINI. What would you tell me?

There are a lot of wine competitions around the world, and as a producer, you can choose the ones where you say, “I trust this competition and I get a medal which has value.” Ultimately, it comes down to reputation. That is what MUNDUS VINI has built over 25 years: clear evaluation and award standards, a professional and knowledgeable jury, and a strong focus on giving the winners visibility within the industry.

When we were planning this year’s tastings, we asked ourselves what more we could offer wine producers – something beyond simply winning a medal. Twenty years ago, if you won a Gold at one of the major wine competitions, you could expect to sell out your wine. Today, we see that this is no longer necessarily the case. That’s why we decided to add more to the competition, an additional marketing push. In our communication, we put it as: “Award meets visibility.”

Christian Wolf, MUNDUS VINI Degustation Director

MUNDUS VINI is based in Germany. So if you’re interested in the German market, which has a substantial capacity despite the world’s declining consumption numbers, we can help you very effectively. Behind MUNDUS VINI is the Meininger publishing house, with major magazines covering the German wine business and wine industry. We have one of the biggest networks of local experts, buyers, restaurant owners and other wine professionals, which is, basically, an entry ticket to the German market.

But that does not only relate to Germany, which is important. Our jury members come from over 50 countries, and they include international buyers, importers and representatives of major retailers. We also publish Meiningers International, and we have cooperations with other wine media, such as Drinks+ in Ukraine and other wine media and many countries. So we can spread the message and say: “Here are 50 great wines from Romania, 20 great wines from Hungary, or 300 great wines from Italy.” We publish those lists and make recommendations to wine importers, restaurants and sommeliers. So we’re helping to spread the message about your success at MUNDUS VINI.

V.M.: In recent years your policy for inviting jurors has evolved. What is the current concept?

C.W.: The most important thing to be part of MUNDUS VINI is that you are an industry professional, a certified wine expert with deep knowledge of grape varieties and regions. And, of course, you need to have proved that you are a very good taster – that you can identify great wine quality and distinguish it from wines of lower quality in various categories and segments. That’s the basic requirement.

About three years ago, we started to rethink our invitation policy and bring more young people into the competition. We can see that wine styles have changed a lot over the past ten years, and there is a new generation coming into the wine business: wine buyers, wine journalists, content creators and influencers. So, of course, we want to invite more of these younger people. We want the MUNDUS VINI brand to be present in these channels as well – on Instagram, LinkedIn and other platforms – and to catch the attention of younger consumers.

The idea is that when they see a bottle with a MUNDUS VINI medal on it, they think, “Oh, okay, I know that. I’ve seen it before.” And that familiarity can influence their decision to buy the wine. I wouldn’t call it exactly “flirting with Generation Z.” We manage to maintain a very clear balance between the highest level of expertise – people with 50 years of experience behind them – and younger professionals who may already have WSET diplomas while being under 30. I find that really impressive.

V.M.: For years, you have been partners with ProWein. How is your collaboration developing, and who profits from it more now?

C.W.: ProWein and MUNDUS VINI are two German brands, both are internationally renowned. MUNDUS VINI is closely connected to the owning family, the Meininger family, and to the Meininger publishing house. For me, MUNDUS VINI and Meininger are one.

Christoph Meininger

Christoph Meininger, German publisher and head of the media company

ProWein, which has been taking place in Germany for more than 25 years, has become the most important wine fair in Germany and Europe, and in the meantime it has developed into a leading wine trade fair worldwide.

But the business has changed a lot – not only for ProWein, but also for MUNDUS VINI. Sales channels are different, and people get their information in very different ways compared with ten years ago. This requires changes in the marketing policy, and we are both working on that.

Twenty-five years ago, the Meininger publishing house and ProWein started a fantastic cooperation. The idea was to discuss how the two events could work together to support the wine industry with more information, better education and a better understanding of wine markets – including wine styles, pricing, positioning etc.

There are three core parts to our cooperation. One is the Meininger Awards, which are held on the opening evening before ProWein. That was a great success in 2026, and we’re now adding even more value to the 2027 edition.

What makes me especially proud is the ProWein Zero tasting area, created four years ago through a joint initiative between ProWein and the Meininger publishing house. The ProWein team took care of the exhibitors and provided this great space, while we focused on the educational side, the presentation and the free tasting area. Visitors had the opportunity to taste around 250 different non-alcoholic wines. The idea was not just to show the five top products on the market, but to give people a real overview of what is actually available – what sells well, what doesn’t, and where the quality stands.

And it’s not only about Germany, although I have to say that Germany is still a pioneer in this field. But look at Torres in Spain, for example. They are investing millions to make their No/Lo production even better and bigger. Or Giesen in New Zealand, which is now one of the biggest non-alcoholic wine producers in the world.

What I think is especially important for the ProWein 2027 Zero edition is that we’re going to take a closer look at the rosé and sparkling-tea category, which is developing at an incredible speed. We’ll also give more visibility to the low-alcohol category, which I think is still something different from no alcohol – and perhaps somewhat underestimated, even though the quality can be much better.

With no-alcohol wines, there is still no clear definition of what “low alcohol” actually means. Is 11% already low or not? Is it technically partially dealcoholised? Or, for example, if you have a German Spätlese with 6% alcohol and 100 grams of residual sugar, does that count as low alcohol? I think the wine industry needs to define this category more clearly, so that we know precisely what we are talking about – and what we are not. We need to differentiate low-alcohol wines from other categories.

That will be something highly interesting at ProWein next year, and I would definitely call it our USP.

MUNDUS VINI

Photo: Ad Lumina, Victoria Makarova



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In Germany, Kindergeld, the monthly child benefit, can in certain cases be paid to parents until their children turn 25 – when they are, at last, considered fully grown up. With MUNDUS VINI, one of the world’s most reputable international wine tasting competitions held in the German Neustadt-an-der-Weinstrasse, things are much more dynamic. Celebrating its […]

Domaine des Hospices de Beaune 2026: The Vintage Redefining Burgundy’s Traditional Benchmarks

Record-early vine growth, periods of extreme heat, an historically early harvest and modest yields – yet grapes of remarkable health and quality. The 2026 vintage at Domaine des Hospices de Beaune has proved so unusual that many of Burgundy’s established reference points had to be reassessed throughout the season. Today, the central question has shifted from vineyard to cellar: how can the distinct identity of Burgundy’s Climats be preserved in a year so profoundly shaped by climate?


In early September in Beaune, the team at Domaine des Hospices de Beaune presented its first assessment of this extraordinary growing season. Ludivine Griveau, Estate Manager of Domaine des Hospices de Beaune, reflected on a year that demanded constant observation, rapid responses and a willingness to rethink long-established practices. If the 2026 vintage could be summed up in a single word, that word would almost certainly be adaptation.

Domaine des Hospices de Beaune

 

The Year the Calendar Lost Its Meaning

The first signs of an unusual season appeared remarkably early. Following the rainy September of 2025, which replenished soil water reserves, Burgundy experienced a colder winter, followed by a damp start to spring.Then, in March, everything accelerated dramatically. Bud swell began on 19 March, the first green shoot tips appeared around 25 March, and by 24 April the first inflorescences were already visible. The vines seemed to be moving ahead of the calendar.

The next challenge arrived during flowering. Chardonnay proved particularly sensitive, flowering before Pinot Noir. Elevated temperatures caused significant coulure – poor fruit set – making it clear at an early stage that yields would be limited. Yet perhaps the most revealing aspect of the season was something else: despite the extreme conditions, the vine continued its vegetative cycle uninterrupted. By the end of June, it had become evident that harvesting could begin exceptionally early.

Adapting Rather Than Following Habit

The 2026 season compelled the team at Domaine des Hospices de Beaune to reconsider certain vineyard practices. Young vines required irrigation as early as June. Once véraison began, soil cultivation was halted in order to retain as much moisture and coolness as possible.

From mid-June onwards, the estate also abandoned rognage – trimming the tops of the shoots. The additional leaf canopy provided natural shade and helped protect bunches from excessive solar exposure.

At first glance, these may seem merely technical adjustments. Yet they touch on one of the defining themes of contemporary Burgundy viticulture. As the climate evolves, tradition remains the foundation, but it can no longer serve as an automatic instruction manual.

Growers are increasingly compelled to revisit fundamental questions: what does the vine truly need today? Which established practices remain effective? And which are best set aside in a particular year? The price of such an extreme season was a small crop. Yet Domaine des Hospices de Beaune prefers to view the situation in a broader context. Several French wine regions suffered severe hail episodes immediately before harvest in 2026, with some estates sustaining major losses. In Beaune, yields were modest – but the crop was secured.

15 August: An Historically Early Harvest

Domaine des Hospices de Beaune began harvesting on 15 August 2026. By 24 August, the entire harvest had been completed. It was one of the earliest harvests in the Domaine’s history. Even the usual sequence of vineyard parcels changed: for the first time, Corton was harvested before Volnay.

For an estate farming around 60 hectares across multiple Burgundy appellations, such a pace required exceptional flexibility. Decisions on picking dates had to be made through near-continuous monitoring of each individual parcel. In a changing climate, adaptability alone is no longer enough; speed of response has become equally essential.

Small Yields, Exceptionally Healthy Fruit

Here lies one of the great paradoxes of the 2026 vintage. Despite the challenges of the season, fruit arrived at the winery in outstanding sanitary condition. Less than 3% of berries were removed during sorting. Thick skins, high concentration and promising colour intensity in Pinot Noir suggest considerable potential.

Domaine des Hospices de Beaune

There is, however, another side to the story. Potential alcohol levels are high, in certain cases so high that Ludivine Griveau described them as “stratosphériques”. Yet exceptionally ripe and concentrated grapes do not automatically translate into a great Burgundy wine. Indeed, what may prove to be the most fascinating chapter of the 2026 vintage is only just beginning.

How Can the Character of Each Climat Be Preserved?

For Burgundy, this question is of particular importance. The region’s wine identity is founded upon its ability to express a specific place – a Climat, an historically defined vineyard site distinguished by its unique combination of soil, exposure, microclimate and centuries of human stewardship.

But when seasonal conditions become so dominant – heat, ripeness and concentration – there is a risk that the character of the vintage itself may overshadow the nuances of individual terroirs. This is why the challenge facing the team at Domaine des Hospices de Beaune is far greater than simply conducting a successful vinification.

The objective is to preserve the individuality of every Climat. According to Ludivine Griveau, 2026 will be a vintage in which cellar work assumes particular importance. The grapes arrived with exceptional ripeness and concentration, and the principal task now is to vinify them in a way that preserves freshness, balance and, above all, the singular identity of each Climat.

Extraction management, tannin handling and fermentation control must all aim not to amplify an already powerful raw material, but rather to safeguard finesse and maintain the wine’s connection to its place of origin.

This is one of the defining challenges of the 2026 vintage: ensuring that the personality of a hot year does not eclipse the voice of the terroir itself.

“Vive 2026!”

What makes Ludivine Griveau’s account particularly compelling is not only the extraordinary sequence of events, but also her attitude towards them.

Burgundy viticulture is entering a period in which generations of accumulated knowledge remain invaluable, yet no longer provide ready-made answers to evolving climatic realities. In this sense, 2026 has become something of a laboratory for a new era. It has demanded faster reactions, closer observation of the vines, revised vineyard schedules and, in certain cases, the abandonment of long-established routines.

That is why Ludivine Griveau’s response to this challenging season remains strikingly optimistic: “Vive 2026!” For 2026 has been a year defined by continual adaptation, attentive observation and the search for new solutions.

Today, work on the vintage continues in the cellars of Domaine des Hospices de Beaune. Following the exceptionally early harvest, the team’s central task is to find the right balance between ripeness and freshness, concentration and finesse, the character of the year and the character of each individual Climat.

Pommard occupies a special place within this story. In 2026, AOC Pommard celebrates its 90th anniversary, having been established on 11 September 1936.

During the press day, we had the opportunity to taste two Pommards directly from tank while vinification was still underway: Les Rugiens and Les Epenots. It was a particularly revealing moment. These wines remain at the very beginning of their journey, yet they already provide insight into how the team at Domaine des Hospices de Beaune is handling the exceptionally ripe and concentrated fruit of the 2026 vintage.

The outcome of this work will ultimately determine what the wines of Domaine des Hospices de Beaune 2026 become.

Beaune, Bourgogne – September 2026

Photo: Alexandra Minenko-Decamps



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Record-early vine growth, periods of extreme heat, an historically early harvest and modest yields – yet grapes of remarkable health and quality. The 2026 vintage at Domaine des Hospices de Beaune has proved so unusual that many of Burgundy’s established reference points had to be reassessed throughout the season. Today, the central question has shifted […]

No Russians, No/Lo, no stereotypes: MUNDUS VINI Summer Tasting 2026 reveals new wine reality

Ukrainian winemakers celebrate eight medals and Best of Show


Neustadt-an-der-Weinstrasse once again welcomed wine experts, buyers, sommeliers, media representatives and winemakers from around the world at the end of August – this time with almost subtropical heat and thunderstorms. In the heart of the Pfalz wine region, the international MUNDUS VINI tasting competition, celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, brought together 2,830 still and sparkling wines from countries across Europe, including Moldova, Georgia and Ukraine, as well as New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, Brazil, Mexico, the USA and many others. A separate category was dedicated to No/Lo wines, with 144 entries. Over three busy and rewarding days, the international jury, divided into 18 panels, tasted a total of 2,974 products.

MUNDUS VINI

 

More numbers that speak for themselves

As usual, the wines competed in different categories and were assessed blind. Samples are grouped in advance by type, origin and stylistic characteristics. During the tasting, jury members are given several details for each sample: vintage, grape varieties, sugar level and, for still wines, oak ageing. The wines are scored according to the OIV system.

The key point is that MUNDUS VINI judges do not assess wines according to personal preferences. Instead, they apply defined quality criteria for each category, helping to create as objective a picture as possible of today’s wine market.

The results of MUNDUS VINI Summer Tasting 2026 once again confirmed the high quality of the wines entered: 15 received the competition’s top distinction, Grand Gold; 1,040 wines were awarded Gold and another 643 Silver. The overall tally was 1,698 medals, including 71 (!) awards for the alcohol-free segment – but more on that later.

MUNDUS VINI

 

The frontrunners

The most successful participants were, first and foremost, the traditional European wine-producing countries. Italy led the field with 466 awarded wines: five received Grand Gold, 287 Gold and 174 Silver. Spain came second with 282 awards, followed by Germany with 204. Portugal took home 163 awards, while France received 100.

Looking at the regional breakdown among the leading countries, Veneto brought Italy its biggest haul with 97 awards, followed by Tuscany with 69 and Puglia with 60. In Spain, Castilla y León led with 61 awards, closely followed by Rioja with 60. In Germany, the Pfalz came out on top with 65 awards, followed by Württemberg with 44, Rheinhessen with 23 and Baden with 21 awarded wines.

There were also strong results from countries making an increasingly visible mark on the international wine scene. Georgia and Romania each received 60 awards, South Africa 58 and Austria 51. Moldova collected 29 awards, Greece 23, while North Macedonia and Hungary each took 21. Armenian wines won 15 awards, the vast majority of them Gold.

Ukrainian winemakers also made their mark, collecting eight awards: five Gold and three Silver medals. Among the more unexpected results were two Gold medals for wines from Denmark’s Jutland region.

According to the organisers, the results clearly demonstrate how much the wine world is opening up, with more countries and regions stepping into the spotlight beyond the traditionally recognised ones.

MUNDUS VINI

 

Best of Show: the standouts in categories

Let’s take a closer look at the Best of Show awards. They go to the highest-scoring wine in each category – wines that stand out as strong examples of the quality and character of their region of origin. This year’s winners include familiar names and classic wine regions, alongside new discoveries from regions currently making a name for themselves.

Interestingly, in the German categories, Best of Show awards were determined not only by region and wine style – red, rosé, sparkling and noble sweet – but also by the key grape varieties: Riesling, Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), Silvaner, Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc) and Sauvignon Blanc.

The top German Riesling at MUNDUS VINI Summer Tasting 2026 was the dry Riesling Auf der Mauer 2024 VDP.Gutswein from Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, the renowned estate from Deidesheim.

The Best Buy category is also worth a mention, recognising wines that offer the best balance of quality and price. This year, it included the dry Riesling Deidesheimer Hofstück 2025 from Deidesheimer Weinmanufaktur in the Pfalz and Pinot Blanc 2025 from Weinhaus Köhler from Rheinhessen.

Emerging wine countries delivered impressively assured results as well. One need only recall Casa Madero Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, awarded Mexico’s Best of Show. And with particular pride, we note three distinctions earned by the long‑standing laureates of the Wine Travel Awards: Best of Show Georgia for Salome 2020 from the celebrated Shumi winery; Best of Show Moldova for Castel Mimi Grand Reserve Negru de Bulboaca 2018; and Best of Show Ukraine – a title once again claimed by SHABO of Odesa for Saperavi SHABO Reserve 2025, which also received a Gold medal.

Ukraine keeps delivering

Despite ongoing missile and drone attacks, difficult logistics and a challenging economic situation, several Ukrainian wineries took part in the MUNDUS VINI Summer Tasting, winning eight medals – five of them Gold. Congratulations to all the winners!

  • SHABO (Odesa region): Saperavi SHABO Reserve 2025 – Gold and Best of Show; Aged Sparkling SHABO Grand Reserve – Gold.
  • BIG WINES (Kyiv region): Big Wines Big Art CABERNET SAUVIGNON OAKED 2024  – Gold; Big Wines Big Art SUKHOLYMANSKYI 2025 – Silver.
  • 46 Parallel Wine (Odesa region): El Capitan 46 Parallel Pinot Gris 2025 – Silver.
  • My Wine by Eduard Gorodetsky (Odesa region): Suholimansky 2025  – Gold.
  • Family Winery LOWKOWO (Zhytomyr region): Cabernet Sauvignon Aged 2024 – Gold; Pinot Noir 2025 – Silver.

One further point concerning Ukraine, in our view, merits comment. In light of the troubling experience at the recent Concours Mondial de Bruxelles – whose organisers admitted not only wineries from russia, some owned by individuals under international sanctions, but also wines from the unrecognised region of Crimea, currently occupied by russia (as we reported in detail here) – the editorial team of Drinks+ and representatives of Wines of Ukraine approached the organisers of MUNDUS VINI in advance, requesting clarification regarding the participation of producers from russia and wines originating from occupied territories. We received an unequivocal response: MUNDUS VINI does not cooperate with the aggressor state, sanctioned individuals, or wineries from territories occupied by russia.

We are deeply grateful to the MUNDUS VINI team and to Meininger Verlag, the founders of the competition, for their principled and civilised stance, for their consistent support of Ukrainian wine producers – including the substantial discounts offered to our wineries – and for the warm, heartfelt welcome extended each year to Ukrainian judges invited to serve on the panel.

MUNDUS VINI

 

No/Lo – from niche to serious contender 

The progress in the No/Lo segment demonstrated by the MUNDUS VINI Summer Tasting 2026 is genuinely striking. The numbers tell part of the story: of the 144 entries of dealcoholized still and sparkling wines – specifically these two categories, rather than flavoured alcohol-free drinks – 71 received medals. Twenty-eight wines won Gold and another 43 Silver.

The judging process for the category is evolving too, taking into account the technological and sensory characteristics of dealcoholized wine. At the start of the tasting session, Dr Ulrich Fischer, Professor of Oenology and Sensory Science at Weincampus Neustadt and a specialist in the production technology and sensory development of alcohol-free wines, led an introductory workshop for all jury members assessing No/Lo wines. Using medal-winning wines from the previous competition, the experts calibrated their approach to judging this particularly challenging category.

The overall impression was clear: the quality of No/Lo wines has improved significantly, particularly among still white and sparkling wines. The aromatics have improved significantly, while work on the overall sensory profile continues. German researchers and winemakers are investing heavily in this field, so it comes as little surprise that German No/Lo wines took the most medals: 11 Gold and 26 Silver.

Rolf Willy Neverfull Muskateller was named Germany’s best alcohol-free wine, while the alcohol-free NIGRA Cabernet Blanc by Moselland, a large cooperative which has members and affiliated wine operations in Mosel, Nahe, Rheinhessen and Pfalz, took Best of Show Sparkling Germany. Moselland Riesling Alkoholfrei 2025 also received a Best Buy award (it currently retails for no more than €6).

In the alcohol‑free segment, the title of “Best Producers” was awarded to Henkell & Co. Sektkellerei.

Spain also performed strongly, with six Gold and three Silver medals, while Italy took seven Gold and four Silver. Together with Germany, the three countries are currently leading the No/Lo wine sector.

Beyond the medals: the judges’ take

Long‑standing MUNDUS VINI judge, Iryna Diachenkova, co-founder of Drinks Plus Media Group, looks back on more than 20 years of close cooperation with MUNDUS VINI: “Our team is sincerely grateful to the organisers of the competition, Meininger Verlag, for our long-term partnership. It would not have been possible without the shared professional values of our teams. We consider every invitation for a member of our group to join the international jury a great honour. It is always a pleasure to be part of a flawlessly organised tasting, to see the genuine respect shown to winemakers, exchange ideas with fellow judges from around the world, take part in a unique educational programme and, of course, discover the wines entered in the competition.”

Ірина Дьяченкова

In Iryna’s view, the overall standard of wines at MUNDUS VINI has always been exceptionally high, and this summer’s tasting was no exception.

“Every time, among hundreds of wines, you come across individual bottles, or even entire flights, that can surprise you. This time, I was particularly impressed by the selection of Traminer and Gewürztraminer wines, entered in three categories according to residual sugar: up to 4 g/l, 4.1–12 g/l and 12.1–45 g/l. Five of the 12 wines received Gold. The most elegant was a dry Traminer 2023 from Valul lui Traian in Moldova. Two excellent Gewürztraminers from Moselle Luxembourg also won Gold, while Trentino in Italy and Valencia in Spain produced some very strong examples as well. Among this year’s pleasant discoveries were North Macedonia, with a 2020 Carmenere and Cabernet Sauvignon-based blends, and Bosnia and Herzegovina, with the vibrant Blatina 2021 and Trnjak 2022.”

Peter Douglas, DipWSET (Germany), founder of the Sustaina Wines consulting agency, has been part of the MUNDUS VINI jury for many years, including as a panel chair. In his view, the competition’s medals have become a genuine mark of quality.

Peter Douglas

“A MUNDUS VINI medal gives buyers an indication of the level of quality they can expect from a wine before they even receive the samples. I work in B2B distribution, and this competition is one of the benchmarks I look to. I know the judging here is taken seriously, so when a wine receives an award, it gives me a good reason to take a closer look at it.”

For Douglas, the value goes far beyond the German market. “If you want to build awareness of your brand and grow it, you need external validation. MUNDUS VINI is an excellent platform for that  – both in Germany and internationally.”

Dr Matthew Horkey (USA), a certified wine expert, author and creator of a popular YouTube wine channel, has been judging at MUNDUS VINI twice a year since 2021 and has also chaired tasting panels. He says has noticed some changes in the way the jury is put together – and sees them as a positive development: “There is definitely a sense of renewal. You see more young faces among the judges. Given MUNDUS VINI’s high standards, I have no doubt about their competence: every judge here has a solid CV and relevant experience. I have never come across an inexperienced taster at MUNDUS VINI – unlike at some other competitions.”

Matthew Horkey

Horkey also sees a practical benefit in the competition’s awards for smaller and medium-sized wineries, apart from major producers: “I used to think that a MUNDUS VINI medal could make a real difference for what you might call ‘supermarket wines’ – there are quite a lot of them in every competition, and they can demonstrate very decent quality within their category. But now I’m starting to think that small producers could benefit too. My last flight in this tasting was Nebbiolo, and a lot of the wines were Barbarescos from Alto Piemonte. The quality was exceptionally high. And judging by the areas they came from, there were clearly producers who don’t have a great deal of visibility yet. The medals they receive can help them gain wider recognition.”

Photo: Ad Lumina, Victoria Makarova, Iryna Diachenkova



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Ukrainian winemakers celebrate eight medals and Best of Show Neustadt-an-der-Weinstrasse once again welcomed wine experts, buyers, sommeliers, media representatives and winemakers from around the world at the end of August – this time with almost subtropical heat and thunderstorms. In the heart of the Pfalz wine region, the international MUNDUS VINI tasting competition, celebrating its […]

Robin Jayet of Château de Marsannay: “Wine tourism should give people something they cannot get from social media”

Burgundy can be complicated: appellations, classifications, centuries of history. At Château de Marsannay, Robin Jayet’s job is to make all of this understandable without taking away the pleasure of simply being there, tasting and asking questions. As the Wine Tourism Manager, he sees first-hand what visitors from around the world are looking for – and what makes them want to stay a little longer. He shares his perspective in an interview with Drinks+ Observer’s Victoria Makarova.


V.M.: Château de Marsannay was nominated in the “Must Visit” category by the Wine Travel Awards 2026-2027. What do you think makes a wine estate genuinely worth travelling to today – beyond a beautiful château, a cellar tour and a tasting?

R.J.: We are very grateful for this nomination. It is a wonderful recognition for the whole team at Château de Marsannay, because welcoming visitors has been part of our identity for almost 40 years.

For me, what makes a wine estate worth travelling to is not necessarily the beauty of the building, but the quality of the human experience you have there. Fine wine has this extraordinary ability to bring people together and create genuine moments of sharing. I think accessibility matters enormously. Burgundy can be fascinating but also intimidating, particularly for first-time visitors. The best estates are able to share their knowledge without making visitors feel that they need to be wine experts to enjoy their wines.

Château de Marsannay

Robin Jayet, Wine Tourism Manager at Château de Marsannay

Of course, when you visit Château de Marsannay, you will discover our wines, our cellar and our winemaking process. But first, we want to give you the keys to understand what makes Burgundy so special. We take the time to explain the fundamentals: what makes Burgundy different, what a Climat (a precisely defined vineyard parcel) is, how the classification works, how a vineyard is farmed, and how all these elements eventually find their way into the glass. We try to do that without making wine unnecessarily complicated. I believe authenticity in wine tourism means being honest about who you are, how you work. If visitors leave curious enough to look at the next bottle of Burgundy differently, then we have done our job.

V.M.: Social media has made wine tourism increasingly visual. Has this changed what visitors actually want to experience, and do you ever find yourself designing an experience with the camera in mind?

R.J.: Social media has changed the way we travel. We all take photographs, and when we discover a beautiful place, we naturally want to share it. And honestly, that can be a wonderful form of recommendation for a winery.

At Château de Marsannay, social media hasn’t been our priority yet. We may look like a large estate from the outside, but in the way we operate, we’re still a small-to-medium-sized winery. Over the past ten years, most of our energy and investment has gone into more sustainable vineyard practices and creating a better experience for our visitors. So yes, we’re probably still a little behind on Instagram – although we’re always happy when visitors follow us!

More seriously, I sometimes think the most valuable experiences are the ones you can’t photograph. What happens when you simply put your phone away for an hour or two? You’re ten metres underground, surrounded by the arches and cool air of our cellar, with hundreds of barrels stretching out around you. And there’s that particular smell: a mix of oak, wine and the cool, damp air of an underground cellar. Then you taste the wines with someone who can answer your questions and tell you the story behind them. That combination of senses, atmosphere and human connection is difficult to reproduce on a screen.

Château de Marsannay

Wine tourism should give people something they cannot get from social media: time together, genuine conversation, knowledge and a real sense of place. That said, if you do come to Château de Marsannay, I will happily show you the best angle for the prettiest photograph of the cellar!

V.M.: You work with visitors who may know a lot about wine – or virtually nothing. How do you create an experience that works for both without making either group feel out of place?

R.J.: That is really at the heart of what we do. I don’t think the answer is to create two separate worlds for experts and beginners, but to offer an experience that people can enter at different levels. We have different formats, from small-group visits to private tours, in both French and English. Whatever the format, though, we deliberately avoid a fully scripted tour. Every group is different, and we want every visit to feel different too.

Château de Marsannay

We usually start with the basics: where you are, what makes the region distinctive, and what you’re about to taste. From there, we follow the questions and interests of the group. Having different levels of knowledge can actually make a visit more interesting: an expert’s question can open up a whole new subject for a beginner. Wine tourism works best when learning becomes something you share, rather than a test of what you already know.

The key is language. Good wine education is not about simplifying the wine, but about simplifying the language we use to talk about it.

V.M.: Younger consumers often seem less interested in traditional wine rituals and more interested in authenticity, discovery and experiences they can share. Do you see this at the château, and if so, what do you offer them?

R.J.: We are witnessing a broader change in the way people consume wine and alcohol. Younger generations seem more interested in balance, wellbeing and spontaneous experiences. They may drink less, but they often want to understand what they are drinking and choose something they genuinely enjoy. I believe that is a positive evolution for wine.

Recent research on French and Italian young adults found that sustainable practices, environmental commitment and biodiversity can positively influence their interest in wine tourism. Looks like we fit right in.

For decades, we have tried to keep the experience at Château de Marsannay as authentic as possible. We have never wanted to surround wine with an artificial sense of luxury. Instead, we want to show what really lies behind each bottle: the vineyards, the people, the work and the decisions that go into it – and, of course, the pleasure.

We produce around 45 different wines from our 40 hectares of vineyards, so there is an extraordinary diversity to explore. It means we can offer something for very different tastes and occasions.

V.M.: Wine tourism is becoming more competitive: wineries are offering workshops, vineyard walks, gastronomic and cultural experiences and much more. Where do you think the line is between enriching the wine experience and turning the winery into an entertainment venue?

R.J.: I think the line is quite simple: everything you add should help people understand, appreciate or remember the wine and the place.

Burgundy is still relatively new to this development of wine tourism. We have an extraordinary number of small, family-owned wineries that are only now beginning to open their doors to visitors from around the world. Château de Marsannay may be a comparatively young estate, yet it has been welcoming visitors for almost forty years. Over that time, we have come to understand that hospitality is not merely a matter of adding ever more activities. Of course, we continue to evolve. We now have a dedicated reception hall for larger gatherings, where wine remains the central thread running through every occasion. For groups, we offer thoughtful pairings of wine and cheese, as well as tastings of rarer, more premium cuvées.

For me, food, architecture, landscape or a walk through the vineyards can all enrich the experience, as long as they remain connected to the story of the wine. I am actually looking at a place in our vineyards where we could create a more viticulture-focused experience, with a tasting outside among the vines. That is the kind of development that makes sense to me: getting people closer to the land rather than simply adding entertainment. The vineyard itself is already an extraordinary experience. We don’t need to compete with it.

V.M.: Burgundy is already a destination in its own right. Does that make wine tourism easier, because people are already coming here, or harder, because visitors have so much else to choose from?

R.J.: I think Burgundy benefits enormously from already being recognised as a destination, but that also creates a responsibility. Visitors don’t come here only for wine. They come for gastronomy, architecture, history, culture and landscapes, particularly in Dijon. Wine tourism therefore has to become part of a broader Burgundy experience rather than competing with other activities. That is actually one of Burgundy’s greatest strengths. The wine is inseparable from the place.

Château de Marsannay

In my opinion it is both an opportunity and a challenge. Competition can be a good thing: it pushes wineries to improve the way they welcome visitors and what they offer them. Ultimately, visitors benefit from that.

V.M.: Which wine-tourism trend do you think will still matter five years from now – and which one will have disappeared by then?

R.J.: The trend I believe will last is authenticity (if one may call it a trend), but authenticity in its simplest form: showing people the real work behind the bottle. More and more visitors want to know what they are drinking, where it comes from and who makes it. They don’t necessarily need more luxury or spectacle. What matters is a genuine connection with the place and meeting the people who work there. What I hope will disappear is the idea that wine tourism needs to look luxurious or impressive at all costs.

Burgundy produces some of the world’s greatest and most expensive wines. That naturally creates an association with luxury. But the reality behind every bottle remains much more fundamental: soil, vines, weather, time and an enormous amount of human work. We are facing real challenges, but I find that quite exciting. If we can welcome people into the vineyard, explain why we are changing the way we work, and share what we are learning along the way, then wine tourism can be part of that positive story.

The future of Burgundy will depend on our ability to adapt while preserving what makes the region unique. We’ll have to think more carefully about how we farm, protect biodiversity and manage water, as well as how we package and transport wine. The Bourgogne wine sector is already working hard to reduce its environmental impact, and a lot of research is now focused on how vineyards can adapt to a changing climate and how we may need to farm differently in the future.

At Château de Marsannay, I get to show visitors from all over the world not only the Burgundy we have inherited, but also the Burgundy we are trying to preserve and build for the next generations. And that, perhaps, is what makes the job so interesting.

Château de Marsannay



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Burgundy can be complicated: appellations, classifications, centuries of history. At Château de Marsannay, Robin Jayet’s job is to make all of this understandable without taking away the pleasure of simply being there, tasting and asking questions. As the Wine Tourism Manager, he sees first-hand what visitors from around the world are looking for – and […]

Château du Clos de Vougeot – the ancient and modern acropolis of Burgundy

The Wine Travel Awards team set out to answer a question that has long intrigued the wine world: what lies behind the contemporary phenomenon of Burgundy – a region that somehow manages to remain untouched by the turbulence sweeping through global wine markets? How does a region that accounts for merely 4.3% of France’s vineyards maintain its global primacy in prestige, wine prices and cultural influence? And why, at a time when wine sales and real‑estate values – including vineyard prices – are falling elsewhere, does Burgundy continue to demonstrate dignified growth across every indicator?


To seek answers, we travelled – in the company of renowned winemakers and restaurateurs – through Burgundy’s domaines from north to south, from Chablis to Mâconnais. The epicentre of our exploration, naturally, was the legendary Côte d’Or. And above all, the bearer of the region’s cultural code: Château du Clos de Vougeot – the place where Burgundian identity took shape and its traditions acquired a sacred weight. In essence, Château du Clos de Vougeot is Burgundy’s place of power, its cultural and intellectual centre.

The Burgundians themselves sometimes compare this Cistercian château to an acropolis. An equally apt parallel is a parliament – for it is here that the meetings of Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, founded in 1934 on the grounds of Clos de Vougeot, take place. The brotherhood was created to promote Burgundy’s wines within France and beyond.

Burgundy

Not everyone realises it, but every sommelier in the world is, in one way or another, connected to the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. The brotherhood’s name includes tastevin – the small silver cup from which winemakers traditionally tasted wine for maturity in Burgundy’s dark cellars. It was the brotherhood’s idea to transform the tastevin from a utilitarian tool into a symbol of professional belonging. In time, the tastevin became a global emblem of the sommelier’s craft. Among the brotherhood’s honorary members are Charles de Gaulle, other French presidents, Ronald Reagan, Alfred Hitchcock, Grace Kelly and Catherine Deneuve. Today, this remarkable community counts 12,000 chevaliers. The brotherhood is also one of the most influential organisers of major regional events – including the Saint‑Vincent Tournante festival, the Tastevinage competition and the restoration of Clos de Vougeot itself, where the annual gastronomic world championship Championnat du Monde des Œufs en Meurette is held – this year’s winner of the Wine Travel Awards.

It is only logical that the reasons for Burgundy’s resilience in today’s economic turbulence should be sought in its historical roots. So let me recount the historical vignette we heard during our tour of Château du Clos de Vougeot – a journey back to the 1930s, to the origins of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin.

Despite the outstanding vintages of 1929, 1933 and 1934, Burgundy at that time was in the grip of a severe economic crisis. Wine sales had collapsed; winemakers were struggling. And in the very midst of this crisis, two optimistic Burgundians from the small town of Nuits‑Saint‑Georges – Georges Faiveley and Camille Rodier – gathered friends in a wine cellar and delivered a speech inspired by the humour of Rabelais and the philosophy of Molière. And, of course, by a measure of local wine. I dare say that the final dose of courage was not exactly modest. In any case, beneath the vaults of the medieval cellar, they proclaimed:

“Fine wines such as ours must inspire joy and optimism. Enough lamentation! If our cellars are full, we must empty them – and invite friends to help. Let us revive our old bacchic brotherhoods. To defy fate, let us borrow from Rabelais his stubbornness and good humour, and from Molière his smiling philosophy and common sense…”

The meeting, they say, lasted long into the night and ended only when the participants solemnly pledged to fight “for the benefit of the great wines of France in general, and Burgundy’s wines in particular”. As historians would later recall, that gathering was “a ray of sunlight in the night of the cellars”.

Truth be told, the Tastevin of that era became a revival of the bacchic brotherhoods of the 17th–18th centuries – bachiques confréries, wine guilds that continued the ancient traditions of festivals dedicated to Bacchus – though this time the cause was not abundance but economic hardship. And who knows – perhaps the brotherhood would have remained merely a cheerful feast in the annals of history, had its first decisive act not been the purchase of Château du Clos de Vougeot, which provided a “showcase among the vines”.

Let us recall that as early as the 16th century, Clos de Vougeot held the privileged status of the largest wine producer in the area. But in line with the ambitions of the founders of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, quantity was to be transformed into the highest degree of quality. Their next natural step was the creation, in 1950, of the wine competition Tastevinage.

This competition is so unique that it deserves a separate explanation. In essence, it is not a contest but a test of trust – trust in the wine and in its maker. The judges, unlike in the professional evaluations we are accustomed to, do not focus on acidity, drinkability, density, colour or tannin maturity. Those who assess wines at Tastevinage must answer entirely different questions: “Do you like it? Would you offer it to a friend? Would you share this wine with someone dear to you?” I dare suggest that only Burgundy – with its regal impeccability, where the highest quality of all other parameters is assumed – can permit itself such “light‑heartedness” in wine evaluation.

Burgundy

Yet this empathetic angle does not exclude the highest degree of professionalism. For the sake of ideal perception, a special glass was developed for the 100th session of Tastevinage – patented exclusively for Château du Clos de Vougeot. Its tulip‑shaped bowl and distinctive slanted rim – inspired by the incline of Burgundy’s vineyard slopes, divided into legendary climats – enhance retro‑olfaction, concentrate the bouquet and allow for more precise assessment of the nuances of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The glass has become the modern symbol of Tastevinage and is used during official tastings at Château du Clos de Vougeot.

We are grateful to the administration of Château du Clos de Vougeot – and to our good fortune. During the Wine Travel Awards nominees’ tour, we were received at the highest level, in the hall reserved for honorary ceremonies, and the tasting was conducted using these new original glasses – delicate instruments created for the utmost precision in evaluating Burgundy’s wines. It seems fitting here to remind our readers of the correct serving temperatures: reds at 16°C, whites in the 11–13°C range.

The rich tasting organised for our group at Château du Clos de Vougeot led us through the principal stylistic lines of Burgundy and Vosne Romanée, home to six of the region’s thirty‑three grands crus. These are the legendary vineyards that produce wines of global renown – including the incomparable Romanée‑Conti, whose 1945 vintage is valued today at hundreds of thousands of dollars. And most intriguingly, experts assure us that the wine is still alive –  still capable of giving pleasure.

We tasted white wines from 2019 and 2020: the first vintage – classic and structured; the second – born of a hot summer yet astonishingly balanced. In the reds of Vosne Romanée, the sommelier showed us two stylistic lines – floral (rose petals, violet) and berry (blackcurrant, raspberry) – explaining how heat shifts the aroma towards the blackcurrant spectrum.

The samples from the commune Chambolle‑Musigny (Côte de Nuits) are traditionally described as Burgundy’s “feminine” wines – and this is not a metaphor but an officially recognised characteristic of the appellation. Its style is distinguished by exceptional elegance: velvety tannins, a floral bouquet of violet and rose, delicate notes of raspberry and strawberry, and a silky texture that Burgundy describes as soie et dentelle – “silk and lace”. Despite its gentleness, AOC Chambolle‑Musigny possesses a firm yet exquisitely presented structure, creating a unique balance of strength and delicacy. The sommelier at Clos de Vougeot commented on it precisely as such – the most elegant and refined expression of Pinot Noir in Côte de Nuits.

The wines of Volnay and Pommard demonstrated the contrast between finesse and structure, as well as the importance of the concept of climat: a single letter in a vineyard’s name today may signify different soil, exposure and an entirely different wine character. This is why one parcel in these parts may be valued at €9 million per hectare, while just across a footpath another may be suitable only for grazing calves.

Let me remind you: Burgundy has more than 1,200 climats – historical micro‑terroirs listed by UNESCO. Each has its own story, and together they produce the remarkable statistics shared with us at Château du Clos de Vougeot. These current figures allow us – at least partially – to understand the nature of the Burgundian phenomenon.

Burgundy in numbers

(sources: Douanes, IRI, BIVB, DRAF, CAVB, DGDDI; averages for 2019–2023)

Vineyards and production

  • 32,301 ha of vineyards – 4.3% of France’s vineyard area
  • Territory – 203 km²
  • Average annual production – 1.49 million hl
  • Production structure: 61% white wines, 27% red and rosé, 12% Crémant de Bourgogne

Appellations and varieties

  • 84 AOC – 23% of all French appellations
  • 33 Grands Crus
  • 44 Villages and Premiers Crus
  • 7 regional appellations

Varieties

  • Chardonnay 57%
  • Pinot Noir 34%
  • Aligoté 6%
  • Gamay and Sauvignon 3%

Regional structure

  • Chablis & Grand Auxerrois – 20% of area and production
  • Côte de Beaune – 13% of area, 11% of production
  • Côte de Nuits – 6% of area, 5% of production
  • Côte Chalonnaise – 5%
  • Mâconnais – 6%
  • Regional appellations – 50% of area and more than half of production

Economy and production structure

  • 3,489 domaines, of which 1,926 produce more than 10,000 bottles
  • 316 négociant houses
  • 16 cooperatives
  • Contribution to regional GDP – 3.3%
  • Employment – 45,200 people (7% of the labour market of Bourgogne–Franche‑Comté)
  • Average domaine size – 8.51 ha

Exports

  • 50% of production exported
  • Main markets: USA – 20%, UK –  16%, Canada –  9%,  Belgium –  8%,  Japan –  8%

Financial indicators

  • Total turnover –  €2.3 billion – 58% exports – 33% traditional channels (restaurants, cavistes, direct sales) – 9% supermarkets and hard discount
  • Burgundy’s share in global wine trade – 4% of value with 0.4% of world production
  • In France: 25% of export turnover with 5.5% of national production

These figures show that Burgundy is a wine region whose cultural and economic weight far exceeds its physical scale. In truth, Burgundy is an economic and cultural giant disguised as a small region. Yet nothing offers clearer perspective than comparison. So the Drinks+ editorial team conducted a brief – perhaps cursory –  study: “Burgundy vs Bordeaux”.

  • Varieties Bordeaux – multi‑varietal blends Burgundy – mono‑varietal wines dominated by Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
  • Terroir Bordeaux – classification by estates Burgundy – the cult of micro‑terroir, classification by vineyards and climats.
  • Style Bordeaux – powerful, structured wines Burgundy – refined, elegant, transparent to the soil.
  • Vineyard area (2025) Bordeaux – 110,800 ha Burgundy – 30,000–32,000 ha.

The ratio is almost 4:1, yet in reality it is Burgundy that is often more expensive, more prestigious and more unattainable. Perhaps scarcity breeds desire.

The exclusivity of land – the foundation of Burgundy’s stability

During our journey, we visited domaines where vineyard prices reach €9–12 million per hectare. And even at such prices, parcels are not for sale. At all. This closedness, inaccessibility and ultimately elitism form Burgundy’s unique advantage. Unlike Bordeaux, where estates can expand, Burgundy’s land has sacred value. It is passed down, protected, preserved as heritage.

Burgundy

According to many observers, this is precisely why Burgundy has maintained its remarkable stability throughout the global wine crisis – prices have not fallen, demand has not waned, and the value of land continues to rise. Denis Anjuere, Export Manager at Albert Bichot, offered a succinct explanation: “If you look at Burgundy’s potential in terms of vineyard surface, over the past 40–45 years it has expanded only very modestly – by roughly 1,000 hectares – while neighbouring regions have grown by 10,000 to 20,000. I believe this is the key reason. And, of course, more and more people are discovering Burgundy for themselves – as a region producing truly unique wines – which is why prices continue to rise despite the broader crisis.”

Climate change – a troubling horizon

Our June expedition lasted a week. In the final days, temperatures held at 38–40°C. For us, it was not merely a test of endurance during tastings (for which the D+ team is especially grateful to everyone who embarked on that scorching journey), but a revelation: even the Golden Slopes – Côte d’Or, famed for cool summer rains – are not protected from global warming. Today, France, which endured that June heatwave with difficulty – and even with human losses – stands on the threshold of revising many of its principles, including the ban on installing air‑conditioning in historic buildings.

Moreover, we heard from several winemakers – calmly, without drama – that within a few years Burgundy may cease to produce its incomparable, delicate Pinot Noir. This is a fact, a reality for which preparations are already underway. And a new question arises: is there a region on the planet capable, under the pressure of warming, of taking over Burgundy’s fine‑wine baton? For now, the answer is unclear. But it is precisely such questions that keep the wine world alive –  and compel us to return to Burgundy’s golden slopes again and again.

Dossier

Grand Auxerrois Grand Auxerrois is a wine sub‑region of Burgundy that unites several appellations around the town of Auxerre. It is not a separate AOC but a geographical wine zone within the broader Bourgogne region.

It includes a group of appellations located near Chablis yet possessing their own stylistic identity and history:

  • Irancy AOC • Saint‑Bris AOC (the only Sauvignon Blanc in Burgundy) • Côte d’Auxerre • Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre • Bourgogne Coulanges‑la‑Vineuse • Bourgogne Épineuil • Bourgogne Chitry
  • Stylistically, Grand Auxerrois offers: • Pinot Noir with bright fruit and light tannins (Irancy, Épineuil) • Chardonnay in a fresh, mineral style • Sauvignon Blanc in Saint‑Bris – unique for all of Burgundy • Aligoté and other local expressions.


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The Wine Travel Awards team set out to answer a question that has long intrigued the wine world: what lies behind the contemporary phenomenon of Burgundy – a region that somehow manages to remain untouched by the turbulence sweeping through global wine markets? How does a region that accounts for merely 4.3% of France’s vineyards […]

Ukrainian Winemakers in Dijon: A Journey of Resilience

This summer, Burgundy – that intricate mosaic of climats, limestone and centuries‑old savoir‑faire – welcomed a group of Ukrainian winemakers whose presence felt both symbolic and quietly momentous.


Their visit to Burgundy was part of a professional tour organised by Drinks+, guided by Aleksandra Minenko‑Decamps  –  Wine Travel Awards ambassador and one of the top wine guides recognised by the WTA community. Her deep knowledge of Burgundy, combined with her ability to connect cultures through wine, shaped the experience into something far more meaningful than a technical study trip.

The itinerary offered Ukrainian producers a rare opportunity to observe how one of the world’s most revered wine regions continues to evolve. Even in a period of global market contraction, Burgundy demonstrates a paradoxical vitality  –  a phenomenon that intrigued the visiting group and sparked thoughtful conversations in cellars, tasting rooms and vineyard paths.

For Ukrainian winemakers, many of whom work under the pressure of war, logistical uncertainty and the emotional weight of defending their homeland, Burgundy became a place of reflection. Standing among the grand cru slopes, they were reminded that wine is always more than a beverage  –  it is identity and a form of cultural resistance.

Українське вино

Their presence in Dijon on August 24, during the celebration of Ukraine’s Independence Day, added another layer of meaning. Wines from Valery Narovilo, BIG WINES, My Wine by Eduard Gorodetsky, SHABO, Leleka Wines, GIGI Wine House and the meadery Medovyi Spas were poured for French guests who approached the tasting tables with curiosity and genuine warmth. The wines spoke for themselves: confident, expressive, modern and unmistakably Ukrainian.

For Wine Travel Awards, this moment encapsulates the essence of wine tourism: the exchange of cultures, the discovery of new identities and the celebration of human resilience through the lens of wine. The fact that these winemakers had travelled through Burgundy earlier this year  –  learning, tasting, debating  –  under the guidance of a WTA ambassador, made their return to France as representatives of Ukrainian wine all the more poignant.

Українське вино

Wine tourism thrives on stories, and Ukraine’s story today is one of courage and a determination to remain part of the world’s vinous dialogue. Burgundy heard that story.



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Photo: Aleksandra Minenko-Decamps 

This summer, Burgundy – that intricate mosaic of climats, limestone and centuries‑old savoir‑faire – welcomed a group of Ukrainian winemakers whose presence felt both symbolic and quietly momentous. Their visit to Burgundy was part of a professional tour organised by Drinks+, guided by Aleksandra Minenko‑Decamps  –  Wine Travel Awards ambassador and one of the top […]

Украина