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Kateryna Yushchenko, DipWSET, a wine journalist and interviewer – and a nominee of the Wine Travel Awards 2025–2026 – conducted an exclusive interview with David Adelsheim in 2026. This article is based on that conversation, with all quotations taken directly from it. The Drinks+ editorial team was particularly interested in hearing Adelsheim’s reflections on the eve of the Global Wine Tourism Day, an initiative launched by our media group, which will take place on 17 June in Bourgogne and will include masterclasses dedicated to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

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There are people in every industry who build empires, and there are people who build foundations. David Adelsheim belongs to the second, rarer category. Over more than five decades in the Willamette Valley, he has done something that very few winemakers anywhere in the world have managed: he helped create not just a winery, but an entire wine region’s identity – and he did it by insisting, stubbornly and quietly, that everyone around him could rise together.

I first met David Adelsheim in London – one of those connections that, in the wine world, feels less like chance and more like inevitability. Our conversation began there and continued at Wine Paris, where the interview that forms the backbone of this article took place.

When I sat down with Adelsheim, I told him that some people compare him to Robert Mondavi. He smiled at that, neither accepting nor rejecting the comparison. In truth, the parallel is both apt and misleading. Like Mondavi, Adelsheim is a visionary who saw what others could not. But where Mondavi built a brand that became synonymous with Napa, Adelsheim built something more diffuse and, arguably, more durable: a culture of collaboration that made the Willamette Valley a world-class name in wine.

His story is not one of grand gestures but of deliberate choices – some of them productive mistakes, as he calls them – that accumulated over decades into something extraordinary.

The Lesson of the Weeds The Willamette Valley of the early 1970s was, as Adelsheim himself puts it, the wild west. There was no established roadmap, no manual for growing Pinot Noir in this corner of the Pacific Northwest. The pioneers – and Adelsheim was among the very first – were improvising, reading the wrong books, and learning from the soil beneath their feet, often the hard way.

I asked him about his most significant productive mistake from those early years. He didn’t hesitate.

“A fairly big mistake we made at the beginning was we didn’t understand how important weeds were. When we planted the vines, we left the weeds in, and then the weeds grew much more than the vines grew, and we lost most of the vines.” – David Adelsheim.

It sounds simple – almost naive – but that initial failure with weed management became one of the defining lessons of Oregon viticulture. The young vines, starved of water and light by the unchecked weeds around them, simply couldn’t survive. The first instinct was to swing to the opposite extreme: clean cultivation, stripping everything away. Over the years, though, Adelsheim and his peers found a middle path, one that would eventually align with the modern language of sustainability.

“We’re trying more and more to leave the weeds there, but you can’t do it when the vines themselves have no source of water, and the water from the vine is being sucked away by all the weeds.” –  David Adelsheim.

I suggested that perhaps the vine should struggle. He corrected me immediately, with the quiet authority of someone who has thought about this for fifty years.

“The vine shouldn’t struggle. Particularly when it’s that young. It has to get established and it has to live. It’s got to prosper. And to a certain extent, we were reading books written by amateurs and not about viticulture.” – David Adelsheim.

That last line stayed with me. Reading books about amateurs and not about viticulture  – it’s a remarkably honest admission from a man who is now considered one of the foremost authorities on the subject. But it also reveals something essential about the Oregon wine story: these were not corporate entities executing a business plan. These were individuals with a romantic attachment to the land, learning in real time, making mistakes that would become the region’s wisdom.

The weed problem taught Adelsheim something that now sits at the heart of his philosophy: you want to preserve the soil’s ability to let the vines grow on their own, without irrigation, without artificial intervention. You want balance. Finding that balance, he admits freely, took decades of trial and error.

“You really want to preserve the ability of the vines to grow on their own. Trying to find that balance in the beginning, we didn’t know what we were doing.” – David Adelsheim.

The Radical Act of Collaboration If you ask anyone in the international wine trade what makes the Willamette Valley different, they will eventually arrive at the same word: collaboration. It is the region’s defining trait, and David Adelsheim is, more than anyone, the person who enshrined it.

In most wine regions, the default mode is competition. You guard your techniques, you promote your label, you differentiate at the expense of your neighbour. The Willamette Valley went the other way –  and it didn’t happen by accident.

I asked Adelsheim why, in those early years, he didn’t simply build his own brand in isolation. The Steamboat Pinot Conference, the shared technical knowledge, the collective promotion – where did the instinct for all of this come from?

“My guess is that the collaborative idea came, to a certain extent, from Chuck Coury, from Dick Erath. Those two in particular were, in very different ways, really promoting the idea that collaboration will get us much further than if we work separately.” –  David Adelsheim.

(Both Coury and Erath were UC Davis graduates who arrived in the Willamette Valley in the mid-1960s and are widely regarded, alongside David Lett, as the founding fathers of Oregon wine. Coury – the theoretician – built the intellectual case that the valley’s climate mirrored Burgundy and Alsace, and famously brought in his own Pinot Noir clone, allegedly smuggled from France. Erath – the practical pioneer – proved the concept was commercially viable, producing his first vintage from a garage in 1969 and later building one of Oregon’s first major brands in the Dundee Hills.)

Adelsheim didn’t just absorb this idea – he became its most consistent and vocal champion for the next half century. And when he talks about it now, there’s no uncertainty in his voice. He knows it worked.

“I still think that collaboration is, in fact, the thing that defines the Willamette Valley as different from other places. And why, sixty years on, Willamette Valley is well-known around the world and other places that started at the same time, even earlier, are less well-known – because the winemakers, the winegrowers, did things on their own, but not collaboratively.” – David Adelsheim.

Then he offered what might be the most elegant definition of collaboration I’ve ever heard in any industry:

“What is collaboration? It means thinking of other businesses as a means of increasing visibility, not increasing competition.” – David Adelsheim.

It’s a deceptively simple idea, but executing it requires an ego rare in winemaking — or, more precisely, a certain kind of ego, one secure enough to see a neighbour’s success as your own. Adelsheim has this quality in abundance. When I mentioned that everywhere I go in the wine world – London, Paris, the trade fairs – people point to him as the person who knows everything about Oregon, he simply noted, with characteristic understatement, that Adelsheim Vineyard may not always be the first winery someone seeks out, but they are always among the handful that perform.

“We always come out well. We may not be the winery that somebody seeks out, but we’re certainly among the handful of wineries that always, always perform.” – David Adelsheim.

There’s a book he wants to write – about the specifics of what collaboration means and how the Willamette Valley adopted it as a founding principle. He isn’t sure he’ll get to it. I hope he does. The wine world needs that book.

Clones: The Burgundy Connection One of David Adelsheim’s most consequential contributions to American winemaking is also one of the most technical: the introduction of the Dijon clones. It is a subject that can sound dry to outsiders but, in the world of Pinot Noir, it is the equivalent of a revolution.

In the 1970s, Oregon had access to a very limited number of vine clones, mostly sourced from California. The options were narrow. Adelsheim, who had spent time studying in Burgundy, noticed something critical: the Chardonnay clones there were ripening two to three weeks earlier than the clone they were using in Oregon. For a cool-climate region where every week of growing season matters, this was transformative information.

“I saw the Chardonnay clones in Burgundy and realized they were picking them two or three weeks earlier than the clone that we had from California. I thought, we have to have that clone of Chardonnay. And at the same time, of course, the Pinot clones.” – David Adelsheim

By importing the Dijon clones – Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – Adelsheim didn’t just expand the genetic toolkit available to Oregon winemakers. He gave the region a palette. Where before there were two clones of Pinot Noir, suddenly there were seven or eight, each with subtly different characteristics, each responding differently to Oregon’s specific soils and microclimates.

But here is what matters most: the goal was never imitation. I pressed Adelsheim on this point  –whether the temptation existed to simply replicate the Burgundian style using Burgundian plant material. His answer was characteristically thoughtful. It’s hard to fully remember what they were thinking, he said, but the intent was always to use the clones to discover what Oregon itself could produce, not to copy someone else’s answer.

Today, the Willamette Valley is one of the most specialized wine regions in the New World. As Adelsheim points out, it is a place where roughly 70% of production is a single variety –  Pinot Noir. “That doesn’t exist in the New World,” he says. “We’re the only place that really is that specialized.” This concentration is not a limitation. It is a declaration of identity.

Three Soils, One Mountain If collaboration is the philosophical heart of Adelsheim’s approach, then soil is its physical one. And it is here, talking about the Chehalem Mountains, that you see the fire in him burn brightest.

Adelsheim Vineyard’s holdings are concentrated entirely in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, and this is not an accident. It is a deliberate choice, because the Chehalem Mountains offer something almost uniquely extraordinary: three entirely different soil types within a single appellation.

“The three soil types – the loess, basalt, and the marine sediment – are entirely different from each other, and yet they’re all in this one AVA, this one appellation. We really focus on showing people that the soil is critical and it makes a critical difference to the wine.” – David Adelsheim.

Loess – the fine, wind-blown sediment deposited during the ice ages. Basalt – the ancient volcanic rock. Marine sediment – the remnants of a sea floor from millions of years ago. Each produces a fundamentally different expression of Pinot Noir, and Adelsheim has structured his entire winemaking program around revealing these differences. He has single-vineyard wines from each soil type, designed not as trophies but as demonstrations.

“I’m not sure that any other winery is as focused on site expression as we are. It’s not that they aren’t focused on site generally, but to be so specific, to have single vineyards that represent one soil and to differentiate three of them – there’s no other AVA with three different soils.” – David Adelsheim.

This is not marketing language. When Adelsheim says he can show you three single vineyards from three different soils and let you taste the difference in your glass, he means it literally. It is the culmination of everything he has learned – from the weeds that killed his first vines to the Burgundian clones he brought home to the collaborative spirit he championed. All of it converges in these three bottles from three soils on one mountain.

“The reality is, the thing that really distinguishes us more and more is the location of our vineyards.” – David Adelsheim.

The Architect’s Legacy David Adelsheim is not a man who speaks in grand statements about legacy. He is more comfortable talking about loess and basalt, about vine spacing and clone selection, about the specific technical details that separate a good wine from a great one. But legacy is what he has built, whether he is comfortable with the word or not.

He helped create a wine region that the world now takes seriously. He did it not by dominating but by collaborating, not by imitating but by listening to what the land was telling him. He made mistakes – with weeds, with cultivation, with the inevitable miscalculations of anyone working without a map – and he turned every one of those mistakes into knowledge that he then shared freely with his neighbors.

There is a book he wants to write about collaboration. There are single-vineyard Pinot Noirs that continue to demonstrate the astonishing diversity of the Chehalem Mountains. There is a winery that, as he says, always performs. But perhaps the truest measure of David Adelsheim’s legacy is this: when you ask anyone in the wine world about Oregon, his name is the first one spoken. Not as a brand. As a person. As the quiet architect who built the house that everyone else now lives in.

And he’s still building. I’m grateful for that first meeting in London, and to the halls of Wine Paris for giving us the space to have this conversation. Some interviews are about collecting quotes. This one felt more like witnessing a man take quiet stock of a life’s work – and deciding, without any fanfare, that there is still more to be done.

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Kateryna Yushchenko, DipWSET, a wine journalist and interviewer – and a nominee of the Wine Travel Awards 2025–2026 – conducted an exclusive interview with David Adelsheim in 2026. This article is based on that conversation, with all quotations taken directly from it. The Drinks+ editorial team was particularly interested in hearing Adelsheim’s reflections on the eve of […]

For quite a while, ProWein was considered the world’s largest international trade fair for wine and spirits. This year, however, things look a little different. Long before the fair opened, organizers had already announced a smaller number of exhibitors and visitors, along with a reduced exhibition space.This was explained as an effective optimization and even a necessity to reduce the distance between exhibitors’ booths. The focus was also placed on quality rather than quantity.

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So how did it go? Here are the numbers from the organizers: ProWein 2026 hosted 3,400 exhibitors from 63 countries. The fair was attended by 31,000 trade professionals from 105 countries. Special attention was given to buyers from key import markets, such as Germany, Belgium, the Netherlands, the Nordic countries, and the USA. This approach was strengthened by the updated and well-received Hosted Buyer program.

Did ProWein manage to maintain its status as the most outstanding event in the global wine and spirits industry? D+ correspondent Victoria Makarova spoke with exhibitors and visitors at the fair to find out.

“Change or die”

ProWein 2026 didn’t exactly live up to that dramatic motto, which is good news. The changes felt tentative rather than revolutionary, like the first steps in a process that might evolve into something bigger in the future. Most of the visible updates this year were external: a sleek rebranding that seems to be aimed at a younger audience; an expanded concierge service for VIP visitors; efforts to improve business networking through the revamped “Fair Match” app; and a push to make navigation around the fair more intuitive and user-friendly. Prices for stands and other exhibitor services remained high, and according to many participants, this will be a major factor when deciding whether to return next year.

Educational innovations

One standout was the expanded educational program. The new ProWein Agora, organized by the A2Wine & Things Agency, offered short, dynamic presentations, panel discussions and keynote talks from industry visionaries. Topics ranged from pressing market issues to hot-button debates: how do you sell wine in established, mature markets? Does fine wine demand new sales strategies, and how does it play out for prestigious regions like Bordeaux? What does the future hold for wine tourism, and how does it impact sales? How are AI and social media shaping consumer preferences? And what lessons can winemakers learn from success stories in other beverage categories?

The one downside: the sessions were mostly attended by journalists, bloggers, and marketers — people already deeply embedded in the industry. The winemakers themselves, who must make the critical decisions to navigate this challenging period, were tied up at their stands and couldn’t join the discussions or gain inspiration from the insights shared.

“Logistical madness”

The traditional local transport strike in Düsseldorf, which this year hit on the last day of ProWein, surprised no one, though it did manage to annoy a few. Germans, accustomed to such trials, didn’t let it stop them. Andreas Brensing, Chief Wine Consultant at the Wein Kompetenz Center of the REWE Group Buying network, called the situation “logistical madness.” The shuttle service helped a bit, but it didn’t exactly silence the grumbling from the foreign participants. “I, by the way, rented a bike and cruised along the Rhine,” he wrote in his LinkedIn post. “If there’s another strike next year, the bike path from Cologne to Düsseldorf is quite pleasant. I even have a second bike if anyone wants to join me…”

The best or the calmest?

It seems that the attendees and visitors from Germany were particularly and patriotically satisfied by the Messe this year. Their social media posts are unanimously positive. Many described ProWein 2026 as more “cozy” and “relaxed.”

“Despite the challenging market situation, the mood was unexpectedly good. Not too crowded, but not empty either,” comments Brensing. “A lot of people doesn’t necessarily mean good business, as one producer wisely told me on Tuesday. My take: ProWein is no longer the world’s largest wine fair, and perhaps that’s a good opportunity. It can now reinvent itself. Innovation often comes under pressure in tough times.”

Dr. Matthias Neske, wine expert and analyst from Bamberg, Bavaria, sees it similarly: ProWein 2026 reflected the overall diversity of the wine industry. There were fewer “casual” visitors, but more major buyers, and strong deals were struck. “In some halls or at certain booths, without the usual foot traffic or the ‘magnet effect,’ things looked a bit sad, but that’s always been the case,” says Neske. “The fair’s more compact format, thanks to fewer exhibitors, definitely worked in its favor. In terms of offerings, ProWein still remains thoroughly international.”

“It was a good fair for us,” says Krister Bengtsson, founder of the Star Wine List, a well-established international platform for discovering great wine bars and wine restaurants. “We knew from the start it would be quieter than in previous years, but the slower pace actually made it easier to have meaningful partnership talks. I was glad to take part in the Agora discussion panels. We’ll see what next year brings, but with Wine Paris also getting very popular and busy I believe there’s space in the market for both fairs.”

Winemakers’ takeaways

Quantity doesn’t always mean quality, as winemakers and distillers at the Wines of Ukraine stand were once again reminded at ProWein 2026.

Svitlana Tsybak, CEO of Beykush Winery and Chair of the Association of Craft Winemakers of Ukraine, was pleased with the outcome: “It was a good ProWein for us. We had a steady flow of visitors, mostly from the Nordic markets, as well as the UK and Poland. We also held many meetings with buyers from the Netherlands – that was particularly encouraging.”

Nataliia Burlachenko, CEO of Big Wines and 46 Parallel Wine Group, notes that this year’s exhibition felt calmer than previous editions: “Most of our conversations were with existing contacts. Among the new ones were importers who already work with other Ukrainian producers and are looking to expand their portfolios. We felt growing interest from our neighboring countries – Poland, Hungary, Moldova, Romania. I hope this kind of communication will help strengthen ties between us.”

Natalia believes it is crucial for Ukrainian producers to take part in major industry events like ProWein: “Our presence at this year’s joint Wines of Ukraine stand opens the door to international dialogue and collaboration, giving producers a space to articulate their position, present their vision, and highlight the identity of Ukrainian wine, from local to international varieties.”

Alina Tintulova, co-owner of Villa Tinta, shares her impressions: “Compared with previous years, the fair felt almost half the size. Still, this time we saw more owners of specialty wine shops and enotecas from Germany – they’re actively looking for something new, authentic, and high-quality from Romania, Moldova, Bulgaria, Ukraine, and Georgia. We also appreciated the chance to speak calmly and constructively with our importers from Sweden and Norway and to introduce them to colleagues at the stand: consolidated shipments are far more efficient for both importers and producers. Overall, the three days were dynamic.”

For the Odesa-based brands of still and sparkling wines French Boulevard and Odesa, ProWein 2026 was their debut appearance – and a valuable one. “The stand drew a wide range of visitors, from importers and distributors to HoReCa representatives. We made several genuinely promising contacts for future cooperation. The overall organization felt strong, and international interest was clear. Our impressions are very positive – it’s an excellent platform for growth and new opportunities,” says the company’s marketing manager, Elyzaveta Gryntsova.

Some participants from other countries also describe this year’s experience as positive. “ProWein today is no longer about trying to taste everything,” reflects Roman Rotarov, President of the Moldovan Sommelier Association. “It’s about understanding whom you want to move forward with. What matters most is that the quality of dialogue has improved. Less noise and fewer crowds, more substance. Fewer random tastings, more meaningful meetings.”

The buyers’ perspective

For Yevgenia Nikolaichuk, wine projects manager at Silpo, Ukraine’s most progressive and significant retail chain, this year’s ProWein was one of the most pleasant yet: no queues, easy access to stands, and the ability to speak with producers without even having to book a meeting. But there was a downside. “Unlike in previous years, the number of producers was significantly smaller, which reduced the event’s effectiveness for us,” she says.

Olga Zoria, co-founder of Bandura Selection wine agency, also appreciated the increased breathing room this year. “For buyers, everything was convenient. But some major players noted that if you’re looking for something new, you’re unlikely to find it, since most of the exhibitors were already well-known producers with the budgets to participate. Even so, many buyers appreciated the chance to talk calmly with everyone they were interested in, and many visitors said they’re ready to return.”

For participating winemakers, however, the picture looks a bit different. “Spanish and Italian producers aren’t very eager to come back – which isn’t surprising, since they have their own major international fairs,” Olga explains. “Friends of mine in the non-alcoholic segment said it was good, but the prices were far too high. And everyone, really, is talking about the prices.” In her opinion, ProWein remains highly professional and sharply focused on what actually matters in the industry. “But if winemakers stop coming because of the high costs, buyers won’t come either. This is something the organizers need to rethink.”

Like many other visitors, Olga believes Düsseldorf has become a debatable location for an event of such international scale, especially given the rise of major wine fairs in tourist capitals like Paris and Barcelona.

In short, both ProWein and the industry as a whole are headed for further change. The challenges remain serious, and we sincerely wish the organizers the clarity to absorb this year’s lessons, the courage to make tough decisions, and the success needed to shape a renewed format for the world’s leading wine and spirits event.

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For quite a while, ProWein was considered the world’s largest international trade fair for wine and spirits. This year, however, things look a little different. Long before the fair opened, organizers had already announced a smaller number of exhibitors and visitors, along with a reduced exhibition space.This was explained as an effective optimization and even […]

DISCOVER UKRAINE 2026 – Wine + Spirit Grand Tasting will take place in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, in August 2026, becoming the first trade professional exhibition featuring Ukrainian wines and alcoholic beverages ever held in the country. Drinks+ is the exclusive media partner of the event.

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The event is organized by GODAI SDN. BHD., represented by its Founder & CEO Solomiia Begun, in collaboration with The Wine Academy (Kuala Lumpur) and the Ukrainian Vine & Wine Association (UVWA, Kyiv).

This two-day Trade Professional event is designed to highlight the discovery of Ukrainian products, which provide diversity, quality, and export potential of Ukrainian wines and spirits to the Southeast Asian market.

 

 

The Expo will bring together leading Ukrainian producers and welcome a carefully curated audience of trade professionals, including:
• importers and distributors,
• HoReCa representatives,
• restaurateurs and hoteliers,
• sommeliers and beverage managers, from Malaysia, Thailand, Singapore, and Indonesia, with expected participation from Vietnam and Cambodia.

The event will be held with the official support of the Embassy of Ukraine in Malaysia, highlighting its role in promoting Ukrainian wine and spirits as part of the country’s economic and cultural diplomacy in the region.

Registration

• Please find attached the official registration form: https://forms.gle/gc9hQyHaq88yrWo56
• All applications will be carefully reviewed, and successful applicants will be notified by email.

Contact

For further information, please contact:
wineacademyinfo@gmail.com
WhatsApp: +3 8067 918 24 74 Solomiia

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DISCOVER UKRAINE 2026 – Wine + Spirit Grand Tasting will take place in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, in August 2026, becoming the first trade professional exhibition featuring Ukrainian wines and alcoholic beverages ever held in the country. Drinks+ is the exclusive media partner of the event. The event is organized by GODAI SDN. BHD., represented by […]

From 16 to 18 May 2026, the historic Hofburg Vienna in the heart of the Austrian capital will once again host VieVinum, Austria’s largest and most prestigious international wine festival. Held every two years, the event has long been one of the country’s key platforms for presenting Austrian winemaking to the world and an important meeting point for producers, buyers, sommeliers, importers, and specialised media.

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VieVinum 2026 will bring together hundreds of exhibitors in Vienna, including wineries, trading companies, and industry professionals, all set to showcase the finest examples of contemporary Austrian wine. The festival traditionally combines high-level tastings, professional networking, and discussions of current market trends.

Founded in 1998, VieVinum has become the central showcase for Austrian wine for an international audience and a powerful instrument for supporting the country’s wine exports. It is also especially worth noting that VieVinum is a nominee for the Wine Travel Awards in the Enogastronomic Events / Magnet of the Region category.

The organisers are also placing strong emphasis on an extensive supporting programme: in addition to the main exhibition, guests can look forward to specialised tastings, professional seminars, and the prestigious Star Wine List of the Year ceremony.

The School of Wine programme adds to the vibrancy of VieVinum, bringing together young and unconventional voices with the great legends of winemaking history. Wines from alternative cultivation and production methods are explored alongside traditional benchmarks.

The Zone Zero offers a refreshing break, showcasing the market’s most exciting alcohol-free beverages and reflecting contemporary consumer trends.

The scale and influence of the festival were clearly demonstrated by the results of its previous edition: VieVinum 2024 set a new record by welcoming 16,000 visitors from 58 countries. This success once again confirmed the event’s status as one of the strongest international platforms for promoting Austrian wine and reinforcing its standing on the global stage.

On May 16, 2026, the Eurovision Song Contest (ESC) final will take place at Vienna’s Stadthalle. This timing overlap with VieVinum’s opening day has the potential to inspire new audiences to discover Austrian wine.

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From 16 to 18 May 2026, the historic Hofburg Vienna in the heart of the Austrian capital will once again host VieVinum, Austria’s largest and most prestigious international wine festival. Held every two years, the event has long been one of the country’s key platforms for presenting Austrian winemaking to the world and an important […]

The wine world has suffered an irreparable loss. We have lost not only a gifted consultant and winemaker, but a true visionary – a figure whose influence on contemporary wine is difficult to overstate. On 20 March, in Bordeaux, Michel Rolland died at the age of 78, leaving behind one of the brightest and most influential legacies on the global wine stage.

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His name became synonymous with oenological mastery. For decades, he helped shape the style of many of the most acclaimed wines of his era, consulting for hundreds of estates across continents and contributing to the creation of cult labels – both client projects (Le Pin, Kirwan, Angélus, Ausone, Smith Haut‑Laffite, Latour Martillac in France; Miolo Family in Brazil; Ornellaia in Italy) and his own wines from Bordeaux, Argentina and South Africa, united under the Rolland Collection umbrella. Yet perhaps his greatest gift was the ability to reveal greatness where few expected it: in modest terroirs, overlooked vineyards, and regions still searching for their voice (Saints Hills in Croatia; Telish Wine Cellar and Jair Agopian in Bulgaria).

His approach – late harvesting, generous fruit, suppleness and depth – was not always universally embraced. At times his judgements seemed uncompromising (for instance, we struggled with his scepticism toward the Greek variety Agiorgitiko, which has since demonstrated – even to Michel Rolland himself – that it had been underestimated). But he remained consistent and persuasive. He believed deeply in the power of ripeness, in the clarity of character, in the idea that wine must be not only technically accomplished but emotionally resonant.

One of his long‑time colleagues recalls: “I first met Michel in June 1985. Since then, we spent decades tasting and debating wine. I did not always share his affection for a generous, high‑alcohol style, but I always admired his clarity of thought, his energy, and that famous Cheshire‑cat smile. I was looking forward to seeing him again in April, when I would return to Bordeaux to taste the 2025 vintage. His perspective on a new Bordeaux harvest was always worth hearing.”

A son of Bordeaux who opened the world beyond Bordeaux

Born in Libourne and raised at the family estate, Château Le Bon Pasteur, Rolland would become one of the world’s most renowned “flying winemakers”. His work demonstrated that great wine is not the exclusive domain of Bordeaux. Argentina, in particular, owes him a profound debt for helping unlock the potential of Malbec and elevating the country’s winemaking reputation to new heights. Spain, too, benefited from his vision.

In 2010, he launched the Rolland & Galarreta project with Javier Galarreta, aiming to introduce French – and international – audiences to the finest expressions of Spanish wine, from Rioja and Priorat to Rueda and Jerez. The white Rueda R&G, remembered by many, was a compelling reminder that Rolland’s talent extended beyond red wines. The collections from Priorat, Rioja and Jerez became worthy ambassadors of “wine Spain” on the world stage.

Michel Rolland (24.11.1947 – 20.03.2026) 

His name will remain forever inscribed in the history of wine.

Condolences from Drinks+

The Drinks+ editorial team extends its deepest sympathies to Dany Rolland, his daughters, the entire Bodega Rolland team who worked alongside him, and all who had the honour of knowing Michel Rolland.

The wine world is quieter today. Yet the legacy he leaves behind – profound, enduring, inexhaustible – will continue to inspire winemakers and wine lovers for generations to come.

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The wine world has suffered an irreparable loss. We have lost not only a gifted consultant and winemaker, but a true visionary – a figure whose influence on contemporary wine is difficult to overstate. On 20 March, in Bordeaux, Michel Rolland died at the age of 78, leaving behind one of the brightest and most […]

Drinks+ spoke with Eduard Gorodetskyi, founder of the My Wine brand, on a day marked by an unusual coincidence: St Valentine’s Day and Trifon Zarezan, the traditional celebration of winegrowers and winemakers. “Both are about love,” he notes, admitting that he would have preferred to spend the day among his own vines – a plot beside his winery in Roksolany, Odesa region, already chosen, though the war has delayed the planting.

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When creating MyWine, Gorodetskyi deliberately combined grapes from different regions: his future estate vineyard will offer creative freedom, while southern Bessarabia provides the varieties he needs. His winemaking journey has followed a clear progression – from still wines to sparkling, and then to barrel-aged releases. His first Chardonnay Reserve earned 90 points at the Decanter World Wine Awards, while the barrel-aged Cabernet Sauvignon took two years to refine. With its release, the Reserve line is now complete. Next come high-end, limited edition wines: individual blends of classic and local varieties.

MyWine is already exported to the UK (via The Wine Society), Japan, Estonia and Germany. “The key is for a potential partner to taste the wine. After that, it speaks for itself,” he says.

The portfolio also includes products unique to Ukraine: non alcoholic wines, long-aged brandies and a grape juice. The latter – My Juice – is a deeply personal project: a kosher juice made from 100% Saperavi, reflecting the winemaker’s Jewish and Georgian heritage.

Gorodetskyi describes himself as an adherent of the wine life philosophy. He combines a senior leadership role at Bayadera Group with his own craft project – a balance that, he says, gives him both drive and harmony.

“I make wine because I simply can’t not make it,” he says.

His message today is clear: believe in Ukrainian wine. “Ukrainian wine is the quintessence of our land and our soul. We are restoring people’s faith in Ukrainian winemaking. There are more of us every year, and the wines are getting better.”

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+3806733371 70
+3806717401 73
inna.mywine@gmail.com
www.mywineukraine.com

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Drinks+ spoke with Eduard Gorodetskyi, founder of the My Wine brand, on a day marked by an unusual coincidence: St Valentine’s Day and Trifon Zarezan, the traditional celebration of winegrowers and winemakers. “Both are about love,” he notes, admitting that he would have preferred to spend the day among his own vines – a plot […]

ProWein 2026 international wine and spirits fair opens its doors in Düsseldorf, Germany, again on March 15–17. Wines of Ukraine will join more than 4,000 exhibitors at this key industry event with a national stand located in Hall3. What Wines of Ukraine expect from ProWein 2026?

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This year, the Ukrainian stand will feature both debutants and wineries with many years of experience participating in ProWein, presenting their wines and spirits to the international audience.

SHABO, one of Ukraine’s best-known wineries, has been representing the country at major international trade fairs since 2011. “We were the first Ukrainian wine company to regularly participate in both ProWein and Vinexpo. From the very beginning, our mission has remained unchanged: to tell the world about the quality and unique character of Ukrainian wine and to help Ukraine take its rightful place on the global wine map. We have never deviated from this mission and continue to move forward consistently,” says Giorgi Iukuridze, co-founder of SHABO. The winery is an integral part of the Wines of Ukraine brand, so it is only natural that, in addition to their own large stand, SHABO will also be represented at the national booth.

Pilot’s Wines from Danubian Bessarabia were introduced to Ukrainian consumers in 2023 and quickly received enthusiastic feedback at Ukrainian wine fairs and tastings, as well as high praise on the international competition circuit — including two bronze medals at Decanter 2025 for their Merlot 2023 and Cabernet 2023. This year marks Pilot’s Wines’ first appearance at ProWein.

“For many years we attended the Düsseldorf fair as visitors from the wine trade and have always regarded it as one of the industry’s most important international events. When our own Ukrainian wine brand was launched, we realised that presenting it in an international context together with our colleagues at the Wines of Ukraine stand was the logical step. For us, this is a new stage and a new experience. We expect professional dialogue, new contacts, partnerships, and the opportunity to present modern Ukrainian winemaking to international experts and buyers,” says Olena Syzarova, the winery’s representative.

Here’s a look at the Ukrainian wineries and spirits producers featured at the national stand of ProWein 2027:

Beykush Winery (Mykolaiv region)
Villa Tinta (Danubian Bessarabia)
Big Wines (Kyiv region)
SHABO (Odesa region)
46 Parallel (Odesa region)
Odesos (Odesa region)
Pilot’s Wines (Danubian Bessarabia)
ODESA (Odesa region)
French Boulevard (Odesa region)
Artwinery (Odesa region)
Honey Badger (Kyiv region).

“International wine professionals are paying increasing attention to indigenous and authentic grape varieties,” says Victoria Agromakova, Wines of Ukraine ambassador and founder of the Wines & Spirits Ukraine expo. “That is why our producers’ portfolios include a wide range of wines made from the white varieties — indigenous Telti Kuruk and local Sukholymanskyi, as well as our flagship red grape, Odesa Black.”

This year’s Wines of Ukraine stand will also feature a strong selection of sparkling wines, reflecting the global trend of growing consumption in this category. Among them, Odesa-based producers French Boulevard and ODESA will present their sparkling wines at ProWein for the first time. 

Artwinery, one of Ukraine’s best-known producers of traditional-method sparkling wines, will also participate again. After Russia’s occupation of Bakhmut, where the company’s production facilities and unique underground cellars were located, Artwinery has managed to revive its production in the Odesa region — rising, like a phoenix, from the ashes. At the Wines of Ukraine stand, the company will present white, rosé and red sparkling wines.

According to preliminary estimates, this year’s ProWein will be somewhat smaller than last year’s event, with seven exhibition halls and around 42,000 visitors expected. But Svitlana Tsybak, head of the Association of Craft Winemakers of Ukraine, CEO of Beykush Winery and Wines of Ukraine ambassador, sees this as an advantage: “For us, the quality of contacts matters more than the quantity,” she says. “In my view, a more compact format gives exhibitors more opportunities to speak with buyers, while professional visitors can devote more time to producers that truly interest them.”

The Wines of Ukraine team invites visitors of ProWein 2027 to stop by the Ukrainian national stand and discover wines and spirits with a truly Ukrainian character.

When: March 15–17
Where: Messe Düsseldorf, Hall 3, Stand A40

We wish Ukrainian winemakers great success and many new contracts.

See you at ProWein!

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ProWein 2026 international wine and spirits fair opens its doors in Düsseldorf, Germany, again on March 15–17. Wines of Ukraine will join more than 4,000 exhibitors at this key industry event with a national stand located in Hall3. What Wines of Ukraine expect from ProWein 2026? This year, the Ukrainian stand will feature both debutants […]

In the context of a full-scale war, the issues of economic recovery and support for local communities have become particularly important for Ukraine. One response to these challenges has been the emergence of local initiatives that combine a partnership-based approach, international support, and active community participation. This is exactly the story of the experience of the Public Union “Association of Craft Winemakers of the Black Sea Region”, headed by Georgy Molchanov.

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“For us, the Roots of Peace project is not just another initiative, but a logical continuation of many years of cooperation with international partners. We began with the demining of agricultural lands together with the non-profit organization Roots of Peace from California. This was followed by a restoration program with the participation of Rotary International, and today we are working in partnership with the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP). Even in times of war, this consistent support has made it possible not only to return land to cultivation, but also to revive vineyards and orchards in Mykolaiv Oblast. We are not stopping there: our next step is to create a cluster together with all partners and scientific institutions, where knowledge, experience, and resources will be combined for the development of the entire region. Through such partnerships, we see that true community recovery is not only about technology or funding, but about people, land, and a shared belief in the future,” emphasizes the head of the Association, Georgy Molchanov.

The Association operates in southern Ukraine, supporting small winegrowers and winemakers, fostering cooperation, and implementing sustainable agricultural practices. Its activities focus not only on the production of craft products, but also on restoring the economic potential of communities affected by the war.

An important stage in this process was the implementation of the project “Roots of Peace: Mechanization for the Growth and Sustainability of the Farmers’ Cooperative”, carried out in the Radsadivska community of Mykolaiv Oblast. The project was implemented within the framework of the Enhanced Partnership for Sustainable Recovery initiative, led by UNDP in Ukraine with financial support from the Government of Sweden through Sida, in cooperation with the Mykolaiv Regional Military Administration and local authorities.

“When we first arrived at the demined fields, it was obvious that without modern equipment, farmers simply would not be able to cultivate the land effectively. Mechanization became a key factor in restoring production,” explains Georgy. After part of the agricultural land had been demined, the community faced a new challenge: the lack of modern equipment needed for the efficient cultivation of vineyards and orchards. The Roots of Peace project aimed to address this issue by strengthening the production capacity of the farmers’ cooperative.

As part of the project, the cooperative received a garden tractor with attachments, including a sprayer, mulcher-mower, and soil milling machine. In addition, cooperative members received training in the safe and effective operation of the equipment. This enabled the cultivation of more than 10 hectares of vineyards and orchards, increased labor productivity, and ensured the timely completion of agricultural work.

“It was important for us not only to provide the equipment, but also to teach people how to use it safely and effectively. Investments in knowledge always have a greater impact than equipment alone,” adds Georgy. The project also included an important social component: women, veterans, and internally displaced people were involved in training and work, contributing to expanded economic opportunities for vulnerable groups and strengthening social cohesion within the community.

Today, the activities of the Association of Craft Winemakers of the Black Sea Region serve as an example of how partnerships between civil society organizations, local authorities, and international donors can generate long-term solutions for regional recovery. The Roots of Peace project demonstrates that investments in equipment, knowledge, and people form the foundation of sustainable development and can be replicated in other communities across Ukraine.

“Our task is to show that even in wartime, it is possible to build a sustainable local economy. This is a story about people, land, and partnership,” concludes Georgy Molchanov.

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In the context of a full-scale war, the issues of economic recovery and support for local communities have become particularly important for Ukraine. One response to these challenges has been the emergence of local initiatives that combine a partnership-based approach, international support, and active community participation. This is exactly the story of the experience of […]

In this special edition of Drinks+, dedicated to the 10th anniversary of the Public Union Ukrsadvinprom, we present an exclusive interview with Volodymyr Pechko, the head of Ukraine’s leading association of winegrowers and winemakers. Our conversation explores the organisation’s key achievements, international initiatives, the development of the Wines of Ukraine brand, support for producers during wartime, and a broader vision for the future of the industry — its challenges and opportunities. It is an important reflection on a decade of transformation and a look ahead at what the next chapter of Ukrainian wine may hold.

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Ukrsadvinprom marks its 10th anniversary this year. Which changes and achievements of this decade do you consider the most significant for the industry?

This is the first major milestone for our union, and we want to celebrate it together with our friends and partners. Among the most important achievements, I would highlight several key areas. First, legislative changes and a substantial simplification of conditions for small wineries. The licensing fee was abolished, and producers were allowed to contract accredited laboratories operating in Ukraine. This effectively opened the door to legal production for dozens of new wineries. As a result, the number of small wine enterprises has grown by more than 70% over the past decade. Second, a major victory was the restoration of Ukraine’s membership in the OIV.

We worked on this for several years together with the Ministry of Agrarian Policy and our partners. Third, the creation and development of the Wines of Ukraine brand, which was identified as a strategic priority at the 2019 Wine Congress. 

It is also worth mentioning the expansion of the state support programme in 2021, which for the first time introduced compensation for the purchase of winemaking equipment – a historic step for the sector. Equally important are initiatives aimed at popularisation: the celebration of Winegrower and Winemaker Day, Odesa Black Variety Day, and plans to introduce Sukholymanskyi Variety Day.

Many industry associations in Ukraine are reluctant to disclose their membership numbers – often because there is little to boast about. In your case, the figures speak for themselves. How many members does Ukrsadvinprom have today, and what share of them are winemakers or beverage producers? How has the structure changed in recent years?

Our membership list is open. Today, the union includes around 300 enterprises, of which approximately 70 represent the winegrowing and winemaking sector. In addition, more than ten industry associations are part of Ukrsadvinprom. In practice, about one-third of our members are winemakers. The union also includes specialised research institutions in horticulture, viticulture, and oenology. Initially, in 2016, the organisation operated under the name Ukrsadprom. Later, as more winemaking enterprises joined, we changed the name to Ukrsadvinprom. The first to join were large producers, followed by dozens of craft wineries that believed in our shared lobbying and professional platform.

Which major projects of the union do you consider the most successful in promoting Ukrainian wine internationally?

One of the key initiatives was the development – together with the ITC – of a roadmap for the development of Ukraine’s winegrowing and winemaking sector. As part of this work, study visits were organised to Moldova, Georgia, Armenia, Spain, and France, involving representatives of the Ministry of Agrarian Policy, the Ministry of Economy, and the Verkhovna Rada. These visits helped us form a clear vision of the reforms and legislative changes required.

In 2021, we signed a memorandum with the Ministry of Agrarian Policy outlining ten strategic directions for the sector’s development. One of them was the restoration of Ukraine’s membership in the OIV. The OIV is not a financial institution but a platform for shaping international standards, innovation, and scientific exchange. Membership allows Ukraine to integrate into the global winemaking system at the level of standards, resolutions, and technological developments – a space where scientists and producers from around the world share expertise and innovation.

As for the Wines of Ukraine brand, the decision to create it was made in 2019. A group of wine promoters, donors, and representatives of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs developed the visual identity and compiled historical and export-oriented materials. Shortly afterwards, the first collective stand under the Wines of Ukraine banner – led by Svitlana Tsybak – appeared at ProWein, marking a breakthrough moment for Ukrainian wine. Since then, Ukrsadvinprom has organised tastings of Ukrainian wines at OIV General Assemblies in Jerez de la Frontera, Dijon, and Chisinau, promoting Ukrainian varieties and producers.

Some of the photographs featured in this issue were taken by Arsen Fedosenko – photographer and winemaker – who joined the Ukrainian Armed Forces in the first days of Russia’s invasion and was tragically killed. The war has taken lives, destroyed livelihoods, and reshaped the industry. What support can the union provide in such circumstances?

Arsen Fedosenko was not only a photographer and winemaker – he was a friend to many in the Ukrainian wine community, and a true patriot. Just two weeks before the full-scale invasion, he gifted me a beautiful photoshoot we did at the WINEIDEA winery near Kyiv. That winery was among the first to suffer damage. And soon after, Arsen was gone…

The war has become the most devastating challenge our industry has ever faced. Dozens of enterprises have been damaged or occupied, including: Artwinery (Bakhmut), Tavria Brandy House, Kamyansky Winery, Prince Trubetskoi Winery, Kurin Farm, and producers across Mykolaiv, Kherson, and Zaporizhzhia. A separate tragedy is the loss of historic wine collections – cultural heritage that cannot be restored. The war has affected not only production volumes. With the occupation of the Black Sea regions, Ukraine lost access to maritime logistics – one of the most cost-effective export routes. This has significantly reduced the competitiveness of Ukrainian products. We can no longer export the volumes we once could – and this affects not only wine but horticulture, grain, and other sectors. Ukrsadvinprom participates in working groups on compensation and informs producers about available state and donor support.

How has the war affected the industry in numbers? Which regions suffered the most?

Beyond the occupied enterprises, dozens of wineries and distilleries have been damaged by shelling. For example, Akkerman Distillery (TMAznauri) – a company that paid more than a billion hryvnias annually in taxes and excise duties. Other affected producers include Nyva and Koblevo. The heaviest losses were recorded in Kherson, Donetsk, Zaporizhzhia, and Kharkiv regions. In numerical terms: since 2014, Ukraine has lost around 60,000 hectares of vineyards in occupied Crimea. Since 2022, further significant areas have been lost due to temporary occupation. If in 2021 Ukraine had around 41,000 hectares of vineyards, today fewer than 20,000 hectares remain. But the true losses cannot be measured by a calculator. This is a rupture in our history, traditions, and generational continuity.

The collections of the Artwinery in Bakhmut, the archives of Tavria, the Prince Trubetskoi Winery, and many others – are gone forever. And the most painful loss is human lives. Some wineries were attacked in the first days of the war; vineyard workers were wounded or killed while pruning; some producers lost their winemakers. How can such losses ever be compensated? Still, we try to support businesses wherever possible. Ukrsadvinprom participates in working groups on state support, compensation mechanisms, and benefits for relocated enterprises. We work to ensure producers receive timely information about the assistance available – both from the state and from international donors.

Even so, Ukrainian winemakers have proved to be among the most resilient professionals in the country. How many new wineries have emerged during the war, and what, in your view, motivates people to start winemaking ventures in such difficult times?

Thank you for this question – it allows us to focus on something positive. Indeed, the number of wineries in Ukraine continues to grow. Even in wartime, development has not stopped. People are establishing new enterprises, obtaining licences, expanding the diversity of Ukrainian wine, and presenting it with dignity at domestic festivals and international exhibitions.

Fortunately, this process is irreversible. For many years, Ukraine’s wine sector remained in a state of semi-hibernation, with little development. Small craft wineries did appear, but they operated without licences and remained in the shadows. They were able to emerge from this grey zone thanks to legislative changes – including those we helped to initiate. Today, there are already dozens of such enterprises across the country. In Kyiv region alone, more than ten licensed wineries are now operating. And their number will undoubtedly continue to grow. They will establish family domains, plant new vineyards, and build the foundations of a modern wine culture. The result of this work is the future of Ukrainian wine – a landscape shaped largely by small, strong, and distinctive producers.

How do you assess the new Law of Ukraine “On Grapes, Wine and Viticultural Products”? Which provisions are most important for the sector, and what still requires refinement?

Overall, the assessment of the Law “On Grapes and Viticultural Products” is positive. It does not contradict our core principles, which were outlined in the Memorandum signed with the Ministry of Agrarian Policy and Food. At the same time, certain provisions remain vulnerable. It is important to recognise that the level of state support for viticulture and winemaking in Ukraine is significantly lower than in EU countries. The playing field is not level. Therefore, if we are implementing European legislation and requiring compliance with European regulations, we must also ensure a corresponding – European – level of support for domestic producers. We insist on introducing the same systemic and sufficient support mechanisms for Ukrainian winegrowers and wineries.

What other key steps, in your opinion, are necessary for Ukraine to secure a worthy place on the world wine map?

First and foremost, stable and adequate state financial support is essential. Equally important is a clear export strategy, along with a defined programme of national and regional wine events. We also believe that legislation should allow the advertising of dry wine and the sale of dry wines without time-of-day restrictions. Dry wine is a food product, and moderate consumption has a positive impact on public health – and reduces the risk of alcoholism. This was scientifically demonstrated in the last century by Vasyl Yehorovych Tairov. Another crucial factor is restoring and strengthening consumer trust in Ukrainian wine. Festivals should take place across all regions – from west to east, from north to south. Even during wartime, we must give people opportunities to rest, to feel optimism and mutual support. This helps society recover and maintain the strength needed to continue building our country’s future.

What joint projects does Ukrsadvinprom plan with scientific institutions in Ukraine or Europe? In particular, could you share details about cooperation with the V. Ye. Tairov Institute? Are there plans for new varieties, research, or technologies?

Ukrsadvinprom is a longstanding partner of the V. Ye. Tairov Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking, and we work together systematically. Our collaborations include the promotion of indigenous varieties, the organisation of professional events such as Winegrower and Winemaker Day, Odesa Black Variety Day, and – in the future – a national level Winemaker’s Day.

We also cooperate on raising the professional qualifications of institute staff and integrating them into European and international scientific databases. An important area of work is the reinstatement of varieties previously removed from the state register. Together, we are expanding the range of wines made from Ukrainian grape varieties. The Tairov Institute has been a member of Ukrsadvinprom since 2019, and since then we have jointly implemented numerous initiatives aimed at developing Ukraine’s viticulture and winemaking sector.

Could you elaborate on the joint initiative of Italy, FAO, and the Ministry of Economy of Ukraine to support small winemakers in Odesa region? What is Ukrsadvinprom’s role, and what outcomes do you expect from this programme?

The FAO project “Support for the Viticulture and Winemaking Sector” began in 2021 in western Ukraine — in Zakarpattia, Lviv, Ivano-Frankivsk and several other regions. It later expanded to Ternopil and Volyn, and eventually included the winemaking sector of Odesa region. The support package includes planting new vineyards, developing irrigation systems, and purchasing equipment for wineries. Initial grant assistance ranged from USD 10,000 to 25,000. In some regions, support for berry and orchard producers has already increased to USD 150,000. Ukrsadvinprom works closely with FAO to improve support mechanisms. We are grateful to FAO leadership, both regional and central offices, for their consistent and substantial assistance to Ukraine’s viticulture, winemaking and horticulture sectors.

Last year you obtained your doctoral degree. What was the subject of your dissertation, and how does academic work influence your role in the industry?

Thank you for your interest in my professional path. I began my academic journey in 2014, entering postgraduate studies. In 2017, I earned the degree of Candidate of Economic Sciences, and five years later received the academic title of Associate Professor. In 2021, I entered doctoral studies, and in 2025 defended my doctoral dissertation entitled: “Strategic Management of the Development of Ukraine’s Viticulture and Winemaking Sector in the Context of Globalisation.”

I am convinced that my academic work and research directly contribute to practical progress. The dissertation identified strategic steps for the development of Ukraine’s viticulture and winemaking sector and outlined prospects for its integration into the global market. I firmly believe that implementing these strategic approaches will help build a strong, competitive and modern Ukrainian wine industry.

Have you ever considered becoming a winemaker or distillery yourself?

Of course – at a certain stage of my life, winemaking and viticulture began to occupy a special place in my thoughts. I have a genuine admiration for this craft and deep respect for the work of winemakers. It is, in its own way, a romantic yet highly demanding profession. 

However, I am convinced that each person should pursue the work that is truly their calling. For me today, that is my role within Ukrsadvinprom, which unites more than 300 enterprises. They require constant communication, support, systematic coordination and representation of their interests. I am certain that I am far more effective in this capacity. I hope our work genuinely benefits the sector – and this is reflected both in state honours awarded to me and to the Ukrsadvinprom team, and in the many letters of appreciation we receive from our member enterprises.

What strategic priorities and objectives does Ukrsadvinprom have for the next 3–5 years?

Our strategic objectives for the next three to five years begin with expanding state support and bringing it as close as possible to European standards – to the best practices of viticulture and winemaking development.

Equally important is restoring and strengthening trust in Ukrainian wine. Active promotion and communication are essential – in both digital and print media – without restrictions on the use of Ukrainian wine names, grape varieties and geographical indications, the number of which will continue to grow. It is vital to revive historical names, preserve traditional recipes and, at the same time, shape a new stage in the evolution of Ukraine’s wine sector.

Among our priorities are festivals and large-scale educational work with consumers. We must raise awareness of wine culture, explain how to distinguish authentic wine from low-quality products, and clarify which indicators define wine quality. We also plan to strengthen our presence in international organisations and institutions, where Ukrsadvinprom is already an active participant. Naturally, a key vector remains the expansion of Ukraine’s export potential and the confident positioning of Ukrainian wine on the global market.

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In this special edition of Drinks+, dedicated to the 10th anniversary of the Public Union Ukrsadvinprom, we present an exclusive interview with Volodymyr Pechko, the head of Ukraine’s leading association of winegrowers and winemakers. Our conversation explores the organisation’s key achievements, international initiatives, the development of the Wines of Ukraine brand, support for producers during wartime, […]

There are very few wine companies that can speak about the 19th century in the present tense. Fewer remain family-owned after nearly 190 years and operate across 105 markets worldwide. González Byass sits in that rare category.

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Founded in 1835 in Jerez by Manuel María González Ángel, the house began as a modest Sherry business built around one man’s intuition and his uncle Pepe’s expertise. The name Tío Pepe – today one of the most recognisable Fino brands globally – started as a family reference before becoming an icon.

A partnership with British agent Robert Byass opened export channels early, embedding international vision into the company’s DNA from the outset. Sherry was not just the founding product. It remains the only wine continuously produced by the same family since the company’s origin. Today González Byass is a diversified global group, but its centre of gravity remains rooted in Jerez.

 

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The House Today – A Branded Vision

González Byass operates as a “branded house.” Its portfolio includes:

• Tío Pepe – global Fino benchmark
• Beronia – leading Spanish winery producing wines in Rioja and Rueda
• Viñas del Vero – modern Somontano expression
• Vilarnau – pioneer in 0.0 and 8% Cava
• Croft Twist – a Fino-based Spritz redefining Sherry’s social positioning
• Projects in Mexico and Chile, expanding the group’s international terroir footprint

The philosophy repeatedly articulated by President Mauricio González-Gordon is simple: think in generations, not quarters. Internally, this principle is known as “5+5” – the idea that each generation is a temporary guardian, responsible for passing the company on stronger to the next.

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The Family Behind the House. From Manuel María González to Mauricio González-Gordon

To understand González Byass as a company, one must first understand that it did not begin as a corporation. It began as a family conviction.

In 1835, a 23-year-old entrepreneur from Jerez, Manuel María González Ángel, founded what would later become one of Spain’s most internationally recognised wine houses. He was young, ambitious and unusually outward-looking for his time. Sherry was already exported, but Manuel María understood that quality alone was not enough – positioning, relationships and trust mattered just as much.

His uncle, known affectionately as “Tío Pepe,” played a decisive role in shaping the early wine style. The brand that now dominates rooftops and airport duty-free shelves began as a tribute to a family mentor.

The international dimension entered early. In 1844, Manuel María partnered with Robert Blake Byass, his agent in the United Kingdom. This Anglo-Spanish connection not only gave the company its double surname, González Byass, but also embedded an export orientation into its DNA from the very beginning. The UK was not an afterthought. It was foundational.

Throughout the 19th century, the family expanded soleras, invested in cellar architecture, and positioned Sherry as a serious wine category rather than a fortified curiosity. The company survived phylloxera, civil war, dictatorship, global recession and the restructuring of the wine industry in the late 20th century. What is remarkable is not just survival, but continuity. The house has remained under family leadership for nearly 190 years. Today, that responsibility sits with Mauricio González-Gordon, representing the fifth generation of the family.

Mauricio González-Gordon. Steward, Strategist, Cultural Bridge

Mauricio González-Gordon does not present himself as a corporate executive detached from production. He grew up inside the ecosystem of Jerez – among soleras, harvest cycles and conversations about export markets. Educated in economics and business, he formally joined the family company after gaining experience outside the winery structure. This external exposure matters. Unlike some dynastic successions built purely on inheritance, his leadership has combined financial discipline with inherited cultural responsibility.

He became President of González Byass in 2015, at a moment when the wine industry was already beginning to shift dramatically:

• declining per capita wine consumption in Europe
• the rise of experiential hospitality
• increased scrutiny on carbon emissions
• generational drinking shifts
• the premiumisation-versus-accessibility debate

Under his presidency, the group accelerated several structural transformations:

• Formalisation of the People + Planet sustainability framework
• Stronger ESG reporting discipline
• Expansion of low and reduced alcohol portfolios
• Digitalisation of operations, including recognised SAP-backed systems
• Reinforcement of enotourism as a core business pillar
• Continued global positioning of Tío Pepe as a world brand

Colleagues often describe him as measured rather than charismatic in the traditional sense. His style is not theatrical. It is controlled, analytical, and long-range-oriented. He frequently repeats the phrase that González Byass “thinks in generations, not quarters.” That phrase is not rhetorical. It reflects the governance structure. The company operates with a clear understanding that family leadership is custodianship, not ownership in the short-term sense. What distinguishes Mauricio’s generation is perhaps the explicit integration of sustainability into corporate strategy. Earlier generations built the brand. His generation is tasked with protecting the conditions that allow the brand to continue existing – climate resilience, water management, renewable energy integration, and vineyard preservation.

He is equally comfortable discussing:

• the 19th century origins of a solera
• emissions reduction targets
• distribution structures in the UK and the US
• or the strategic logic behind a 5.5% Spritz

There is no visible tension between these subjects in his discourse. That fluidity reflects something important: he does not frame innovation as rebellion against tradition, but as its extension. For a company whose flagship wine predates electricity, that mindset is not incidental. It is structural.

When I met Mauricio González-Gordon, what struck me first was not corporate rhetoric, but coherence. The answers connected history to strategy, sustainability to economics, and identity to market responsiveness without contradiction.

The following conversation unfolds across the pillars that currently define González Byass: generational governance, digital transformation, Sherry’s renaissance, low and no alcohol strategy, sustainability metrics, vineyard preservation and global distribution. Each theme reveals how a 190-year-old house positions itself not as a relic of the past, but as an evolving institution. The wine industry today operates under intense short‑term pressures: rising production costs, climate volatility, declining per‑capita consumption in mature markets, and an ever‑present demand for innovation. In such an environment, the phrase “long‑term vision” can all too easily slip into empty rhetoric. At González Byass, however, “thinking in generations” is more than a slogan. It is an internal operating principle – often described as the 5+5 philosophy – a reminder that leadership is an act of stewardship rather than ownership.

I asked Mauricio what this philosophy looks like in practice.

Kateryna Yushchenko: You often say that the company thinks in generations rather than in quarters. In such a volatile and unpredictable global environment, is this long-term philosophy an advantage -or can it become a limitation?

Mauricio González-Gordon: “When you build brands like Tío Pepe or Beronia, you cannot think in quarterly results. Brand equity is generational. It requires consistency and patience. If you change direction every year, consumers lose confidence. And confidence is the foundation of a brand.”

He pauses, then adds something important: “But at the same time, we must remain highly reactive. The market changes fast. Consumers change fast. New trends appear quickly -whether it is low alcohol, sustainability expectations, or new ways of consuming wine. The balance is not contradictory. It is complementary.”

He explains that this dual approach has existed since the company’s early years. While the house protected its core soleras and flagship brands, it was also one of the first in Spain to establish a private enological research centre in the 1960s -a move that was far from conservative at the time.

“We have always combined continuity with research. When we identify a market movement, we study it thoroughly. We ask our technical teams to analyse it, to test it, and to propose solutions. That is how we adapt without losing identity.”

The emphasis is clear: generational thinking does not mean slowness. It means filtering decisions through durability.

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On Sustainability – From Commitment to Measurement

Sustainability in wine is no longer a moral add-on. It is operational pressure. Southern Spain is warming faster than the global average. Water access is tightening. Energy costs are volatile. Retailers increasingly demand reporting transparency. Investors expect measurable ESG performance. Under the People + Planet programme, González Byass has formalised sustainability into a structured, annually audited system. This is not positioned as communication, but as infrastructure.

The results are concrete:

• 99% waste recovery rate
• 55% of total energy from renewable sources
• 88% of electricity renewable
• 60% emissions reduction in Jerez over a decade
• 85% of bottles under 485 grams
• Integration of green hydrogen and geothermal energy

These are not symbolic gestures. They require capital expenditure, internal coordination and cultural change.

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I asked Mauricio where the real difficulty lies.

K.Y.: People + Planet shows impressive numbers – renewable energy integration, emissions reduction, waste recovery. What has been the most challenging part of turning sustainability from philosophy into daily practice?

M.G.: “There is a cost. Sustainability requires investment. Renewable energy systems, emission tracking, water management technology – none of this is free. And it cannot be implemented overnight.”

He speaks calmly, almost pragmatically.

“But we are convinced about the challenge of global warming. Many of our wine regions are directly affected. We see it in vineyard cycles, in water stress, in harvest dates. If you think in generational terms, you cannot ignore it. The alternative would be short-term savings and long-term damage.”

For him, the discipline of annual reporting is as important as the initiatives themselves.

“It is not enough to say we are sustainable. We measure every year. We certify. We compare performance. That creates internal accountability.”

The language is not emotional. It is structural.

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The Bottle Weight Debate

If renewable energy is a technical transition, glass weight is cultural. For decades, heavy bottles were equated with prestige. The logic was simple: weight suggested substance. Particularly in certain Asian and premium markets, glass mass was perceived as part of luxury. Today, that logic is reversing.

Lifecycle assessments increasingly show that heavier bottles dramatically increase transport emissions. As climate awareness grows, weight becomes more visible. González Byass reports that 85% of its bottles now weigh under 485 grams. Achieving that shift was not simply a packaging adjustment. It required changing internal perception.

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K.Y.: Moving away from heavy bottles must have been challenging, especially given the premium positioning. Was the resistance external – or internal?

M.G.: “For decades, weight signified quality. Especially in certain markets. Convincing our commercial teams that lighter bottles represent responsibility – not lower quality – has been a process.”

He does not blame consumers. He points inward.

“But consumer perception is shifting. Heavy glass increasingly signals a higher carbon impact. If we want to remain credible in sustainability, packaging must reflect that. The story cannot contradict the product.”

The transition required technical redesign – lighter glass that still looks premium – but also education within sales teams and distribution partners.

“It was as much about mindset as engineering.”

In that sentence lies the real cost of sustainability: not just infrastructure, but belief alignment.

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Climate Adaptation – Water Management in Spain

Southern Spain is not discussing climate change in abstract terms. It is living it. Over the past five years, Andalusia has faced recurring drought cycles, record summer temperatures and increasingly erratic rainfall patterns. Harvest dates are shifting. Water reservoirs fluctuate unpredictably. In regions historically defined by dry farming, irrigation strategy is no longer theoretical – it is existential.

For wine producers operating on generational timelines, the question is no longer “if” adaptation is needed, but how quickly it can be integrated without altering the identity of the vineyard.

At González Byass, water management has become a central technical priority. The company has introduced advanced soil sensors, irrigation optimisation systems and precision monitoring across key estates. The goal is not simply to reduce water use, but to understand exactly when and how the vine truly needs intervention.

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I asked Mauricio how decisive this shift has become.

K.Y.: Spain has experienced severe drought cycles over the past few years. How critical has water technology become to long-term vineyard security?

M.G.: “It is fundamental.”

He does not hesitate.

“We use soil sensors to understand the exact needs of the plant. Not approximations, not assumptions. The data allows us to irrigate precisely when necessary and to avoid overuse. Water efficiency is not optional in Southern Spain anymore.”

He stresses that this is not an isolated sustainability initiative.

“Adaptation is not a project. It is daily vineyard management. Every season is different. Every parcel behaves differently. Technology helps us respond without losing control.”

The underlying implication is clear: climate adaptation is no longer a future investment category. It is operational survival.

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Ángel de Viñas – Saving Vineyards Before They Disappear

Across Spain, hundreds of small, old vineyards are quietly vanishing. Not because the vines are weak. Not because the grapes lack quality. But because the economics no longer work. Many historic plots – some over 80 or 100 years old – produce very low yields. Their cultivation is labour-intensive. Younger generations often leave rural areas. Without financial viability, old vineyards are abandoned, uprooted, or replaced with higher-yield plantings. For a company that speaks about generational thinking, the disappearance of old vineyards is not a romantic loss. It is a structural one.

In 2021, González Byass launched Ángel de Viñas, an initiative to recover and support endangered vineyards across Spain. The project works directly with growers, providing technical and financial support over a multi-year period to help restore viability. But the question remains – is this preservation, philanthropy, or future business strategy?

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I asked Mauricio directly.

K.Y.: The Ángel de Viñas project focuses on restoring historic vineyards at risk of disappearing. Is this primarily cultural preservation -or do you also see long-term commercial potential in these old plots?

M.G.: “It’s a very good question. Our initial aim was protection. There are varieties and vineyards that are almost lost. In some cases, there are only a few hectares left. And the owners cannot invest enough to maintain them because production is small.”

He explains that the company typically supports a vineyard for around three years – helping to restore cultivation, improve management and bring it back into production.

“But vineyards can only survive if they are economically viable. Otherwise, they disappear. We don’t rule out the possibility that, in certain cases, we may buy grapes and produce a wine. That may come. But preservation is the first objective.”

He shifts the argument to consumer behaviour: “Today, consumers are increasingly interested in local culture. Not just international varieties that you can find everywhere. They want a story. They want identity. Recovering old varieties helps tell that story.”

He references an earlier example outside the formal Ángel de Viñas framework – the revival of Tintilla de Rota in Jerez, once nearly extinct, now bottled successfully as Moncloa.

“It shows that heritage and market can work together.”

Ángel de Viñas therefore operates on two levels. On one level, it is biodiversity protection – preserving genetic diversity and historic viticulture. On another, it is rural stabilisation – supporting growers who might otherwise abandon their land. And potentially, in the long term, it becomes narrative capital – rare wines rooted in authenticity rather than constructed exclusivity.

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Artificial Intelligence and Digital Transformation. Technology Without Losing the Human Hand

The wine industry has traditionally been cautious about technology. Craft, intuition, terroir – these are not words that naturally align with artificial intelligence or data infrastructure. Yet the operational complexity of modern wine groups has changed dramatically. Energy monitoring, supply chain transparency, predictive demand analysis, sustainability reporting, and compliance tracking – all of these require structured data systems. González Byass has invested heavily in digital transformation and received international recognition through the SAP Innovation Awards for integrating technology into resource management and sustainability processes. The key question is not whether they use technology – it is where they draw the line.

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K.Y.: González Byass has been recognised for digital transformation and the use of data systems, including artificial intelligence in process management. In a house built on craftsmanship and terroir, how do you introduce AI without losing authenticity?

M.G.: “We digitalise where it improves efficiency – not where it replaces character.”

He clarifies immediately that technology is used in operational layers: “Administration, energy tracking, materials management, bottling processes, market data analysis – these areas benefit enormously from digital systems. They allow us to reduce waste, optimise resources and understand consumer behaviour more precisely.”

But he draws a clear boundary.

“When it comes to defining style, blending decisions, fermentation judgement – that remains human. We are not producing a generic product. We are reproducing the character of each winery and its origin. That cannot be automated.”

He sees AI not as a creative replacement but as a decision-support layer.

“Artificial intelligence helps interpret data faster. It helps us identify trends. It helps us anticipate changes in supply and demand. But final decisions require experience.”

The digital shift also supports sustainability. Energy use can be tracked in real time. Emissions can be measured accurately. Packaging composition can be monitored. Without data infrastructure, ESG reporting remains theoretical.

In that sense, technology becomes an enabler of responsibility.

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Sherry’s Return. Reinvention or Rediscovery?

For decades, Sherry carried a paradox. Among professionals, it was revered – technically complex, gastronomically versatile, intellectually rich. Among many consumers, especially in Northern Europe, it was often associated with older generations and pre-dinner formality. Meanwhile, global wine consumption has been declining, particularly in mature markets. Younger consumers experiment across categories – cocktails, natural wine, low-alcohol options – and traditional fortified wines rarely sit at the centre of that exploration.

And yet, over the last several years, Sherry has quietly re-entered the conversation. Not through nostalgia. Through mixology. Through Michelin-level gastronomy. Through experiential hospitality. González Byass has been a key architect of that repositioning.

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I asked Mauricio whether this renaissance is clever marketing – or something deeper.

K.Y.: The global wine world is facing declining consumption. But Sherry – and Tío Pepe especially – seems to be gaining relevance again. Is this a result of strategic marketing, or are younger consumers genuinely rediscovering the category?

M.G.: “Consumption patterns are cyclical. They change. But beneath those cycles, there is the essence of the product.”

He leans forward slightly when he speaks about Sherry: “Sherry is different from everything else. The ageing system, the biological development, the oxidative styles, the versatility – it offers something unique. For people who want to explore wine seriously, Sherry is inevitable.”

He does not call it a miracle: “The product has always been strong. The challenge is accessibility. How do we make it easy for consumers to approach it?”

One of the key initiatives has been the Tío Pepe Challenge, an international cocktail competition that engages more than 1,500 mixologists annually across multiple countries. Finalists are invited to Jerez, turning bartenders into category ambassadors.

“For younger consumers, cocktails are often the first contact point,” Mauricio explains. “If Sherry can demonstrate its versatility in that context, it breaks the stereotype.”

Rather than fighting cocktail culture, they entered it. At the high-end dining level, Copa Jerez has become a powerful positioning tool. The international pairing competition brings together Michelin-starred chefs and sommeliers, reinforcing Sherry’s status beyond an aperitif.

“For many years, Sherry was seen mainly as an aperitif,” he says. “But it works beautifully across the entire meal –from Fino to Amontillado to Palo Cortado and beyond.”

The strategy reframes Sherry not as a nostalgic fortified wine but as a versatile gastronomic tool.

González Byass welcomes approximately 200,000 visitors annually to Jerez. Beyond cellar tours, the company operates Hotel Bodega Tío Pepe and hosts the Tío Pepe Festival, which connects wine with music, culture, and social memory.

“Experience strengthens memory,” Mauricio says.

“When people live Sherry – not just taste it – they retain it.”

For a category built on a solera system that blends decades into a single glass, patience is embedded in production. Now that same patience appears to be shaping its revival.

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Low & No Alcohol. Adaptation Without Dilution

If there is one shift that has forced traditional wine houses to confront uncomfortable questions, it is the rise of low and no alcohol. The category is no longer experimental. In the UK and parts of Northern Europe, growth in 0.0% and reduced-alcohol beverages has outpaced that of traditional wine segments. Health awareness, a culture of moderation, weekday consumption patterns, and social flexibility are reshaping drinking occasions.

For heritage producers, the dilemma is delicate:

• How do you enter low alcohol without weakening the brand equity built over generations?
• How do you innovate without confusing consumers about what you stand for?
• González Byass chose not to resist the shift.

Through Vilarnau 0.0 and Vilarnau 8%, the group entered the category via Cava – a sparkling format already aligned with celebration and lifestyle positioning. Now, expansion continues with upcoming reduced-alcohol launches from Viñas del Vero, including 0.0, 8% and a 5.5% Spritz concept. Meanwhile, Croft Twist, a Fino-based Spritz, has doubled volumes year-on-year in Spain.

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I asked Mauricio whether this move required internal persuasion.

K.Y.: For a company with nearly 190 years of history, was it difficult to convince the organisation that alcohol-free and reduced-alcohol wines deserve serious strategic attention?

M.G.: “Not really. Even with a long history, we have always looked to the future. Market reality must be incorporated into decision-making.”

He is careful about one point: “With a well-known brand like Tío Pepe, you must be cautious. Consumers expect something specific. So any extension must respect that identity.”

He frames low alcohol not as dilution, but as diversification: “Consumers are changing. They are moderating. They are creating new occasions. If we do not respond, we become less relevant.”

He adds that innovation is not imposed from above – it is developed collaboratively across winemaking teams.

“We have strong technical teams in each winery, and they share experience. When the market trend is low alcohol, we ask them to explore solutions. But always respecting origin and character.”

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Beyond Trend – Occasion Architecture

What is interesting about González Byass’ approach is that it treats low- and no-alcohol options not as a moral position but as an occasion design. A 0.0 sparkling wine works differently from a 5.5% Spritz. An 8% wine sits between traditional and abstinent categories.

Rather than abandoning alcohol strength as identity, the company is building a spectrum. For a house founded on fortified wine – historically stronger in alcohol – this repositioning signals flexibility without denial. It is not a retreat. It is recalibration. And once again, the logic circles back to generational thinking: If the next generation drinks differently, the house must remain present at their table – even if the glass contains less alcohol.

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The González Byass School. Education as Competitive Infrastructure

Wine is one of the few consumer goods that requires explanation to unlock its value. Temperature matters. Glassware matters. Serving order matters. Story matters. In a market where consumers are overwhelmed with choice – and where younger generations are less automatically educated about traditional categories like Sherry – knowledge becomes a strategic lever. González Byass reports investing over 15,000 hours annually in training through the González Byass School, covering internal teams, on-trade professionals, distributors and hospitality staff. The programme extends beyond product knowledge into service standards, origin understanding and sustainability awareness.

In an era of tightening margins, investing heavily in education is not a sentimental choice. It is a calculated one.

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I asked Mauricio why this pillar matters so much.

K.Y.: You invest significantly in training and education through the González Byass School. With pressure on margins and increasing operational costs, why prioritise education so strongly?

M.G.: “Because education strengthens the entire category.”

He does not frame it as brand promotion.

“When someone in a restaurant understands the product – the origin, the production process, how it should be served – the experience improves immediately. And when the experience improves, the consumer returns.”

He stresses that wine is not self-explanatory.

“In the past, fewer denominations existed. Today, the wine world is much more complex. There are many origins, many styles. Younger professionals entering hospitality may not be familiar with them. So education becomes essential.”

He brings it back to emotion.

“When people love what they are serving, they communicate differently. It is not just pouring. It is transmitting.”

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Internal Culture as Long-Term Strategy

The School is not limited to the on-trade. It reinforces internal cohesion across the group’s multiple wineries and markets. For a company operating in over 100 countries, education aligns identity. It ensures that sustainability commitments, brand values and product positioning are understood consistently – whether in Jerez, London or Mexico City. In a sector often driven by short-term promotional tactics, González Byass treats knowledge as infrastructure. And infrastructure is rarely visible – but always decisive.

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Conclusion

Legacy Is Not the Past. It Is a Discipline

It is easy to admire a 190-year-old wine house. It is harder to understand how it stays structurally relevant. González Byass does not position itself as a nostalgic guardian of tradition. Nor does it present itself as a disruptor chasing trends. The strategy that emerges from Mauricio González-Gordon’s leadership is something more restrained – and more durable. Generational thinking, in this context, is not romantic. It is operational. It shapes investment in renewable energy even when margins tighten. It justifies the use of soil sensors in vineyards threatened by drought. It requires lighter bottles, even as some markets still prefer heavy glass. It allows low-alcohol innovation without diluting core identity. It funds education because understanding protects value. The annual Palmas selection shows mastery of biological ageing. The Lepanto redesign demonstrates premium repositioning aligned with sustainability. The Tío Pepe Challenge brings Sherry into cocktail culture. Ángel de Viñas protects vineyards that cannot survive without intervention. None of these actions is spectacular in isolation. Together, they form a pattern. A company that thinks in quarters optimises revenue cycles.

A company that thinks in generations optimises continuity. When Mauricio says, “If you think generationally, you cannot ignore responsibility,” it sounds less like philosophy and more like constraint. Climate change, shifting consumption, and technological disruption – these are not optional themes. They are structural realities. Ultimately, González Byass offers a case study not of reinvention but of controlled evolution. The solera system blends vintages across decades. The company appears to apply the same logic to strategy – layering tradition, adaptation and discipline into a single identity.

And perhaps that is the real lesson from Jerez: Longevity is not inherited. It is maintained.

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There are very few wine companies that can speak about the 19th century in the present tense. Fewer remain family-owned after nearly 190 years and operate across 105 markets worldwide. González Byass sits in that rare category. Founded in 1835 in Jerez by Manuel María González Ángel, the house began as a modest Sherry business […]