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The Wine Travel Awards (WTA) signature event, “Holistic Insights: Paradoxes in Ukraine’s Import & Export,” delivered more than a showcase of fine wines – it was an immersive exploration of winemaking mastery, where tradition met innovation and terroir intersected with cutting-edge technique. Featuring exceptional wines from the nominees of the Wine Travel Awards, the tasting celebrated the artistry and forward-thinking shaping the global wine market. While rooted in the day’s broader discussions on import and export dynamics, this session stood as a testament to terroir-driven excellence and bold winemaking philosophies, highlighting the evolving narratives of both Ukrainian and international producers.
The evening was highlighted by the exceptional K’avshiri wines from Georgia, the fruits of an ambitious collaboration between Robert Joseph and Volodymyr Kublashvili. Spanning nearly five years of innovative experimentation, these wines exemplify the successful fusion of ancient winemaking methods from the Kakheti and Imereti regions with modern viticultural practices. The K’avshiri White 2022, intricately blended from ten different grape varieties including eight native to Georgia, Muscat, and Burgundy’s Aligoté, offered a layered experience of complex flavors. The K’avshiri Red 2022 also impressed with its blend of nine varieties, featuring a unique co-fermentation of Georgian white grapes with the robust Saperavi, enriched by the inclusion of the specially dried Aladasturi grape.
Further enriching the tasting lineup were offerings from Tenuta Manoylo, a burgeoning winery from Italy’s Marche region, now gaining recognition in the Ukrainian market for its exceptional craftsmanship. Their wines, presented in Kyiv, demonstrated a remarkable ability to balance tradition with contemporary precision, offering a sensory journey through one of Italy’s most intriguing and underappreciated wine regions.
The 2021 Tenuta Manoylo Passo del Borgo, Marche IGT Passerina set the tone with its vibrant straw-yellow hue, enhanced by golden reflections. On the nose, it revealed a lively and elegant bouquet of lime, hawthorn, and pear, underpinned by a delicate mineral edge that reflected the region’s proximity to the sea. On the palate, it delivered a fresh and soft experience, with a harmonious interplay of citrus and aromatic herbs, finishing with a clean, satisfying brightness.
The 2021 Tenuta Manoylo Passo del Borgo, Marche DOC Falerio Pecorino followed, captivating with its golden tones and delicate greenish highlights. Its deep and structured aroma featured an interplay of white flowers and ripe fruits, complemented by subtle hints of vanilla and balsamic vinegar. The palate was equally striking, offering a spicy, herbal complexity balanced by vibrant acidity. Already a standout in competitions, the Pecorino 2022 Falerio DOC recently garnered a silver medal at the 27th Japan Wine Challenge 2024, underscoring the winery’s growing acclaim.
The final highlight was the 2022 Tenuta Manoylo Passo del Borgo, Rosso Piceno DOC, a ruby-red beauty with pale violet tones that evolved into garnet with age. Its aromatic profile showcased a persistent blend of red fruits, black cherry, and Morello cherry, accentuated by floral hints of rose and violet. On the palate, it delivered a perfectly balanced interplay of elegant tannins, fruity richness, and spicy, balsamic undertones, culminating in a layered and complex finish that lingered beautifully.
Tenuta Manoylo’s selections offered a vivid reflection of the Marche region’s character and potential, proving that this up-and-coming winery is a force to be reckoned with in the global wine scene. Each wine was a celebration of craftsmanship, terroir, and innovation, leaving a lasting impression on the palates of professionals and enthusiasts alike.
The tasting session concluded with a delightful exploration of Ukraine’s unique contribution to the world of beverages – Honey Badger’s artisanal infusions and liqueurs. Known for their vivid colors and bold, aromatic profiles, the Blackcurrant Nalyvka, Cherry Nalyvka, and Cornelian Cherry Nalyvka offered a sensory journey through traditional Ukrainian flavors, reimagined with modern craftsmanship.
As the evening closed, it became clear that the wines and liqueurs presented were more than beverages; they were reflections of cultural pride and the innovative spirit of their creators, offering a compelling invitation to both connoisseurs and newcomers to explore the boundless possibilities of the wine world.
To gain deeper insights into the wines presented at the tasting, we turned to two esteemed experts, Vitaliy Kovach and Nataliya Burlachenko, for their professional reviews and impressions.
Vitaliy Kovach, founder of the “Vitaliy Kovach School of Sommeliers” and brand ambassador for Chateau Chizay, shared:
“Particularly for me, the K’avshiri wines were an extraordinary discovery. It is evident that this project demonstrates a high level of approach to both the brand and the product. This wine reflects not just the concept of terroir, as most wines we associate with this component or, for example, a grape variety. K’avshiri has something that connects this project to the world of strong alcohol, particularly whiskey, where the producer goes further and wants to achieve more than just a high-quality product, to create something extraordinary. The technology used by the producer is extremely complex, reminiscent of whiskey production: aging in different barrels, at varying temperatures, several grape varieties aged differently – undergoing fermentation processes together or separately, and even using dried grapes. For me, this is a manifestation of the highest level of mastery, which has behind its scenes not only the concepts of terroir or grape variety but also technological innovation and perfection in the overall wine production process. I really liked the wine; it has an elegant European style, and if I were to taste it blind, I probably wouldn’t have identified it. Because the wine is extraordinarily complex both in aroma and flavor palette. Such a number of grape varieties conveys, in my opinion, the notion of the Rhone Valley, in this case, that’s the association that came to my mind. The project deserves professional attention. Certainly, the red wine needs more time to mature to express itself fully.
The white wine can be tasted now, providing enjoyment and allowing one to see Georgian Dano (a village located in the Akhmeta municipality in Kakheti, Georgia) through the prism of a British perspective and truly vast winemaking experience.
Regarding Tenuta Manoylo, when we talk about this winery and the Marche region, the first thing to note, in my opinion, is that it is the most underrated wine-producing region in Italy. For me, it’s a mystery, but, on the other hand, I understand that it’s a marketing issue and it’s underdeveloped. And here is a young, yet promising winery having to pave its way, competing with the renowned wines of Veneto or Tuscany. And this winery is doing it quite admirably! Varieties like Passerina, Pecorino, or the red Rosso Piceno are always exceptionally pure, effective, without any flaws, meaning these are high-quality wines, where whites should always be drunk as young as possible. Pecorino (as well as, by the way, Verdicchio), in my view, is one of the ‘fishiest’ grape varieties, meaning it’s ideal with various fish dishes. And no wonder, the sea is nearby. Overall, the wines are magnificent. The only thing is – they are not so easy to find on the international stage, and here, as I’ve already said, it’s a marketing shortfall. But the wines of the Marche region deserve huge attention overall, and Tenuta Manoylo in particular. I’m sure that in a couple of years – the world will start chasing after them.”
Nataliia Burlachenko – ambassador for Vinos de La Luz and CEO of Big Wines:
“First, I’d like to note the organization of the event, everything was at a superb level, and the speakers – Robert Joseph and Richard Bampfield – were stellar, because they are true stars!
Regarding the tasting, I was amazed by Mr. Robert’s Georgian wine – K’avshiri, an incredibly complex concept is embedded in the project’s philosophy. To encounter such a variety of blends from such diversity in wines, and at such a level of execution – I truly did not expect to try today in Kyiv. These wines are incredibly balanced. The red wine has a European style that is completely unlike Georgian wines, so I was astounded! I remember this wine, it resonated with me, one could talk about this wine for a long time. The white has a refined balanced taste, it is also an impressive wine.
Regarding Tenuta Manoylo, their white wines are very gentle, balanced, with good acidity, and actually, I would choose such wines for my own consumption or as a gift, although, as you understand, I have plenty to choose from (Laughing). I also want to mention the very stylish label of the brand, it’s artistic and memorable. I will separately mention the red wine Rosso Piceno DOC – it seems like the embodiment of Italian aristocracy, perfectly velvety, with a rich taste and complex aroma.”
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