Gastronomy and Wine Portal

Moscato is one of the world’s most prevalent grape varieties, but the Moscato Bianco varietal, with white berries, finds its ideal expression in Piedmont, Northwestern Italy, in the hills of the provinces of Asti, Cuneo and Alessandria, a unique area famed for its wines. The aromatic Moscato Bianco grape has been with us since ancient times. In fact, mention is made of an excellent “muscatellum” wine in Roman texts.

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For centuries, the wine made from Moscato Bianco grapes was consumed mostly by local residents. It was not until the second half of the nineteenth century that a wine made from Moscato Bianco found a national and international market. The credit goes to Carlo Gancia, who took a trip to Champagne, in France, when he was still a young man, to learn how to make sparkling wine. When he returned to Italy, he found the area of Moscato Bianco ideal for making a spumante from aromatic grapes. Gancia applied the techniques he had learned in France – bottle fermentation, i.e. the Metodo Classico – and produced the first Asti Spumante from Moscato Bianco grapes, which in no time found acclaim both in Italy and abroad.

This method was imitated by many wineries in the area, which soon transformed into one of Italy’s most important wine and spumante-making districts. Thirty years later, another Piedmont native, Federico Martinotti, devised a faster and more cost-effective method for making spumante, with fermentation occurring in a pressurized tank, an enormous stainless steel vat that permits greater production volumes in less time than bottle fermentation. The technique is still in use today by sparkling wine producers all over the world. For the “sister wine” of Asti Spumante, i.e. Moscato d’Asti DOCG, domestic and foreign acclaim came with time, thanks to the many winemakers who introduced it in Italy and abroad. Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti DOCG show that, thanks to their special characteristics, Moscato Bianco grapes are among the most versatile in the world, ideal for making high-end sweet aromatic wines, as well as wines with less residual sugar, as recently authorized, that can be enjoyed on any occasion and throughout an entire meal.

The land

Since 2014 the production area of Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti DOCG, along with the winemaking countryside of Langhe-Roero and Monferrato, was added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites, with the other places considered precious to all humanity and thus worthy of special protection. This Piedmont site was the first winemaking district in Italy to receive this honor, thanks not only to the landscape and environment, but primarily to the work of the men and women who tended the vineyards on hills like no others, with a unique microclimate ideal for growing rare and highly-prized grapes that express their original characteristics only here.

The production area of Asti and Moscato d’Asti lies within the provinces of Asti, Cuneo and Alessandria. It includes 51 townships, scattered throughout an appealing area rich in natural beauty, historical sites and art. Ancient hamlets, carefully tended vineyard after vineyard carpeting the hillsides, and woods, orchards and parks, along with towns, castles and historic nature trails make the birthplace of Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti one of the destinations most coveted by those seeking itineraries free of crowds, where good food and good wines combine with uncontaminated, salubrious nature.

Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti: “sisters”, but different

Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti were born of the same mother, Moscato Bianco, but they are different because they were raised – vinified, produced and consumed – differently.

The first is a spumante and the second a semi-sparkling wine. The cork is also different: Asti Spumante, like all spumantes, takes the mushroom cork, held against the neck of the bottle by a special “wirehood” made of twisted metal wire.

Moscato d’Asti DOCG instead takes a classic straight cork, like those traditionally used on all wine bottles. Recently, it should be noted, Moscato d’Asti has also adopted the screw cap.

The bottles are different, too: the Asti bottle is thicker, because the internal pressure is higher than in Moscato d’Asti DOCG, and because of the production process. Some of the smaller producers of Asti Spumante still use the Metodo Classico, with bottle fermentation, but the method favored by most wineries is the Martinotti Method, in which temperature-controlled fermentation occurs inside large stainless steel vats called pressure tanks. In these, by adopting a cold chain process, must fermentation is controlled, and all the steps for the secondary fermentation, right up to bottling, occur in the tanks. Asti Spumante is ready just a few months after the wine harvest, ensuring unique freshness and fragrance. Pressure tanks are also used to produce Moscato d’Asti DOCG, along with the cold chain, but since there is no secondary fermentation, as Moscato d’Asti is not a spumante, even though it is characterized by an inimitable light and natural effervescence.

Asti DOCG

• Docg status since : 1993
• Grape variety: Moscato Bianco
• Max.yield: 10 tons per hectare
• Colour: from straw  to pale golden yellow.
• Foam: fine and persistent
• Nose: fragrant, floral with hints of linen and acacia
• Flavour. Delicately sweet,aromatic
•  Clarity: brilliant
• Minimun  potential alcohol content: 11.2%; minimum actual alcohol content: approx. 11% for the other styles from demi-sec to pas dosé

Moscato d’Asti DOCG

• Docg status since : 1993
• Grape variety: Moscato Bianco
• Max.yield: 10 tons per hectare
• Colour straw  yellow
• Foam: fine and persistent
• Nose: fragrant, floral with hints of sage
• Taste Delicately sweet, aromatic
• Clarity: brilliant
• Minimun  potential alcohol content: 11 by Vol.; min actual alcohol 4.5% by Vol.

 How to recognize Asti and Moscato d’Asti docg 

Authenticy and uniqueness for  Asti spumante and Moscato d’Asti docg are guarantee by the State seal DOCG (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin),  affixed to the neck of each bottles.  The State seal certified by the alphanumeric acronym with which it is possible to trace the entire productive row and to contrast adulteration.

Photo: Riccardo Con Fascette

Moscato is one of the world’s most prevalent grape varieties, but the Moscato Bianco varietal, with white berries, finds its ideal expression in Piedmont, Northwestern Italy, in the hills of the provinces of Asti, Cuneo and Alessandria, a unique area famed for its wines.

46 Parallel Wine Group presented itself at the very beginning of 2020. The company was born out of the dream of Anna and Taras Gorkun: to create wonderful Ukrainian wines worthy of making Ukraine’s sartorial statement in the world of winemaking. Immediately after the launch, the company began to face challenges, including the pandemic that blocked a part of its traditional sales and promotion channels.

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Anna Gorkun, CEO of 46 Parallel Wine Group, applied the tactics of slashing drive in extreme conditions. Now, the market players declare that 46 Parallel has rapidly – within less than a year – become a real national brand. As to the company’s credo – Proudly Ukrainian – it has been confirmed as a result of the company’s recognition at the world level. Its owner and presenter of the author’s program on the Wine Hub Channel with Anna Gorkun, who had made several dozen interviews with representatives of the Ukrainian business during one year, now found herself in this role, too: she was our interviewee and shared with the D+ columnist, how this successful strategy was being built.

Philosophy and concept

Undoubtedly, it all began with a dream. However, we are realists and we approached its implementation in a consistent manner, having analyzed the market, developed a business plan and positioning concept. Initially, we decided that we were launching two wine brands at once: because we saw a free category in the premium wines segment, as well as an unfilled niche of a high-quality wine for everyday consumption.

This is how 46 Parallel ТМ and Apostrophe ТМ appeared. Our idea is that we, Ukrainians, intend to promote such Ukrainian product based on exceptional quality and its origin. Given that imperative, the author’s collections of dry wines of the premium segment were formed: elite vintage Grand Admiral and lighter, elegant El Capitan wines of an absolutely amazing quality. The portfolio of the first Ukrainian emotional wine brand Apostrophe was also formed.

At the same time, one of our differences distinguishing us from a number of other producers (I would even say, one of our advantages) is that we create wines without being tied to one vineyard, which means that we have the opportunity to choose the best grapes every year and guarantee permanent quality. This does not, at all, imply the rejection of advantages offered by a terroir; it is quite the opposite: we have the opportunity to represent the best regions of Ukraine. In Odessa Region, we are working on the entire group of sparkling wines and most of the white ones. The red wines of the Grand Admiral collection are created from grapes purchased in Kherson Region. In fact, we have covered two major regions at once.

It should be emphasized that we don’t just arrive by the harvesting time and choose the finished product. We start the process of selecting the promising vineyards yet in early spring. Last year, at the beginning of May, our team visited all vineyards and production facilities of partner companies to make sure that all processes engaged in creation of 46 Parallel Wine Group wines of the 2020 harvest will be able to meet our standards. Once we have determined the terroir which is to be presented by us in the current year, we commence working on the vineyards: our experts carefully and regularly monitor the condition of vines, the formation of bunches, all agricultural techniques and the harvesting itself. In addition, the chief winemaker of 46 Parallel Wine Group personally oversees all stages of the vine’s development.

To improve the quality of future wines, we limit a yield per vine: no more than 3 kg, for premium collections – hand-harvesting and minimum time to be spent to deliver grapes for processing. Vinification and bottling are also strictly controlled. Our perfectionism extends to aging: we order barriques from the world leaders: French companies Seguin Moreau and Tonnellerie Vinea. We do not limit the tastings only to regular ones, which are carried out by our oenologists at every stage; we also have a final wine tasting conducted by an independent professional board. Upon approval by the top-class tasters, our wines are bottled and thereupon, “rest” in bottles for at least 6 months. It should be pointed out that it is only upon completion of all these processes, the wines may be offered for sale.

Entering the international markets

The slogan of our company is Proudly Ukrainian. It should be emphasized that despite “tender age” of 46 Parallel Wine Group and the turbulence of the first year of its operations, we already do have something to be proud of. It is true that the lockdown had seriously complicated the implementation of our export plans: virtually all major international exhibitions were canceled.

Nevertheless, at the very beginning of the year, in partnership with Drinks+ Media Group, we were able to present our wines to the international audience at the Wine Paris & Vinexpo Paris exhibitions and at the exclusively organized tastings of our wines in the USA and Germany, with participation of international experts of the highest rank. It should be emphasized that the very first reviews of our wines by world experts were very positive.

Drinks+ journalists have collected a significant portfolio of opinions of foreign professionals: judges of international competitions, wine journalists, oenologists, educators, sommeliers and wine consultants. We also submitted our wines to the Ukrainian and international competitions, the results of which confirmed that we were on the right track.

46 Parallel Wine Group is the only Ukrainian company that gained the award of the leading international contest Concours Mondial de Bruxelles 2020: El Capitan Pinot Gris wine was awarded a silver medal. This is an eloquent message: the Ukrainian wines deserve to be on the same list with the world’s best wines. Moreover, 46 Parallel may become the country’s calling card on the international arena.

At the USA Wine Ratings competition, already two wines of our company won silver awards: red dry vintage from a premium collection: Grand Admiral Cabernet Sauvignon-Saperavi-Merlot (vintage 2016) and sparkling rosé from Pinot Meunier by Charmat method: El Capitan Brut Rosé. However, the gold medal was shortly added to the portfolio of our 2020 international awards. The premium wine – Grand Admiral Cabernet Sauvignon-Saperavi-Merlot (vintage 2016) was awarded the Grand Gold Medal at the competition Sélections Mondiales des Vins Canada. The wines of the Grand Admiral and El Capitan were awarded medals at the Ukrainian contests: Odessa Bay, Ukraine Wine & Spirits Awards, Wine Guide of Ukraine, and En Primeur from the Black Sea Craft Wine Association. The achievements of the first year of the company’s operations include the fact that Apostrophe TM wines, along with the products of other Ukrainian producers, but exclusively in the wine category, are promoted under the collective brand #TradeWithUkraine on China’s leading online B2B platform 1688.сom. At the present stage, another very strong marketing project pertaining to our positioning abroad is ongoing, but due to the lockdown in most European countries, it is still on pause. I hope that by spring 2021, I will have the details to share with the connoisseurs of our wines.

Plans

Since stability has not yet come, I would prefer to talk about the plans in terms of their implementation. As promised yet at the beginning of 2020, we presented two more premium wines during the last year: the first batch of Grand Admiral Brut Nature vintage 2018 (limited edition, classic technology) and El Capitan Pinot Noir, which completed the exquisite El Capitan collection consisting of the wines from the Pinot variety group: Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Meunier. Thus, despite a cascade of obstacles, 46 Parallel Wine Group has implemented all plans set for the first year of its operations.

In the future, we plan to follow the course that we charted: to enhance representation throughout all channels in the domestic market and develop exports of the highquality Ukrainian wine that we can be proud of.

Photos by 46 Parallel Wine Group

The company was born out of the dream of Anna and Taras Gorkun: to create wonderful Ukrainian wines worthy of making Ukraine’s sartorial statement in the world of winemaking.

On March 26, Veronafiere disclosed the Italian wine brand’s global roadmap for 2021. In this context, the Vinitaly exhibition sounded like the most important instrument for relaunching the Italian market.

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The main news was the date of conducting Vinitaly in Verona – it is scheduled for October 17-19, 2021; thereupon, the organizers will begin preparations for the 54-th Vinitaly exhibition, scheduled for April 10-13, 2022.

Maurizio Danese, President of Veronafiere emphasized: “The Italian winemaking is a fundamental sector. The volume of wine production in monetary terms is about 12 billion euros, and exports in 2020 amounted to 6.3 billion euros, which is 2.3% less than in the previous year. For this global market, hosting live events is vital. This is confirmed by Italian and international operators who participated in Vinitaly survey last December and January: more than 30% of respondents said that future personal visits to exhibitions will be even more pertinent than in the past, and over 60% expressed confidence that fairs will remain to be vitally important”.

Maurizio Danese and Giovanni Mantovani

The planned Vinitaly Special Edition 2021 event will be based on “four pillars”.

First, it will take place at the Veronafiere exhibition center in compliance with strict security protocols.

The second important point is extremely professional nature of the event: only sector’s operators will be admitted, and the event will include off- and online tastings; a focus will be made on the Italian market, and seminars, as well as analysis and discussions of ideas of the wine2wine business forum (October 18-19) will be conducted. The exhibition starts with General Wine States 2021: conferences with participation of 50 top managers from the wine world, specialized institutions and EU organizations, discussing the current scenario and prospects for the future periods.

Giovanni Mantovani, CEO of Veronafiere, draws the wine community’s attention to the fact that the market is very vulnerable currently. And it’s not just a health emergency. According to the Vinitaly Observatory-Nomisma Wine Monitor, in January this year compared to the same month in 2020 (before the Covid pandemic), the Italian exports showed a 19% difference in top 10 export markets. Although these data are still fragmentary, they prompt, according to Signor Mantovani, to think during this difficult period about the vital role of enhancing advertising campaigns to attract the targeted audiences.

The third important pillar for Vinitaly Special Edition is the event’s international scale. Veronafiere is already cooperating with the ICE Foreign Trade Agency and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation in order to enable the international buyers, especially from the key countries (such as the US and China), to come to Italy pursuant to a simplified procedure: through the “green health corridors”.

Considerable attention will be paid to the service for Vinitaly Special Edition members. Exhibitors will be offered turnkey areas, including a full range of services. The virtual showcase and digital networking solutions provided by the new online platform Vinitaly Plus will also be available to subscribers in order to integrate and expand the event’s potential. The Special Edition is an important event in the Vinitaly chain of events, but it is just one of several milestones on the Veronafiere roadmap already planned for 2022.

In 2021, Vinitaly will be held in Chengdu, China (April 3-6). The second event – Wine To Asia will be held in Shenzhen, China on June 8-10. In the same month, Verona welcomes the guests of the international packaging competition Vinitaly Design (June 11), Vinitaly 5 Star Wines The Book (June 16-18) and OperaWine (June 19-20) with tastings of the best Italian wines. The summer events will end with the courses organized by Vinitaly International Academy (June 21-24). And in September Vinitaly will travel to Beijing (13-17) and then to Brazil for Wine South America (22-24).

Veronafiere disclosed the Italian wine brand’s global roadmap for 2021, in this context, the Vinitaly exhibition sounded like the most important instrument for relaunching the Italian market.

For good financial performance, a decent institution needs very little – literally a couple of introducing essentials: a professional sommelier and a competent wine list . But seriously, the path to success really runs through the wine list. It is not a secret that the sale of alcohol is the main source of profit for many restaurants.

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The creation of a wine list is a quite painstaking and hard work. A number of questions arise: “What drinks should be chosen? Is there room for personal expression here? Focus on the buyer or the seller?” Well, plus 1000 other questions.

Many establishments choose to include wines from regions and grape varieties that their guests are well aware of, and they can confidently choose, what they like. Others, on the contrary, are looking for something unusual to surprise and interest the guest. It’s hard to say with confidence, which approach is better.

It is quite often that the wines chosen for the wine list reflect the taste preferences of the sommelier, which does not always justify itself. If we ask several sommeliers how to correctly make a wine list, we can get completely different and often contradictory answers. At the same time, each of them will be sincerely confident that it is he or she who knows, which wine list will sell better …

Let us take a closer look at this important aspect of the restaurant’s operations by shuffling the wine lists of the most renowned establishments in the world.

Wine list: how are the matters arranged?

The main condition for making a wine list is a joint work of the chef and sommelier. Only in this case, guests will receive an unforgettable gastronomic experience, and the institution will increase its revenue. Correct structuring is no less important: a guest should be able to easily navigate the list, even with a large number of positions.

Basically, wine lists allocate drinks according to the following categories: country, region, and grape varieties. Separate positions for sparkling or sweet and fortified wines are also common. Descriptors such as body (light, medium or full) or wines with or without oak can also help people make choices.

A wine list enabling one to quickly select a wine or cocktail will significantly increase sales. After all, the sooner guests decide on the first drink, the earlier they will place an order and the higher is a likelihood that they will do it again.

On a separate note, I would like to broach the corkage fee. The policy pursued in this matter should be openly declared via the wine list. Some establishments limit the number of bottles that guests may bring, while others absolutely prohibit such policy. In my opinion, nothing strengthens a relationship better than freedom of choice . Guests will appreciate the corkage fee service, when you can come to a restaurant and enjoy your special wine for a fee. A reasonable compromise: it should not be less than a price of the cheapest bottle of wine on the wine list.

The world’s winning wine lists

1. James Suckling Wine Central

2nd floor, 22 Staunton St, Central, Hong Kong

Reservations@jswinecentral.com

The world-renowned American wine critic (# 1 in Asia) James Suckling opened a wine bar in downtown Hong Kong in 2018. Its wine list is impressive due to its variety, and offers the most innovative wine program in China and, possibly, throughout Asia.

This is the most significant “wine-by-the-glass” figures, of which I am aware: 400 wines from 700 names from all over the world when ordered in bottles. Plus, daily wine tastings and conceptual wine workshops hosted by James himself.

The 2019 Top 10 Wines, which received the highest points from James, open the wine list.

1. Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino Vecchie Vigne 2015

2. Renieri Brunello di Montalcino 2015

3. Muga Rioja Prado Enea Gran Reserva 2011

4. Marchesi Antinori Umbria Cervaro Della Sala 2017

5. Schafer-Frohlich Riesling Nahe Felseneck GG 2018

6. Rippon Pinot Noir Central Otago Mature Vine 2010

7. Chateau Larcis Ducasse St-Emillion 2016

8. Eredi Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino 2015

9. Errazuriz Las Pizarras Pinot Noir Aconcagua Costa 2018

10. Cheval des Andes Mendoza 2016

Thereupon, the wine list is structured according to the varietal composition: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and so on, with the wines having their own ratings and possibility to taste almost every position, using Coravin.

There is a page in the wine list with the so-called rock stars’ wines. These wines have always been associated with James Suckling’s unforgettable special guests’ parties, interesting people, and exciting stories. This wine list includes such wines as Cristal, Krug, Ornellaia Toscana Bianco, Dominio de Pingus, Chapoutier Hermitage L’Ermite, Petrus and others.

The next page is dedicated exclusively to Bordeaux wines and is called Bordeaux Confidential. They are very popular in Hong Kong, and every year, there is a tasting of young Bordeaux wines. James Suckling Wine Central presents primarily the grapes of 2017, 2016, 2015 and 2014 harvests. Mr. Suckling calls these young wines “the new classicism of Bordeaux”.

The establishment pays great attention to vertical tastings, when you can try Barolo, produced during the period of time from 1940-s to 2000-s by such producers as Giacomo Borgogno, Pio Cesare, and Conterno.

As you can see, the marketing of this establishment is closely related to the owner, his biography, taste preferences and tasting experience. This factor is luring for the guests who want to taste the wines recommended by such connoisseurs as James Suckling.

He himself assesses the institution in the following manner: “For me, this wine bar is the embodiment of my career as a wine critic over the past four decades. It is a physical extension of my experience and love of writing, reviewing and drinking hundreds of thousands of wines. And this is the dream of my dear wife Marie, who left her native Korea to work for 15 years in the wine merchantry in London and Hong Kong”.

Talking about pairing or gastronomy: thereupon, guests are offered to taste delicious Korean cuisine according to the menu developed by Suckling’s wife (I recommend Maries Royal Bulgogi Tteokbokki – beef fillet marinated in soy sauce with rice noodles) – this is a must, but there are also Italian and American dishes.

2. HIDE

85 Piccadilly, Mayfair, London W1J 7NB, Great Britain

http://www.hide.co.uk/                  info@hide.co.uk

Wine Mecca of London – HIDE restaurant – established by the flamboyant Russian businessman Yevgeny Chichvarkin, opened its doors in 2018. The restaurant has three floors. There is a bar on the ground floor, the second floor – Ground – is the heart of the restaurant, providing food and comfort, and the third level of HIDE –  Above – is dedicated to fine dining.

In HIDE, you can choose wine from a digital wine list (there are about 1000 positions) or order from the Hedonism Wines wine store, where there are about 5000 wines. Delivery to the table takes only 15 minutes.

Digital-list is very convenient. Visitors have the opportunity to display their favorites from a large list of drinks on a separate page and only then make a final decision. The structure of the list is classic, everything is divided by regions, a great emphasis is placed on the Old World, California (most likely, this is affected by the owner’s taste and, certainly, the demand for Parker’s 100 points), there are also many Australian wines.

The wine-by-glass page is impressive due to a large selection of champagne and a patriotic price for British sparkling Nyetimber – the top-end Cuvee 1086 costs 38 pounds, which is roughly the price of Cristal and Winston Churchill. White Burgundy and Californian Chardonnay are popular among whites, Pinot Noir, Bordeaux, California are popular among reds. There is an interesting specimen – Syrah from Morocco. By its example, a tendency can be traced: the presence of inexpensive and unknown wines on the list in order to promote a new product.

Ukrainian wines also appear on HIDE’s wine list, including such producers as Shabo and Beikush (Shabo Grande Reserve, Saperavi, and Kara Kermen).

In HIDE’s Above you can order a set menu: dishes and wines for them, which are selected by Chef & Sommelier (incidentally, one of Ukraine’s best sommeliers Dmitry Goncharuk is the chef here). There is a classical winepairing of 8 courses and 8 wines for 565 pounds, as well as a hedonistic winepairing of 8 courses and 8 wines for 895 pounds, where it is nice to see our Ukrainian “Massandra”: Massandra Kuchuk Uzen Madeira 1923.

Since HIDE’s wine list is in digital format, it is very convenient to place orders for wines, without worrying much that some position may fall out: it can be immediately replaced with something else. The program is elaborated in such manner that the menu is updated online, and if the last bottle is sold, then it automatically disappears from the list. Therefore, the wine list update here is a flexible, prompt, and simple procedure.

3. Bern’s Steak House

1208 S. Howard Ave., Tampa, Fla., USA

www.bernssteakhouse.com

Bern Laxer’s luncheonette was established 60 years ago as a small bar in a shopping mall. After Bern had purchased the adjoining premises, he expanded the bar up to a huge restaurant. At the present stage, the establishment has 8 halls for 350 guest seats. In 2002, after Bern Laxer’s death, his son David carried on the family’s business. He became the owner, general manager and wine director. The wine cellar contains approximately half a million bottles and the wine list has 6 800 positions!

The wine cellar’s collection includes an enviable quantity of Penfolds Grange: vintage wines dating from 1986, and 21 Château Margaux vintage wines, including the oldest bottle dating back to 1909. Guests are offered a huge selection of wines below $100, 200 wines for wine-by-glass, to say nothing of 300 dessert wines. The credit primarily goes to restaurant’s sommelier’s team headed by Eric Renaud, Director of Wine, and Brad Dixon, Head Sommelier.

Chef Habtib Hamde prepares classic steakhouse dishes and surprises guests with 5- and 8-week filet mignons and ribeyes.

Тhe best of the best 2020

There are numerous awards established for certain aspects of a restaurant’s wine list. One of the most reputable is the Wine List Confidential Awards in Britain, which is awarded to a specific restaurant in a specific category every year.

Best-By-The-Glass Offering: went to the restaurant “67 Pall Mall”

This restaurant’s wine list offers 800 wines by glass, including such as Latour 1961, Harlan Estate 1997, Sassicaia 1985, as well as Sangiovese made in amphora and trending orange wines.

With perfectly polished Zalto glasses and 17 professional sommeliers, this establishment has rightly received the Best By the Glass award.

• Cuisine: European
• Price per glass from £ 7.00 (125 ml)
• 67pallmall.co.uk
• info@67pallmall.co.uk

Best For Champagne: Greenhouse

London Greenhouse surprises with a champagne list containing 3400 positions. One of the judges assessed it as follows: “The list of champagne is just insane! A lot of interesting things can be found here: champagne from individual vineyards, old vintages and from the best producers”.

• Cuisine: European
• Price per glass from £ 9.00 (125 ml)
• greenhouserestaurant.co.uk
• reservations@greenhouserestaurant.co.uk

Best Micro List: Top Cuvée

The wine list can be distinguished not only for its huge selection, but also for its brevity and simplicity. “Since a wine list rarely takes one page, our goal is to get people to try new things. There are a few drinks on our list that I thought would be tricky. But because the list is so small, guests will try them” – Brodie Meah, founder of Top Cuvée, says.

• Format: wine bar
• Price per glass from £ 6 (125 ml)
• www.topcuvee.com
• hello@topcuvee.com

Most Original: the winner is DIOGENES THE DOG

The Elephant & Castle Wine Bar, named after a Greek philosopher who championed a simple, property-free life, gives visitors the opportunity to taste capricious wines from atypical varieties and from unheralded regions. From PetNats based on Riesling from Bulgaria, red sparkling from Britain, to the Japanese oranges based on Koshu from Honshu, as well as oranges from Czech Moravia.

• Cuisine: European
• Price per glass from £ 5 (125 ml)
• www.diogenesthedog.co.uk
• contact@diogenesthedog.co.uk

Another reputable organization – World of Fine Wine – also unveiled its list of the best wine lists in the world. Each year, this organization meticulously reviews 1000 wine lists. The assessment is provided by an independent commission of renowned international wine experts. In November 2020, this prestigious competition took place online for the first time. The jury consisted of journalists Andrew Jefaur, Elin McCoy, sommelier Andreas Larsson, James Tidwell. Who won in 2020?

Wine List of the Year – Pix Pâtisserie, Portland, Oregon, USA и Park Hotel, Vossevangen, Norway. For the first time for seven years, two establishments received the highest award.

Best Long Wine List in the World: Park Hotel, Vossevangen, Norway. The Scandinavian win again! Last year, that was the restaurant Geranium in Copenhagen.

Best Champagne & Sparkling Wine List 2020 – Pix Pâtisserie, Portland, Oregon, USA. Winner in two nominations: “Best Wine List of the Year” and “Best Wine List with Champagne and Sparkling Wine”. The restaurant also offers a huge selection of desserts and chocolates.

Best Dessert & Fortified Wine List 2020 – L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Hong Kong. Visitors are always impressed by the stunning design of this restaurant (make sure you get a seat at the bar) and the impressive selection of fortified and dessert wines (Tokay, Ports, Sauternes, our Muscat Massandra).

Best Sake List in Japan 2020 – Ryan, Tokyo, Japan. The establishment offers different types of sake: Junmai, Ginjo, Daiginjo, unfiltered, sparkling.

Most Original Wine List 2020 – Ferment Asian, Tanunda, Australia. The list consists of 99 pages, where guests can find classic wines of Europe and the world, treasures of Australian winemaking, as well as experimental wines from Barossa Valley and rare wines from the personal collection of Peter Lehmann (the credit goes to sommelier Grant Dixon).

Best Airline Wine List 2020 – Air France. The French airline has won the recognition for the third year in a row for its selection of Laurent-Perrier, Deutz, Heidsieck champagne, Gerard Bertrand and Jean Marc Brocard wines. The selection of wine is entrusted to the Best Sommelier 2013, Paolo Basso.

Best Short Wine List 2020 – Supernormal, Melbourne, Australia.

Best Micro Wine List 2020 – 28°-50° Wine Workshop and Kitchen, London, UK.

Best Regional Wine List in its Region 2020 – The Yeatman, Porto, Portugal.

Best Regional Wine List outside Region 2020 – Atrio Restaurant Hotel, Cáceres, Spain.

Best Sake List outside Japan 2020 – Cocoro, Melbourne, Australia.

Best Spirits List 2020 – John Howie Steak, Washington, USA.

Best By-the-Glass Wine List With Coravin® 2020 – Wally’s, Beverly Hills, USA.

Best By-the-Glass Wine List Without Coravin® 2020 – The Purple Pig, Chicago, USA.

Best Wine Bar List 2020 – Terroir, New York, USA.

Best Hotel Wine List 2020 – The Fearrington House Restaurant, Pittsboro, North Carolina, USA.

Best Designed Wine List 2020 – Blue Hill at Stone Barns, New York, USA.

Best Cruise Line or Ship Wine List 2020 – The World Residences at Sea.

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Nota вene

Now, we can summarize what modern trends in wine lists you need to pay attention to, in order to achieve the desired results in your establishment.

List design. Minimalist, often in electronic version, sometimes just on a chalk board, if it’s some kind of a small family wine bar. Nowadays, you can hardly find a leather-bound encyclopedia-type list.

Wine style. During recent years, craving for proper nutrition, healthy lifestyle has pushed restaurant owners to put such items as petnats, orange and light red wines on the list.

Wine geography. Everyone is already fed up with Italian Pinot Grigio and Chilean wines, the wine lovers demand new emotions, new countries and regions: Austria, Germany, Portugal, Sicily, Catalonia, Slovenia, Switzerland. Although classics such as Burgundy, Champagne (especially Récoltant wines), Piedmont are still loved.

Serving. Coravin remains a trending device (an upgrade up to model 11 is an eye catcher!), which will help preserve the quality of your wine and give the guest an opportunity to taste top positions by glass.

What will happen to the wine lists in 2021? Will importers go bankrupt? Will there be more Contactless Wine Cards? Will they become less diverse? Let us hope for the best! And most importantly, an element of communication between the sommelier and the guest will not be lost, and while visiting a restaurant or wine bar, we will continue to enjoy an unforgettable atmosphere.

Author: Maxim Pobivanets, sommelier, teacher in Wine School Baku, WSET Level 2 and 3, Certified Diploma (Court of Master Sommeliers)

For good financial performance, a decent institution needs very little – literally a couple of introducing essentials: a professional sommelier and a competent wine list.

DO Cava is meeting global developments this year. First of all, a new classification is going to be improved, as well as the requirements for the production of some categories of cava will be changed. Drinks+ Editor-in-chief appealed the president of the Regulatory Council of the DO Cava Javier Pagés with a proposal to talk about his vision of DO development, the reason for the so-called “revolution” in the Council, as well as support for winemakers in the difficult time of the pandemic.

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D+: What is the current marketplace of cava in the global wine world? What steps are being taken to prevent the Spanish sparkling wine from losing competitiveness among prosecco, champagne and other sparkling wines?

J.P.: CAVA is a leading sparkling wine DO crafted by the traditional method with worldwide presence. There are many other sparkling wines but very few belong to a DO whose only specialization and determination is to make quality sparkling wines. We have a rich storytelling that needs to reach consumers. A diverse, appealing region, with lots of organic vineyards, great wineries, characterized by the Mediterranean climate and culture. Our CAVAS make any moment and any dish special.

D+: What is the dynamics of cava production by classification categories over the past 5 years? How much, in your opinion, do cava producers pay attention to a quality rather than a quantity of the production at the moment?

J.P.: Organic, roses, reservas, gran reservas and brut nature have grown and stood out over the rest of CAVAS. Producers today are very committed to quality. Anything different would not make sense. Our strength lies in the long aging, in our vineyards, our climate and our region sustainability. Quantity at low prices minimizes all the effort that is put behind.

D+: Could you please tell your personal opinion that currently cava can be made in a variety of noncontiguous Spanish wine regions spanning from Catalonia in the north-east to Extremadura in Spain’s south-west. Do you have plans to change the zoning classification, and which ones specifically? Are legislative changes of segmentation and zoning have been implemented?

J.P.: I see it is an asset, it can become a joy for consumers because all these regions have unique characteristics. However, all this is only great if consumers get to know. On the contrary if they do not, it becomes generic and confusing. Our plans are to introduce zoning classification, starting by creating 4 major regions, naming yet to be defined, followed by some subregions. To use one example, the Northeast region is intended to have 5 subregions. It will help consumers in their choice and in their wine knowledge. All these classifications will go along a strict demanding legislation that will allow our wines for further complexity. Legislative changes that will be implemented by the last quarter of this year.

D+: In your opinion, is it necessary to indicate on the cava label for the consumer the terroiriness of the drink? Perhaps this will mark its quality or taste features? As we understood from your statements, there is no need for this in the new zoning classification rules. Do you still think so and why?

J.P.: The changes that we will implement will be optional. Wineries will decide what goes best with their philosophy. However, if you choose to produce a reserve, with the new changes, you will have to age it for 18 months instead of 15, the grapes will have to come from at least the region where your winery is located (not today), or a subregion if you so desire, the grapes will have to come from vineyards that are 10 or more years old (not today), the yield will be limited to 10.000 Kl a hectare (not today) and they will have to be organic (not today). So, the rules are demanding with one big word summarizing it all, quality. The origin will allow consumers see and enjoy the different taste profiles that the terroir, the land offers. It is adding a new discerning element that has always existed but hidden to the public.

D+: Do climate changes affect terroirs of Cava DO? If so, will any practical (I mean in technology, assortment) or theoretical (legislative) changes that could help winemakers adapt to new conditions going to be adopted?

J.P.: Climate change is a reality. Wineries and vineyard growers are adapting in the way they operate. They are fighting it in many ways, in the way we are managing our vineyards, being water conscious, using renewable energies, no waste… The wine people understand what is at stake, and they are fully supporting and implementing all kind of measures. If at DO level there comes a time when we need to introduce a new normative we will.

D+: Cava de Paraje is a new category that appeared in 2017. It provides a maximum yield per hectare of 8,000 kg or 48 hl, a minimum bottle aging of 36 months, only vintage wine, the acidity level is Brut and higher (drier). Is there any particular zoning types and information placement on the label for this category of wines? Please tell us your attitude to these changes.

J.P.: Cava de Paraje is a tribute to a great vineyard and its beautiful setting. It has its own normative, all geared to producing icon wines. They can stand alone, the new legislation does not affect them it just adds. The origin is its own Paraje, which is the vineyard location. There is no doubt for a consumer about its provenance.

D+: At the end of the last year, you announced that, according to the new rules, wine producers of Reserva and Gran Reserva, as well as a long aging cava will have to switch to organic production. How is the transformation to the new rules going? How many producers are on this list and how many have already received a certificate or are at the completion stage? What part of the total volume of cava currently accounts for organic wines? Is this certification is required in your opinion? Will this obligation lead to objections from winemakers, and what advantage do you see of such certification? How will it be shown on the label of these wines?

J.P.: Organic CAVA sales are growing rapidly, 31.5% in 2.019, though still from a low base, 2% of total CAVA production. Notwithstanding, we already have a large organic vineyard extension. Almost everybody in the region is an organic believer. They want CAVA an organic to be synonymous. We are ambitious and pretend that all CAVA reserve and grand reserve be organic and envision that in the future all CAVA becoming organic. The organic element will be shown on the label, in the front at liberty and in the DO back label.

D+: At the beginning of 2019, nine members of Cava DO decided to leave and create AVEC, (Asociación de Viticultores y Elaboradores Corpinnat). For what reason, in your opinion, did the so-called revolution in DO cava take place? What is your assessment of the situation, why could not you find a compromise?

J.P.: I have to believe that they felt the DO could not offer them the future they vision. It is a fact that until the moment they left they had achieved a wine quality and reputation inside the DO I would not call it a revolution but an internal conflict. If the DO finally approves the new plan, the cellars will be able to indicate and play with terroir-origin and the new norms that will rule CAVA will be as demanding or more than any other quality sparkling wine. In my dreams I see them back in the DO teaming with the rest of producers. I wish one day not too far it becomes a reality.

D+: Toni Torello, one of the 9th producers in the Spanish region of Penedès in the interview to Drinks+ (published last year) said that now the Paraje category has decreased significantly, and DO CAVA has lost 30% of all Gran Reserva, now called “Corpinnat”. How much do you think this situation has impacted on DO, as well as the overall image of the cava in the world? Is it possible to return these producers to DO and is it worth it?

J.P.: It is true that the Paraje category has decreased in numbers, not however, the Gran Reserva which there are some few reputed Cava cellars that account for the majority. Therefore, it is not so much the bottles lost, I think it is the opportunity, the synergism and the harmony lost that slows down the region and causes confusion to consumers. They must wonder, why people from the same area with high demanding product rules can end up presenting different regional proposals.

D+: Has coronavirus made major changes to your plans for reorganizing DO and promoting the cava brand? How did producers adapt to sales and promotion under the global quarantine conditions, which sales channels came out on top? Perhaps you made recommendations or found marketing know-how – please share with our readers.

J.P.: Coronavirus have affected all budgets and spending amounts. With lower revenues we all need to adjust. Not only that all on premise accounts have been closed, therefore, no active promotions could be activated. So we have been very active with social media. Sales have grown off premise and online. Additionally, we have provided wineries with training online courses, such webinars, consumer intelligence, market intelligence, digital marketing, online sales, etc… We have conducted tastings and pairing of CAVA with great food dishes, with the participation of wine experts and chefs.

D+: At the moment, as far as we know, there are problems of overproduction and a large amount of undelivered cava as a result of the Covid-19 pandemic. What steps are you taking or planning to take to support cava producers? Have you already estimated producer losses during the global pandemic?

J.P.: Covid-19 has close channels including enoturism and markets affecting sales. The lesser sales the higher the ratio sales to inventory. Yes, all the wine industry and CAVA included are having a great challenge. Producers have lost sales and will have to face doubtful debts. We have implanted several measures to help. Reduced fees to members, extended payments due times and reduced DO yields and ask for government additional measures to wineries and winegrowers.

D+: How do you think the pandemic will affect winemaking and cava sales from a global perspective?

J.P.: It will. This year is already affected. And possibly we will still see the effects during next year. A lot is going to depend on the Covid evolution, if it comes back as a pandemic again or not. If it does not wineries and the industry will weather the crisis. Some markets are already coming to a normal life and placing orders, some will take a little bit longer.

D+: How do you feel about using such a safe, and therefore urgent method like conducting online tastings and presentations on digital channels? Let’s say, our Communication media group has such resources and an extensive experience of disseminating such information among buyers and distributors from different countries. It would be interesting for us to support cava producers. It would be an honor for us to cooperate.

J.P.: Our promotional efforts had been adapted to make use of the online channels and keep the communication alive besides the pandemia restrictions. It’s a challenge but also a new opportunity to develop such an important channel like digital with the benefit of reaching a bigger audience in shorter amount of time. Online tastings, interviews and paring presentations are just some examples of the latest.

Фото: docava.es, Luis Moreno

Drinks+ Editor-in-chief appealed the president of the Regulatory Council of the DO Cava Javier Pagés with a proposal to talk about his vision of DO development, the reason for the so-called “revolution” in the Council, as well as support for winemakers in the difficult time of the pandemic.