The Porto Protocol at Sustainability in Drinks 2025 in London

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The Porto Protocol at Sustainability in Drinks 2025 in London

On 21 October 2025, the second edition of the international Sustainability in Drinks (SID) exhibition will take place in London, the UK’s leading event dedicated to sustainability in the alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks sector. This year’s event will bring together educational programs, practical workshops, themed panels, and an exhibition of innovative sustainable solutions.

Among the key participants is The Porto Protocol, an international non-profit organization that unites the wine community for joint action against climate change. Founded in 2019 by Taylor’s Port, the organization today has more than 250 members from 20 countries across five continents, covering the entire winemaking cycle – from vineyards to consumers.

The international project Wine Travel Awards, initiated by Drinks+ have launched a strategic partnership with the educational organization The Porto Protocol.

At Sustainability in Drinks 2025, The Porto Protocol will present its own stand, where visitors will have the opportunity to meet the team, learn more about the organization, and join its community. In addition, the organization will host two practical workshops dedicated to sustainable packaging solutions:

WORKSHOP 1: Managing & Improving the Impact of Glass in the Supply Chain

Date & Time: 21 October, 12:45
Location: Exhibitor Zone
Discussion on the implementation of EPR and DRS in the UK and strategies for decarbonizing glass packaging.
Speakers: Marta Mendonça (Facilitator), Head Manager at The Porto Protocol; Michael Jennings, Policy & Public Affairs Advisor at Beyondly; Robin Thompson, Head of Technical at Encirc (Founding Partner).

WORKSHOP 2: Alternative Packaging Success Stories

Date & Time: 21 October, 14:00
Location: Exhibitor Zone
Successful case studies of alternative packaging from leading retailers and producers.
Speakers: Marta Mendonça (Facilitator), Head Manager at The Porto Protocol; Muriel Chatel, Managing Director at Sustainable Wine Solutions; Paula Kendall, Commercial Manager at Frugalpac; Simon Mason, Head of Sustainability at The Wine Society.

SID will bring together producers, importers, distributors, suppliers, consultants, and policymakers, creating a platform for collaboration, education, and inspiration.

Members of The Porto Protocol receive a 25% discount on participation using the promo code SID25.

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Can Rosé Be Fine Wine? Breaking the Pink Ceiling

When a glass of pale rosé glimmers in the sun, it still evokes images of summer, sea breeze and effortless pleasure. But the conversation took a more radical turn at a recent roundtable led by Elizabeth Gabay MW, one of the world’s foremost rosé authorities. The question on the table was not how to make rosé prettier, fresher, or paler. It was whether rosé can ever be considered a fine wine – and what “fine” even means in this context.

At a professional tasting in London, Gabay invited a panel of specialists: Rebecca Palmer (Corney & Barrow), Richard Bampfield MW, Siobhan Turner MW, and Pauline Vicard (ARENI Global). Eight producers and over twenty vintages were poured, from Garrus and Rosé des Riceys to Bandol, Rioja and Lebanon. The debate – and the wines – challenged every stereotype about what pink wine can be.

Defining Fine Wine: A Moving Target

Fine wine is an elusive concept. Economists see it as a product with a secondary market and consistent price appreciation. Sommeliers describe it as a wine that provokes emotion, that reflects place and intent. Collectors point to scarcity and reputation.

For Pauline Vicard, who leads the global fine wine think tank ARENI, fine wine is not defined by price alone. “Fine wine must demonstrate identity, integrity and intent,” she argues. “It can exist beyond the secondary market. A fine rosé must not be traded – it must be respected.”

Elizabeth Gabay, whose books Rosé: Understanding the Pink Wine Revolution and Rosés of Southern France have become the reference texts, adds another dimension. “Fine wine requires patience,” she says. “It needs to show evolution. Most rosés are consumed before they’ve even had the chance to breathe.”

Rosé

The Tyranny of Youth

Rosé’s greatest strength is also its most significant limitation: immediacy. The category’s phenomenal growth over the last two decades – from Provence’s global dominance to the pink wave in California, Spain and Italy – has been built on wines designed to be drunk within the year of harvest. Freshness, fruit, and the famous “pale salmon hue” became visual shorthand for quality.

But the fine wine world values something else entirely: transformation. A great wine is judged not by its first impression, but by how it develops over time. “The problem is not whether rosé can age,” says Siobhan Turner MW. “The problem is that no one lets it.”

The market reinforces that short-term mindset. Producers rely on fast cash flow and tourism-driven consumption. Importers rarely want to hold stock. Consumers, conditioned by marketing, assume colour oxidation equals decline. As a result, the entire rosé category is stuck in perpetual youth.

Tasting Time: The Rosé Vertical

The London roundtable sought to test this assumption empirically. Wines were grouped into four thematic flights, each illustrating a different approach to serious rosé.

1. Provence and Beyond – The Fine White Paradigm

The first flight compared wines like Château Pesquié Quintessence (Ventoux 2020–2022) and Château d’Esclans Garrus (Provence 2021–2023). These represent what Rebecca Palmer called the “fine white” approach: meticulous site selection, low yields, fermentation and ageing in oak, bâtonnage, and extended lees contact.

The Garrus 2021 displayed layered texture, saline precision and structure comparable to a fine Meursault. With time in the bottle, tropical notes gave way to hazelnut, spice and a gentle oxidative complexity. “This is clearly a wine built to evolve,” said Bampfield. “Its freshness is not fleeting – it’s structural.”

Pesquié’s 2020, aged in large neutral barrels, showed a similar capacity to integrate oak and develop tertiary nuances. The pink tone had deepened slightly, but the palate remained crystalline and linear. “If these were labelled white, no one would question their fine-wine credentials,” remarked Gabay.

2. Sparkling Rosé – The Time Dimension Built In

The second flight featured Letrari Rosé Riserva Trentodoc (2009, 2012, 2015) and Domaine Alexandre Bonnet Rosé des Riceys (1995, 2012, 2021). Time is an essential ingredient here. Traditional-method rosés already benefit from long-lees ageing, autolysis, and acidity, which ensure longevity.

The Letrari 2009, disgorged after over a decade, revealed wild strawberry, brioche and truffle – proof that the category can thrive with time. Rosé des Riceys, one of Champagne’s rarest sub-appellations, took the argument even further. The 1995 vintage had become pale copper, with aromas of dried roses, tea leaf, and umami depth. “You wouldn’t guess this is rosé,” said Palmer. “It’s simply great Pinot Noir.”

3. Outliers – The Global Rosé Identity

The third group explored wines that refuse to fit any template: Château Musar (Lebanon 2018, 2020) and Chêne Bleu Le Rosé (Vaucluse 2010, 2013, 2024). Musar’s rosé, a blend of Obaideh and Merwah, had matured into something almost ethereal – honeyed, nutty, and gently oxidative. The 2018 vintage tasted like an aged white Rhône than a pink Mediterranean.

Chêne Bleu demonstrated the opposite path: cool-site Grenache and Syrah with a structure that carried its 2010 vintage gracefully. The colour was faded, but the texture was silky, mineral, with a herbal lift. “If longevity is the test of greatness, these wines pass it easily,” noted Turner.

4. Heritage Styles – The Rosé That Was Always Serious

Finally, two archetypes of fine rosé by tradition: Lopez de Haro Classica Gran Reserva (Rioja 2009–2013) and Château Pibarnon Nuances (Bandol 2016–2021).

The Rioja, made from Tempranillo and Garnacha with extended barrel and bottle ageing, showcased what Gabay called “intentional time”. “This is rosé made with the same seriousness as a Gran Reserva red,” she said. The 2009 had complex layers of caramelised orange, leather, and spice – proof that the category already has historical precedents for long-lived rosé.

Pibarnon’s Nuances combined the tension of Mourvèdre with maritime freshness, showing how Bandol’s tradition of structured rosé naturally fits the fine wine framework. “Here we see terroir speaking,” said Vicard. “Not colour, not marketing – just place.”

Beyond Colour and Stereotype

If the tasting demonstrated anything, fine rosé is not defined by colour but by construction. Age-worthy rosé needs acidity, phenolic backbone, and balance – the same fundamentals as any fine white or red. But it also needs intention.

“The winemaking choices that produce longevity are deliberate,” explained Gabay. “Longer macerations, partial oak, time on lees, and careful oxygen management are all investments. They require both technical knowledge and commercial courage.”

That last point touches the heart of the problem. Serious rosé costs more to produce and to hold. Without a secondary market, those costs must be absorbed upfront. For small producers, that means taking financial risk on a style that may not yet have a ready audience.

Rosé

Economics of Fine Rosé

Fine wine is not just about taste; it’s about trust. Collectors and sommeliers invest in bottles they believe will appreciate complexity and value. For rosé, that ecosystem barely exists.

“Fine wine and secondary-market wine aren’t identical,” noted Vicard. “But credibility still matters. Producers can’t afford to wait if no one is willing to pay for patience.”

The panel discussed potential solutions:

Collective branding: Regions or producer groups could communicate the concept of “serious rosé” more clearly, much as Champagne did with prestige cuvées.
Diversified release strategies: Some rosés could be held and released later at higher prices, while entry-level wines maintain cash flow.
Education and archiving: Critics, MWs, and sommeliers must start cellaring rosés and documenting their evolution. Without data, perception will not change.

As Bampfield put it: “Margin creates quality. The more margin producers have, the more time they can give their wines.”

Technical Pathways to Longevity

From a winemaking perspective, age-worthy rosé relies on three structural pillars:

Acid backbone – often from altitude or early harvest.
Phenolic texture – achieved through skin contact or barrel maturation.
Controlled oxidation – managing oxygen to build stability and complexity.

Oak, once controversial in rosé, has become a key tool. “If used judiciously,” said Palmer, “it gives shape without heaviness, and protects the wine for ageing.” Similarly, lees stirring and micro-oxygenation can increase oxidation resistance while adding depth.

The tasting revealed that colour evolution is not a fault but a natural phase. Pale salmon becomes onion-skin, then copper and amber – paralleling the golden hues of mature white Burgundy. “We have to stop equating freshness with pallor,” said Gabay. “Maturity has its own beauty.”

Cultural and Psychological Barriers

Despite technical feasibility, perception remains the most formidable barrier. The industry has trained consumers to associate rosé with youth, femininity and leisure. “Fine” implies gravitas, contemplation, and often masculinity. Changing that narrative will take time.

“Rosé suffers from a branding paradox,” said Vicard. “Its success as a lifestyle wine has made it difficult to be taken seriously. But that also means it has already captured hearts – the next step is to capture minds.”

There are parallels with the history of white Burgundy and sparkling wine. Both categories were once dismissed as secondary to reds until time and collective effort changed perception. The same could happen for rosé – if producers and communicators act together.

Signs of Change

Encouragingly, there are already movements toward maturity. Top Provence, Bandol, and Spain estates release library vintages to demonstrate ageing potential. Sommeliers organise “vertical rosé” tastings in London, New York and Tokyo. Wine education programs, including Capstone California and ARENI Global workshops, now include modules on serious rosé.

At the 2025 London Wine Fair, rosé was featured not as a summer novelty but as a core part of sustainability and fine-wine discussions. The Pink Rosé Symposium hosted masterclasses on soil, phenolic ripeness and barrel trials – terms once reserved for reds and whites.

Even the trade is catching up. Fine-wine platforms like Liv-ex are beginning to list small allocations of prestige rosés such as Garrus, Clos Cibonne, or Château Pibarnon Nuances. The quantities are symbolic, but the signal is strong: rosé is entering the conversation.

Toward a New Definition of Fine Rosé

So, can rosé be a fine wine? As the London tasting proved, the answer is unequivocally yes – but only when judged by the right metrics. Delicate rosé is not an imitation of fine red or white. It’s a distinct category built on transparency, freshness, and time.

Fine rosé does not chase longevity for its own sake; it seeks expression through evolution. Its beauty lies in subtlety – how fruit turns to spice, brightness to savour, youth to wisdom. As Gabay summed up: “Maybe rosé doesn’t need to imitate anyone. It can be fine on its own terms.”

Rosé

Conclusion: Patience, Place, and Purpose

The evolution of rosé mirrors the evolution of wine culture itself – from instant gratification toward reflection and respect. To treat rosé seriously is to acknowledge that colour is not destiny.

Age-worthy rosé already exists in the cellars of Bandol, in the limestone of Riceys, in the volcanic soils of Lebanon, and in the high vineyards of the Ventoux. What it lacks is collective belief.

The panel concluded that fine wine is not a formula but a mindset. It begins with intent, demands structure, and rewards patience. The same qualities apply to the rosé journey – a category finally coming of age.

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Masterclasses with Fongyee Walker MW: A Journey into the World of Tenuta Santa Maria Fine Wines

Two exclusive Tenuta Santa Maria masterclasses were successfully held in mainland China, led by Fongyee Walker MW, the first Master of Wine in mainland China. These events marked a remarkable collaboration between two Wine Travel Awards nominees – Fongyee Walker MW and Tenuta Santa Maria (Villa Mosconi Bertani) – bringing together excellence in wine education and Italian winemaking heritage.

Fongyee Walker MW was honored with the Wine Travel Awards 2024-2025 a special Judge’s Choice Award in the category “Education in Enotourism / Unique Program”, while Tenuta Santa Maria won the public vote in the category “The Visiting Card of the Country / Brand – the Visiting Card of the Country.”

tenuta santa maria

During the sessions, participants explored the winery’s rich heritage and tasted its outstanding wines.

Soave Lepiga 2023
Chardonnay Torre Pieve 2022
Pràgal IGT Red Verona 2022
Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2022
Valpolicella Classico Ripasso 2020
Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico Riserva 2018
Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Brolo Dei Poeti 2007
Decima Aurea Merlot Verona 2019
Recioto Classico Della Valpolicella 2021

Special attention was given to Acinaticum 1928, a rare family wine and a true historical treasure of the estate. Under Fongyee Walker’s guidance, attendees delved into the nuances of Italian winemaking – from distinctive terroirs and indigenous clones to family traditions passed down through generations. These masterclasses offered a rare opportunity to gain a deeper understanding of Italian viticulture and the history of Valpolicella.

Tenuta Santa Maria

With over 20 years of experience in wine education, Fongyee Walker MW – founder of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting in Beijing and contributor to Decanter and Tatler Asia – shared her insights on the interplay between Eastern and Western wine cultures.

Both Wine Travel Awards laureates remain our valued partners, and we look forward to continuing our collaboration on future projects.

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Aggressor’s Attack on September 28 Hits AZNAURI Brandy Production for the Ukrainian Market

On the night of September 27–28, 2025, a massive air attack by the aggressor country destroyed the production facilities of one of Ukraine’s largest wine and brandy enterprises – Akkerman Distillery – where the famous brandy AZNAURI was produced for the Ukrainian and export markets.

The bottling lines, as well as warehouses for finished products and accessories, suffered the most significant damage. Fortunately, there were no human casualties. In line with company safety protocols, all employees took shelter during the air raid, which saved the lives of more than 50 people on shift that night. A final assessment of the destruction and losses is currently underway. According to the information currently available, the destruction covers an area of 3,640 m², with 1,500 m² of glazing damaged and approximately 250,000 bottles of brandy lost.

Global Beverage Trade in Ukraine reports that sufficient product stocks have been secured to ensure uninterrupted supply in the shortest possible terms. At the same time, the company has launched a set of measures aimed at resuming production, including the search for alternative production capacities.

Despite these extremely challenging circumstances, the company reaffirms its commitment to the Ukrainian market – maintaining jobs, paying taxes, and continuing to support the national economy.

AZNAURI is one of the most popular brandy, which, over more than a decade on the Ukrainian market, has earned recognition and become a true Love mark for Ukrainian consumers. It worth mentioning that brand AZNAURI is one of the fastest growing brand in brandy category worldwide. The growth in 2024 was 45,5%, and the sales volume was 1,6 million 9 liters cases. The brand embodies the values of strength, courage, and ambition – qualities that now, more than ever, reflect the spirit of the Ukrainian team working with AZNAURI.

Akkerman Distillery is the largest enterprise in the wine and brandy industry in Ukraine. The production capacity is more than 50 million bottles annually, and the company provided jobs for nearly 400 employees. Akkerman Distillery is listed among the country’s large taxpayers and, in the first eight months of 2025, contributed almost 20 million $ in taxes to the state budget. Destruction on such a huge enterprise impacts not only to the wine and brandy industry, but also to the Ukrainian economy as a whole.

It is important to note that the destruction affected only brandy production. The production of AZNAURI wines continues to operate as usual.

The company expresses its deep gratitude to all partners and consumers for their trust and support and is doing everything possible to restore full supply in the shortest possible time.

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Precision. Hospitality. Mastery

On 7-10 September 2025, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, became the focus of the wine world as it hosted the ASI Best Sommelier of Asia & Pacific competition. The event, organized by the Sommelier Association of Malaysia (SOMLAY), brought together representatives of 14 national associations, confirming the country’s status as a professional hub. The ASI “Best Sommelier of Asia & Pacific 2025” competition in Kuala Lumpur was covered by Drinks+ editor Solomiia Begun.

Despite its European origins, today the Association de la SommellerieInternationale (ASI) – founded in 1969 in Reims, France – is represented on six continents. As the global advocate for modern sommeliers, it seeks to raise professional standards of restaurant service at the international level.

The first continental ASI “Best Sommelier of Asia & Oceania” competition was held in 2009 in Osaka, Japan, with nine national associations participating. The Sommelier Association of Malaysia has taken part in every subsequent competition in the region.

To clarify: ASI’s members are not individual sommeliers but national associations. At present, the organisation counts 63 full member associations and five observer countries, enabling it to conduct professional dialogue internationally, nationally, and locally. ASI’s mission is to facilitate the creation of a single national sommelier association in each country, coordinate tools and events for the development of the profession, raise consumer awareness of the sommelier’s role, and, of course, protect the profession’s ethical standards.

I can state with confidence: the calibre of sommeliers in Malaysia is rising rapidly. Hosting the continental ASI Best Sommelier of Asia & Pacific competition on 7-10 September 2025 in Kuala Lumpur has cemented the country’s status as a regional centre for professional competitions.

Let’s look at the global backdrop against which the event took place. The wine market shows mixed trends: after a moderate revival in 2024 – thanks in part to tourism – wine imports fell by roughly 30% in the first half of 2025. Market players are betting on premiumisation and the on-trade segment. Demand for no/low-alcohol and non-alcoholic gastronomic alternatives is shaping new pairing and tasting formats. The hospitality sector is also transforming. One indicator: the MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur & Penang is expanding, including the country’s first Green Star.

Over the last decade, sommeliers in Asia, Oceania, and the wider Pacific region have shown steady professional growth. This is evidenced by the high number of Asian candidates attaining ASI Diploma Gold, as well as the region’s strong performances at world competitions – including a place on the podium at the ASI Best Sommelier of the World 2023 in Paris.

SOMLAY President Ronald W. Binati noted: “This event not only honours our sommeliers; it also gives us – as an association, a city, and a country – an opportunity to showcase our understanding of hospitality, the sommelier profession, and the culinary traditions of the world.”

Best Sommelier of Asia & Pacific

The competition took place at DoubleTree by Hilton Kuala Lumpur. Over four days, contestants competed in theoretical, tasting, and service disciplines. Fourteen national associations – the largest number in the region’s history – took part: Japan, South Korea, Taiwan, China, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Vietnam, the Philippines, Thailand, Australia, New Zealand, Kazakhstan, and India.

They nominated 14 candidates, including:
• DorianneNeimard (Australia) • Kam Fung (Reeze) Choi (China) • Jai Singh (India) • Raymond AndiBajoTambunan (Indonesia) • Miyuki Morimoto (Japan) • RatmirAkhmetov (Kazakhstan) • Yi Ying Yong (Malaysia) • SurajGC (New Zealand) • Ian Odilio Santos (Philippines) • Celine Jung Mi Hyun (Singapore) • Jungmin An (Republic of Korea) • SuppawatTeeta (Thailand) • Thi Dung Tram Tran (Vietnam) • Patrick Chiu (Taiwan).

The competition was conducted under the guidance of a distinguished committee comprising Olivier Poussier (Best Sommelier of the World 2000, France), Shinya Tasaki (Best Sommelier of the World 1995, Japan), Andreas Larsson (Best Sommelier of the World 2007, Sweden), RaimondsTomsons (Best Sommelier of the World 2023, Latvia), Heidi Mäkinen (Master of Wine, Finland), DejanZivkoski (President, Sommelier Association of Serbia), and Saiko Tamura-Soga (ASI Vice President, Asia & Pacific).

Among the event’s guests were importers, wineries, embassies, trade boards, and brand owners. Throughout the days they were able to attend masterclasses, a wine expo, professional tastings, and meet representatives of the local wine industry. A gala dinner was the final note. But let me start at the beginning.

The ASI “Best Sommelier of Asia & Pacific 2025” opened on 7 September with the Wine & Sake Showcase – the largest wine and bar event in Malaysia this year. The showcase brought together 25 exhibitors and 150 international delegates – industry professionals and media.

The exposition featured wines, sake, and spirits from partners across the globe. Among the New World brands: Penfolds, Jacob’s Creek, Montes, Grant Burge, Chryseia, Trivento, Hardys. Old World producers included Champagne ARLAUX, Talamonti, Bovin Winery, SchlossJohannisberg, and others.

The event’s depth was ensured by specialised importers and distributors: Hank’s Retail, With Love From Italy, Dionysus Asia, Spanish Cellar KL, Mirage Synergy, JS International, Albert Wines & Spirits, and Vinexposium. The world of sake was represented by the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association and Mikuni Food Distribution. The Chinese brand Moutai (CMPM) presented the national distillate. I was personally impressed by the 52% Chinese spirit Yanghe (Jiangsu Yanghe) –a heritage reaching back over a thousand years, a model of quality and tradition. The brand’s bottles – silver-blue with gold accents – stand out with a luxurious, almost regal style. Notably, guests also singled out the Polish mineral water Perlage – by quality, it is among the best in the world.

Stölzle Lausitz presented premium German glassware, while Vintec showcased modern solutions for wine storage. The educational component was strengthened by The Beverage Clique Academy Malaysia, underlining the event’s role as a platform for cultural and professional exchange.

Best Sommelier of Asia & Pacific 2025

SOMLAY President Ronald W. Binati opened the competition with these words: “This is not just an event – it is a milestone for Malaysia. We welcome the region’s best sommeliers, demonstrating our understanding of hospitality, the culture of service, and professional standards. For Malaysian sommeliers this is an opportunity – doors that open new horizons, inspire, and shape the future. The ASI competition is not only a technical contest. It is a platform for intercultural exchange, professional growth, and the setting of new standards in wine service.

“For the Asia-Pacific region, the significance of this competition cannot be overstated. It is a great convergence – a tapestry woven from diverse cultures and backgrounds, philosophies and innovations of many nations. Here, borders dissolve – and collaborations are born. We forge friendships that cross boundaries, share knowledge that enriches everyone, and set new standards of excellence that will shape the profession for generations to come.

“The ASI competition celebrates not only technical mastery but also the spirit of service, the joy of discovery, and the profound ability of sommeliers to bridge cultures and create unforgettable memories. It is a tribute to every night of study, every obstacle overcome, and every moment of inspiration – over a glass of wine.”

Best Sommelier of Asia & Pacific

Four days – that felt like one

ASI CONTEST BEST SOMMELIER OF ASIA & PACIFIC is a multi-day competition that includes written examinations, blind tastings, and practical service tasks. After the quarter-final and semi-final, the top three advance to the final, where they must complete various tasks under the supervision of the ASI Competitions Committee.

Events of this kind reach far beyond the competition stage – they are the moments when the global sommelier family gathers to share knowledge, celebrate diversity, and honour the craft. Such meetings create a unique space for candidates, association delegates, the press, and ASI leaders to connect, exchange ideas, and build lasting relationships.

Day 1-2 – written section and blind tasting

The opening days set a brisk pace: intensive theory tests in the morning, lightning-fast blind tastings in the afternoon (classic varieties, a mix of regions, fortified wines and spirits). Professional business meetings and new connections – during the evening receptions.

Day 3 – semi-finalists announced

At this stage, candidates who had arrived in Malaysia from across the Pacific Rim underwent a rigorous quarter-final – a combination of service, tasting, and written trials.

Best Sommelier of Asia & Pacific

This year’s line-up was a mix: from debutants of the “Best Sommelier of Asia & Pacific” to seasoned competitors – such as Reeze Choi, representing China, who took third place at the ASI Best Sommelier of the World 2023 in Paris. It was gratifying to see an excellent balance of women and men – reflecting the profession’s true diversity and growing interest among women.

After the quarter-final round, contestants, national presidents, judges, and partners gathered in the Banquet Hall of DoubleTree by Hilton Kuala Lumpur for a celebratory dinner and the long-awaited announcement of the semi-finalists.

Semi-finalists: Reeze Choi (China) • Miyuki Morimoto (Japan) • RatmirAkhmetov (Kazakhstan) • Yi Ying Yong (Malaysia) • Celine Jung (Singapore) • JungminAn (South Korea) • Patrick Chiu (Taiwan).

Day 4 – high service is the calm resolution of problems, disguised as elegance

Watching this competition is a true reward. It demonstrates the fruits of a comprehensive effort: the tireless work of regional sommelier associations – in partnership with ASI – and the constant drive to provide educational initiatives (such as the ASI Sommelier Guidelines), opportunities like ASI Bootcamp, and ASI certifications, including the ASI Diploma.

The audience settled in for the grand final – tension filled the hall. The semi-finalists’ names were announced in reverse order, and with each name the contestants drew closer to the top honour. When Patrick Chiu of Taiwan was announced in fourth place, a wave of anticipation swept over the remaining trio:

Yi Ying Yong (Malaysia – ASI Diploma Gold 2025 – participant of ASI Bootcamp 2025)
RatmirAkhmetov (Kazakhstan – ASI Diploma Gold 2020 – participant of ASI Bootcamp 2025)
Reeze Choi (China – ASI Diploma Gold 2020 – participant of ASI Bootcamp 2025).

The finalists stepped under the spotlights for the trial: multi-glass identification, high-speed service for a demanding table, and a menu-pairing pitch that could have served as an opening-night speech for a restaurant. The audience saw the craft—the candidates felt the maths. Everything happened live – the event was streamed worldwide.

The trio drew lots to determine the order of the final trials. Yi Ying Yong went first, plunging straight into a demanding sequence of service, tasting, and theoretical tasks—each designed to test even the most experienced sommelier at the limits of their abilities.

One by one, the finalists displayed mastery – keen palates, unshakable composure, and the elegance of service that defines the pinnacle of the profession. When the last task of the last contestant ended, silence fell. The judging results were due any minute.

After a pause that felt like an eternity for the participants, RatmirAkhmetov was awarded third place (second runner-up), leaving two contenders in tense anticipation. And then – amid a burst of applause – ASI President William Wouters announced the winner: the new ASI Best Sommelier of Asia & Pacific is Reeze Choi of China!

Winners: 1st place – Reeze Choi, China; 2nd place – Yi Ying Yong, Malaysia; 3rd place – Ratmir Akhmetov, Kazakhstan.

Why this competition matters

For the region, it is a moment of “levelling up”: more scholarships, stronger mentoring networks, and higher expectations from hotels and restaurants. For young sommeliers, it is proof that a global career can be built in Kuala Lumpur.

The competition concluded on Wednesday, 10 September, with the final and the coronation of the ASI Best Sommelier of Asia & Pacific 2025.

At the press conference, gold medallist Reeze Choi said he has been competing for 13 years – at 37 years old, almost a third of his life. Accepting this latest award, he thanked ASI, which he described as “not only an association but a big family – a family with whom he is growing and improving together.” He also thanked his family, especially his wife, who, he said, “worries a lot” while he prepares for competitions. He paid tribute to the Hong Kong Sommelier Association and his long-time mentor Henry Chang.

Asked what he plans to do next, he mentioned the upcoming World Championship in 2026 (held once every three years), where he stands a strong chance: he was a semi-finalist in 2019 and took third place in 2023. So we’ll be watching closely!

From the author

Together with DRINKS+ MEDIA GROUP, I would like to express my sincere gratitude to Ronald Willie Binati, President of the Sommelier Association of Malaysia, and his dedicated team for their warm hospitality and tireless efforts in organising this prestigious event. My heartfelt thanks also go to all partners and sponsors – global and local – whose support and faith made this competition possible and unforgettable.

We also congratulate all participants! Being chosen to represent one’s country is already an outstanding achievement and a great honour. The experience you have gained – together with new knowledge, skills, and contacts – will accompany you throughout your professional journey and help strengthen the bonds and spirit of our global wine community.

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Photo: @andykho, Solomiia Begun

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A Promising Year for California Vineyards

Winemakers are optimistic, as the favorable growing season promises high-quality grapes across California.

Harvest is already in full swing after a long and stable season. A cool spring and mild summer allowed the grapes to ripen gradually, instilling confidence among growers.

Каліфорнія

“So far, 2025 has been delightfully uneventful,” noted John Olney, head winemaker at Ridge Vineyards, which grows grapes in Sonoma County, the Santa Cruz Mountains, and Paso Robles. “If the weather holds, the right conditions are in placeforthis to be an outstanding vintage.”

In California this year, weather conditions proved exceptionally favorable for viticulture: winter rains enriched the soil, and from bud break to fruit set the conditions remained ideal. Despite localized differences in ripening and cluster size, fruit development stayed consistent. During harvest, moderate temperatures persisted without heat waves. The only serious incident was the Pickett Fire in Napa Valley, near Calistoga: it affected only a small area in the northeast and damaged about 3% of agricultural land, without significantly impacting the overall crop.

Каліфорнія

Winemakers predict that the 2025 vintage will be marked by concentration of flavor and balance: reds by depth and structure, whites by bright acidity and precision.

Concentrated Aromas and Bright Acidity

The hallmark of the 2025 harvest is the combination of an intense bouquet and pronounced acidity.

“After important and intensive sorting, I don’t think I have ever tasted Pinot Noir with the intensity of flavor that we are experiencing this year,” said Ted Lemon, founder of Littorai Wines in Sonoma County.

Early varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay stand out with vibrant natural acidity and purity of fruit notes, while Cabernet Sauvignon shows promising depth and potential for aging.

On the Central Coast, after one of the coolest summers on record, winemakers note excellent color and flavor intensity in red varieties, which continue to ripen on the vines.

Каліфорнія

“There’s elegance, but boldness to the fruit,” said Caine Thompson, managing director of Robert Hall Winery in Paso Robles. “It’s looking like a pretty phenomenal vintage.”

Old-Vine Zinfandel and the Central Coast

California’s old-vine Zinfandel plantings show great promise for the 2025 harvest, particularly in the Lodi region. The cool summer helped preserve fresh acidity and concentrated flavors across all varieties, with Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc standing out in particular.

Каліфорнія

“Thanks to close collaboration between winemakers and growers, we were able to achieve our goals and ensure exceptional quality,” noted Aaron P. Lange, president of Lange Twins Family Vineyards & Winery in Acampo.

However, some winemakers, including John Williams of Frog’s Leap Winery in Napa Valley, remain cautious in their forecasts: “We’ve been in situations before where we thought we had a perfect harvest. So we won’t count our chickens yet, but we’re certainly admiring the eggs,” commented the winemaker.

The Vintage in the Words of Winemakers

Richie Allen, vice president of viticulture and winemaking at Rombauer Vineyards, Napa Valley: “Yields are consistently good with great acidsand flavors. 2025 is shaping up to be another high-quality year.”

Elizabeth Vianna, winemaker and CEO of Chimney Rock Winery, Napa Valley: “Impressions on quality thus far are extremely positive. All things are pointing to a great new vintage.”

Lee Martinelli Jr., owner of Martinelli Winery & Vineyards, Sonoma County: “We have picked a slow pace for the last three weeks and the fruit looks great.The flavors are nice and balanced.”

Niki Wente, director of vineyard operations at Wente Vineyards, Livermore Valley: “We are optimistic that the 2025 harvest will produce wines of both freshness and depth.”

A complete overview and final details on the 2025 harvest across California will be presented in the comprehensive 2025 Harvest Report from Wine Institute later this fall.

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Winemakers are optimistic, as the favorable growing season promises high-quality grapes across California. Harvest is already in full swing after a long and stable season. A cool spring and mild summer allowed the grapes to ripen gradually, instilling confidence among growers. “So far, 2025 has been delightfully uneventful,” noted John Olney, head winemaker at Ridge […]

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Notes from Mundus Vini Summer Tasting 2025. Chasing the Elwetritsch

Every competition has its own rhythm. At Mundus Vini this summer, ours began not with a glass in hand, but with a gift: a tiny Elwetritsch. A mythical creature of the Palatinate, half-bird, half-fantasy, always playful and impossible to catch. The perfect symbol, I thought, for what we do as tasters – chasing the elusive, the surprising, the not-yet-familiar.

The days quickly found their tempo: long tables, a row of glasses lined like soldiers, and yet behind each one – a different world. Across my flights, the spectrum stretched wide: the shy perfume of Hárslevelű, the floral excess of Muscat, the crisp edge of Šarba, the gentle sweetness of Scheurebe. Then came the Balkan voices – Melnik from Bulgaria, Trnak from Croatia, Vranac and Kratošija from North Macedonia. Wines that rarely headline international stages, but here they suddenly stood under the same spotlight as Chianti Classico.

Mundus Vini

That is perhaps the quiet magic of such gatherings: a chance for less celebrated varieties to step forward, to be heard beyond their borders. You never know which glass will turn the room silent, which sip will make the jury lean in, curious, alert. Sometimes, it is not the famous names that make you pause; it is the outsiders – the grapes you have barely written about, the labels you have never seen before.

And the jury itself is its own mosaic. In my panel alone: a Slovenian enologist, a Polish editor, an Italian buyer – each with different instincts, vocabulary, and expectations of what “quality” should mean. Agreement is never automatic; it is built, discussed, and sometimes argued. And that is the beauty: tasting becomes not just judgment, but dialogue, a weaving of perspectives into something more substantial than a single opinion.

Mundus Vini

Beyond medals and scores, competitions are rehearsals of trust. Winemakers entrust us with their work, risks, and hopes in liquid form. We, in return, lend our palate, our attention, and our attempt to listen fairly. The Elwetritsche, of course, remains uncaught – but perhaps that is the point. In competitions like these, no one is chasing medals alone. We are chasing stories, origins, and the possibility that an unknown grape from a small hillside might suddenly feel universal.

Burgenland: A Journey into Austria’s Eastern Treasure

There is a special kind of magic at Mundus Vini. Beyond the blind tastings, points, and medals, it is about those rare moments when you step outside the judging room and suddenly find yourself immersed in a wine region – not on paper, but through people, bottles, and stories. This time, it was Burgenland, Austria’s eastern jewel, unfolding its many faces.

Mundus

Framed by Lake Neusiedl and the Pannonian Plain, Burgenland is a land where the sun shines generously, breezes temper the heat, and Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Weissburgunder, and Chardonnay each tell their own stories.

The variety of wines at the Burgenland evening at the Winzergarten restaurant in Großkarlbach felt like a dialogue between generations.

Bayer-Erbhof showed what happens when curiosity meets heritage: experimentation with roots firmly planted in Burgenland soil.

Granitsteinfass Sauvignon Blanc untouched was a manifesto – a wine left pure, without unnecessary interference.
Leithaberg DAC Chardonnay spoke of minerality and limestone precision.
Leithaberg DAC Grüner Veltliner Ried Himmelreich carried the brightness of sunshine with golden edges.
Leithaberg DAC Blaufränkisch Martinsberg Ried has a balanced structure and spice with effortless grace.

Where Bayer whispers, Giefing performs. Their labels, painted with bold, artistic imagery, are as expressive as the wines.

Blaufränkisch Reserve stood tall, a confident flagship.
Marco Polo promised adventure, evoking voyages and discovery.
Cardinal wore its red robe with authority, deep and commanding.

These wines had something of the “Super Tuscan spirit” – but with unmistakably Austrian soul.

In Rust, time flows differently. It is the cradle of the legendary Ruster Ausbruch, and the Schandl family embodies that heritage with quiet confidence.

Peter Schandl poured a glass of rosé: bright, delicate, unpretentious. It wasn’t a wine that shouted; it was a wine that trusted you to listen. That is the strength of Schandl – elegance rooted in history.

At Weingut MAD’s table, the atmosphere shifted to focus and gravity. Their Leithaberg DAC Blaufränkisch was like a professor in a finely tailored suit: precise, structured, demanding attention. A wine that doesn’t seek to entertain but to teach, to show terroir in its purest, most disciplined form.

The Icons

Among the names of Burgenland present were some of Austria’s brightest stars:

Umathum, biodynamic pioneer, whose rosé has achieved cult status.
Gebrüder Nittnaus, internationally acclaimed for biodynamic single-vineyard Blaufränkisch.
Ernst Triebaumer, with the legendary Mariental Blaufränkisch, a wine that defines Burgenland’s global reputation.

The Essence of Burgenland at Mundus Vini

To walk through these tastings was to experience a microcosm of Burgenland itself:

the bold experimentation of Bayer,
the expressive storytelling of Giefing,
the historic confidence of Schandl,
the discipline and terroir focus of Mad,
and the international prestige of Umathum, Nittnaus, and Triebaumer.

Burgenland is not one voice but a choir – sometimes harmonious, sometimes contrasting, always authentic. At Mundus Vini, this diversity came alive not as a theoretical map, but as glasses in hand, conversations across tables, and stories shared between sips.

Loire Valley: Hidden Treasures of Cabernet Franc

If Burgenland is Austria’s sun-drenched east, then the Loire is France’s flowing soul – free, wild, and endlessly diverse. The river is not only a geographic axis but a lifeline: it shapes the soils, the people, and the wines. To sit at a Loire masterclass during Mundus Vini felt less like a lecture and more like embarking on a river journey, where each bend revealed another face of Cabernet Franc.

Loire

Birte Jantzen, DipWSET, wine journalist and critic, guided the session with precision and warmth, showing how this grape can shift effortlessly from light and floral to deep and structured – always with a whisper of freshness that only the Loire can give.

Wine 1 – Maison Ackerman, Les Sables – Château La Varière (Anjou, 2023)

90% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Clay-limestone & clay-gravel soils
The opener was lively yet grounded: bright redcurrant and raspberry, a crunch of cherry skin, lifted by floral notes of violet. The Cabernet Sauvignon added a touch of grip and darker fruit, but the soul remained pure Cabernet Franc – linear, energetic, with a saline edge that felt like the Loire’s signature.

Wine 2 – Dumnacus Vigneron, Origines (Chinon, 2023)

100% Cabernet Franc
Clay-limestone soils
Chinon came in with a more serious tone: graphite and pencil shavings wrapped around a core of black cherry. The fruit was darker, and the tannins were more pronounced but silky. A wine with backbone – the kind that makes you imagine roast duck or even charcuterie by the fire.

Wine 3 – Frédéric Mabileau (Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, 2021)

100% Cabernet Franc – Organic
The perfume took over: wild strawberries, peonies, a leafy freshness that felt like walking through a forest in spring. It danced between lightness and structure on the palate – a paradox of being both serious and playful. The organic touch seemed to heighten the purity, with a clean, lingering finish.

Wine 4 – Château Fouquet (Saumur, 2021)

100% Cabernet Franc – Organic & Biodynamic
This was Saumur at its finest: the clay-limestone depth gave a wine of remarkable elegance. Aromas of red plum, crushed herbs, and a mineral streak whispered of wet stone. The biodynamic energy gave the wine an almost tactile vibrancy, a heartbeat in the glass.

Wine 5 – Famille Cognard (Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, 2020)

100% Cabernet Franc – Organic
Clay-siliceous slopes with limestone crust
Here, Cabernet Franc turned richer, with layers of blackberry, liquorice, and subtle cocoa. The siliceous soils added a touch of warmth and generosity, while the limestone spine kept it from ever feeling heavy – a wine with charisma – both charming and grounded.

Wine 6 – Domaine Olga Raffault, Les Picasses (Chinon, 2020)

100% Cabernet Franc – Organic & Biodynamic
Clay-limestone soils
The finale was a benchmark. Olga Raffault’s Les Picasses is a name whispered with reverence among Loire lovers, and this 2020 showed why – structured yet elegant, with aromas of cassis, dried rose, tobacco leaf, and graphite. The tannins were polished, the acidity vibrant, and the finish long, echoing with mineral purity. A wine that will age gracefully, telling stories for decades.

Loire

The Loire’s Voice at Mundus Vini

Through this flight, the Loire revealed not just wines, but philosophies:

Ackerman showed approachability and brightness,
Dumnacus brought seriousness and graphite tension,
Mabileau charmed with perfume and lightness,
Fouquet expressed biodynamic vitality,
Cognard delivered depth and charisma,
Raffault closed with gravitas and timelessness.

Together, they proved why the Loire is both a wellspring and a bridge – connecting terroirs, histories, and styles into a mosaic that never stops evolving.

Iryna Diachenkova, co-founder of Drinks+ Media Group and Wine Travel Awards:

Three days at the end of August in the heart of the Palatinate became a kaleidoscope of vivid impressions – impressions from wines and interactions with colleagues, impressions from new knowledge. And even if it sounds a little emotional and sentimental, what a pleasure it is to taste the best wines of the world alongside top experts from different spheres: trade professionals who know consumer tastes like no one else, oenologists and sales managers, journalists, sommeliers, and representatives of wine institutions. Over the past two years, the organizers have significantly refreshed the tasters community, keeping the backbone while adding “new blood.” The tasting panels work like truly unified organisms. And although wine is an inherently subjective product, in our team, which included representatives from Germany, Austria, Poland, Morocco, and Ukraine, we almost always aligned in our assessments, sometimes coinciding exactly in the points awarded. It was a real pleasure to work in such an atmosphere, under a highly qualified chairman, Christian Zechmeister, head of Wein Burgenland. At the heart of such a positive experience, of course, was the very high overall level of the wines in the competition.

The crowning glory of our committee’s tastings were the final two flights, where every wine earned recognition. Among eight Tempranillos from Rioja (vintages 2016-2022), seven received Gold and one was awarded Double Gold. The flight of eight Australian Cabernet Sauvignons (2021-2023) was just slightly behind the Spanish line-up: six Golds and two Silvers. Simply superb wines all around!

The real challenge lies in the competition for Silver medals: among wines scoring 85-89 points, those closer to the lower end are usually eliminated – the so-called 40% rule applies. As a result, several Ukrainian samples with scores of 86+ points, unfortunately, did not receive a medal, although their creators earned a worthy evaluation for their work. After all, participating in a competition of this caliber provides an opportunity to test a product, verify whether the producer is on the right track, and, of course, send a signal to consumers by winning awards.

That is why prestigious wines such as Barolo, Amarone, and wines from Napa Valley, Champagne, and Burgundy are regular participants. That is why Ukrainian company SHABO, which has collected hundreds of awards worldwide, is among the winners of the Mundus Vini Summer Tasting 2025, receiving four Gold and one Silver medal for its 2023 vintage wines.

Mundus Vini has a well-established tradition of tastings held outside the official evaluation sessions and program. No points are awarded here – the focus is purely on emotions and experience. For these informal tastings, jury members often bring wines from their own countries, and sometimes even their own productions. This time, Drinks+ did not come empty-handed, bringing Suholimansky 2024 My Wine by Eduard Gorodetsky and Alibernet Reserve 2022 from GIGI Winery. Both wines were met with great interest and a very positive reception.

Suholimansky, with its new stylish label, impressed with a fresh, lively character, a magnificent aroma featuring floral and citrus notes, and a balanced, fruity taste. Only the pronunciation of the variety caused some initial difficulties, but real professionals handled it easily, but real professionals handled it easily. Interestingly, one of the permanent Mundus Vini judges, Davide Bortone, editor-in-chief of winemag.it, had visited Eduard Gorodetsky in Ukraine just last year.

Alibernet, or Odesa Black, is much easier for foreigners to pronounce and remember. I am sure that the sample from GIGI Winery also stayed in the memory of colleagues – their feedback was so positive. Personally, I was very impressed with the style: the winemaker managed to highlight all the best characteristics of Odesa Black. The wine showed fruitiness, velvety fine tannins, excellent structure, and a rich taste without heaviness. It is a wine you want to drink right now, yet it clearly promises to become even more elegant with time. And if this wine had been presented at the competition, it would undoubtedly have received gold.

Mundus Vini

Mundus Vini is a competition with a unique charm, creating the perfect atmosphere for tasters to work and professionally evaluate wines. It is trusted worldwide, and its awards carry undeniable authority and influence. The results of the summer session can be found here.

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Tastevinage: 75 Years of Wine Elegance in the Heart of Burgundy

Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy, September 5. The legendary château, a Wine Travel Awards winner, hosted an exclusive tasting as part of Tastevinage – a landmark event for Burgundy wines. As previously announced, this year’s 116th edition was truly special: Tastevinage marked its 75th anniversary, bringing together winemakers, sommeliers, journalists, and representatives of the BIVB, OIV, and other international organizations. Drinks+ enogastronomic editor Oleksandra Minenko-Decamps took part in this remarkable tasting and shared her impressions.

Wine Ceremony at the Grand Cellier

The tasting unfolded in the Grand Cellier, where a central podium displayed the brotherhood’s motto: “Jamais en vain, toujours en vin” (“Never in vain, always in wine”). The atmosphere blended ceremony with warm closeness. At each table, five tasters blind-tasted wines – bottles concealed in black cases bearing the golden Tastevinage emblem.

Guest of Honor – Marc Veyrat

The event was opened by Arnaud Orsel, intendant général of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. Grand Maître Jean-François Curie also addressed the audience before passing the floor to the guest of honor, the legendary chef Marc Veyrat.

As this year’s Tastevinage ambassador, Veyrat was selecting the wines and dishes for the gala dinner, as well as for the wine list of his restaurant, which follows his guiding principle: “First the wines, then the cuisine.” His presence carried a special symbolism: just like Tastevinage, he is celebrating his 75th anniversary. Known as the “chef from the Alps,” Veyrat is renowned for his natural cuisine rooted in herbs and flowers, while his iconic black hat is more than an element of his style – it is a profound symbol of his connection to Savoyard traditions.

Marc’s speech was particularly touching. He reminisced about his childhood in the mountains of Annecy, where his family owned a mountain tavern. Often, he accompanied his grandfather while herding goats, and after school, his grandfather would hand him a hat filled with wild berries. This simple gesture came to symbolize Veyrat’s deep connection with nature and his roots. With a touch of humor, he concluded: “There is one thing that cannot be taken away – the name Marc Veyrat with a hat.”

Tasting: 13 Wines and 2 Stars

At the tasting table where I was lucky enough to sit, 13 wines were presented: Crémant de Bourgogne, Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru, and wines from Beaujolais, with vintages ranging from 2015 to 2024.

The evaluation focused not on personal taste but on whether the wines met the standards of brilliance, typicity of the vintage, and eligibility to carry the prestigious Tastevinage label. The most outstanding were awarded the distinction Major – “Coup de Cœur”, meaning wines that tasters would proudly serve at their own tables and recommend to friends.

Among the favorites:

Crémant de Bourgogne – fresh and lively, with sparkling citrus notes, fine bubbles, and a graceful lightness. A perfect aperitif to lift the mood and highlight the flavors of herbs.
Chablis – pure and insightful, like a summer morning, with minerality and elegant acidity that gives structure. Subtle notes of green apple and white fruit complete the delicate profile.

I would especially like to highlight the cuvée Mâcon-Vergisson Blanc 2022 from Héléna Hortega, which received the “Coup de Cœur” distinction and was recognized as one of the best wines of the 2025 edition. The winery’s owner described the award as a sign of confidence in the younger generation of winemakers.

Professional Community

Among the guests was BIVB representative Nadia Missa-El Hanbali, who coordinates tastings and educational sessions in the region. Her presence highlighted the strong ties between Burgundy’s winegrowers and international organizations.

It was a special honor for me to taste the wines alongside Hosam Eldin Abou Eleyoun, President of ASI Lombardia, and Monsieur Jean-Marc Brocard, owner of Domaine Brocard, whose winery was also among the Tastevinage winners.

I’d like to respect: of the 13 wines presented at our table, only two received the “Coup de Cœur” distinction – a true testament to the strict standards of the selection.

The full list of this year’s winners can be found here.

Photo, Cocktail, and Traditions

A black-and-white photo zone created an atmosphere of immersion in the past. A festive cocktail concluded the evening: appetizers and desserts were adorned with flowers, and guests tasted Crémant, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir from the village of Maranges – the venue for Saint Vincent Tournante in 2026.

And finally, a charming tradition of Burgundian confrères, popularized by Tastevinage: at the close of the celebration, the Burgundians sing a song of thanks in chorus – honoring the friendly feast, the harvests, the good wines, and the magical world around them.

Inside View: Chevalier’s Thoughts

Nadia Missa-El Hanbali, Chevalier, Tastevinage jury member and manager of the Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne (Beaune):

Among the wines tasted this year, I was particularly impressed by the Mercurey Rouge 2023. Its juicy texture and freshness, highlighted by notes of red berries with a subtle hint of blueberries, created a true pleasure. The impact of climate change is becoming increasingly noticeable – in warmer years, wines tend to have higher alcohol content, which alters the balance.

The organization was impeccable, and the presence of Marc Veyrat added a symbolic significance to the event. Interacting with the jury members was extremely valuable, thanks to the diversity of perspectives. The black-and-white photo booth was especially memorable — a wonderful idea for capturing timeless memories.

Helena Hotea, Chevalier Tastevinage, owner of Le Domaine Hotea:

Among the favorites of my tasting panel was the Crémant de Bourgogne. The other wines seemed rather average. I don’t believe this is due to warming; rather, it reflects changes in the winemakers’ practices. Commercial wines are not aged on the lees long enough to fully “develop.”

However, the event itself was of the highest level. The venue is wonderful, and the encounters with remarkable people are truly unforgettable.

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Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy, September 5. The legendary château, a Wine Travel Awards winner, hosted an exclusive tasting as part of Tastevinage – a landmark event for Burgundy wines. As previously announced, this year’s 116th edition was truly special: Tastevinage marked its 75th anniversary, bringing together winemakers, sommeliers, journalists, and representatives of the BIVB, OIV, and other […]

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Germany for Ukrainian wine: an opportunity worth seizing

In recent years, Ukrainian winemaking has taken a remarkable step forward: quality has risen, exports to the EU and beyond have grown, and international recognition is steadily building. Among Europe’s markets, Germany stands out as one of the most promising. But will it truly open a “window of opportunity” for Ukrainian wines – and what must winemakers do to seize it? Victoria Makarova, our author and Wines of Ukraine representative, who has been living in Germany for over three years, takes a closer look.

Most people still see the image of Germany as a “beer country,” shaped by stereotypes, traditions, and the world-famous Oktoberfest. Yet as one spends more time here than the average tourist, a different picture emerges: Germans are the nation of wine drinkers. In my own very unscientific and informal “survey” of supermarket shopping baskets, wine appeared more frequently than beer. Of course, this observation is highly subjective, also considering that I live in the southern “wine country”, the so-called Badische Weinstraße, so consumer preferences may well differ in northern or eastern regions.

Still, Germany is undeniably a major wine-producing country, and German consumers tend to be quite patriotic about their wines. A few numbers illustrate the point. According to the Federal Statistical Office (Statistisches Bundesamt), Germany produced 7.75 million hectoliters of wine in 2024. Meanwhile, the German Wine Institute (Deutsches Weininstitut) reports that only 1.2 million hectoliters were exported. While this figure shows a modest increase compared to 2023, the fact remains: Germans drink about 85% of their own wine.

So, is there room for imports? Absolutely. With a population of more than 84 million, Germany currently imports between 14 and 15 million hectoliters of wine annually – putting it on par with the world’s largest wine importer, the United States. That said, this leadership is in terms of volume only. When it comes to the value of imports, Germany ranks third, with less than €3 billion in annual wine imports, trailing behind the U.S. and the U.K.

What exactly is being imported? France, Italy, and Spain together account for 81% of Germany’s total wine imports by both value and volume. For years, Italy has been the undisputed leader, but Spain is now hot on its heels. If the trends of 2024 continue, Spain is expected to overtake Italy by the end of the year. Austria and the U.S. also posted noticeable growth in 2024, so this year’s numbers will be interesting to watch. The race is on.

Німеччина

German consumer preferences have shifted noticeably in recent years. Red wine consumption has been steadily declining, while white wines are on the rise. Sparkling wines are also enjoying increasing popularity, with Crémant stealing much of the spotlight. Although the German market has long favored aged red wines from Spain, Spanish white wines are now carving out a growing share. At the same time, consumers are paying closer attention to sustainable and environmentally friendly winemaking methods, so Bio and Organic certifications are becoming very common even on affordable wines.

Price remains one of the most decisive factors for wine imports to Germany, especially when it comes to the mass market. German consumers are famously “spoiled” by extraordinarily low prices, particularly for imported wines on supermarket shelves. I no longer find it surprising that perfectly decent “daily wines” at Lidl or Aldi can be bought for €3–5. Of course, these are not masterpieces or fine wines, but rather solid, reliable options for the average consumer.

Aldi and Lidl, Germany’s powerful discount retailers, are widely recognized outside the country, while domestically, nearly every German shops there at least once in a while. It’s worth noting that while Germans are prepared to pay more for truly high-quality products, they also love a good bargain and remain loyal to the so-called “Every Day Low Price” (EDLP) model. Do these low prices compromise quality? Hardly. Both Aldi and Lidl take quality and consistency seriously – and that includes their wine imports. Thanks to consumer trust and professional buying teams attuned to global trends, these discounters can afford to experiment with their selections. That’s why I always keep an eye on Aldi’s Saisonale Weinlese – the seasonal wine offers. There’s almost always something new and worth discovering, for a very affordable price, though usually available only in limited batches.

In addition to imports handled by the major retailers, Germany has a large number of importing companies and specialized shops that bring wines directly from producers. The leader among specialist wine retailers is the Jacques’ Weindepot chain, which operates more than 300 franchises across the country. Recently, the network became part of the Hawesko Holding group – a heavyweight player with an annual turnover of more than €600 million.

Among the major importers worth mentioning are Reidemeister und Ulrichs, part of the renowned Rotkäppchen-Mumm group, with a vast portfolio that includes both well-known and niche producers, and Mack & Schühle, an importer of wine and spirits with an annual import volume of 120 million bottles and a division focused especially on organic wines.

Still, large importers don’t cover the full scope of Germany’s wine demand, especially when it comes to niche, distinctive wines rather than the mass market.

Considering the style, quality, production volumes, and pricing policy of Ukrainian craft wineries, this is precisely the segment that looks most promising for them. To learn how niche importers scout and select producers, I spoke with Bruno Hamm, Purchasing and Sales Director at M.A.X.X Weine and a long-term MUNDUS VINI jury member.

M.A.X.X Weine is an importing company specializing in carefully selected wines from Spain, Portugal, Italy, Austria, France, and Hungary. Its portfolio holds plenty of gems: in Spain, for example, not only Rioja, Ribera del Duero, and DO Cava, but also the legendary Priorat, the underrated regions of La Mancha, Jumilla, and Empordà, as well as refined sparkling wines from the Corpinnat collective in Penedès.

Bruno Hamm

So, what does it take for a producer to make it into the M.A.X.X Weine portfolio? “A new wine or producer has to fill a specific gap in our range. It needs to be a product with clear market demand. Exclusive distribution rights are a plus, but not essential – the decisive factor is whether the overall market situation is favorable for such a product,” explains Bruno Hamm.

Bruno has previously sampled Ukrainian wines at the Wines of Ukraine stand at ProWein, giving them high marks for quality. Drawing on that experience, I asked him for some strategic advice for Ukrainian producers targeting the German market: what are the DOs and DON’Ts they should keep in mind?

“A winery must have a clear strategy if it wants to enter the German market. Specialized retailers and discounters, for example, are very hard to combine – you need to decide whether you want to work through an intermediary (B2B), through retail (B2C), or directly with end consumers (for instance, by opening your own shop). Working with an intermediary like M.A.X.X requires a solid margin – between 50 and 70% – which needs to be factored in between the producer’s price and the final consumer price. Roughly speaking, this means that the ex-works price and the end consumer price (including all costs such as transport, Green Dot, etc.) should be multiplied by 3–3.5 to arrive at the retail shelf price (including VAT). Transparency of online trade makes this almost impossible! If, for example, your wines can be found cheaper online, cooperation with a distributor doesn’t make sense,” Mr Hamm comments.

Do wines from lesser-known regions unfamiliar to the average German consumer stand a chance on this market at all? According to Bruno Hamm, they do, but it requires some effort. Germans are more easily drawn to wines from regions where they often vacation. Still, even Portugal and Greece – both hugely popular holiday destinations – have managed to gain only a modest share of the German wine market over the past 15 years. So, tourism is not the only factor here.

One thing is certain: without high-quality marketing and communication, it’s nearly impossible to succeed in the German market – just as in any other. Participating in ProWein once a year can hardly be considered a solid strategy, even though the Messe itself remains a highly effective platform for networking and forging partnerships. Still, selling wine in Germany takes more than good products – it requires strong, professional communication.

Several marketing and communication agencies in Germany focus on the wine and gastronomy sectors. One of the most successful is Organize Communications, with a solid track record of supporting non-German winemakers. Their customer range includes Wines of California, Wines of Portugal and Wines of Greece, as well as individual producers. Barbara Wanner, the co-founder, says each project comes with unique challenges and goals – whether for wine-producing countries, wine regions, or specific wineries. For “launching” customers who are relatively unknown in Germany, the first step is to build market presence and educational frameworks from the ground up. They’re gaining traction in both visibility and value – and that’s showing up in their sales figures.

Barbara Wanner

Mrs Wanner believes that the biggest challenge foreign winemakers have to face is finding strong and reliable distribution partners. “Germany is a saturated and mature market – we import widely, domestic production has improved significantly. Even though the overall consumption is slowly declining in line with global trends, the often-quoted numbers such as an average supermarket price per liter, do not reflect the strength of the premium or fine wine segments – which are very much alive and well. Yet at the moment, the trade is cautious. Many importers have slimmed down their portfolios, and very few are willing to take risks on unknown names, even though consumers’ appetite for new wines hasn’t gone away. That’s where we come in: we work hand in hand with distributors to create not just awareness, but actual demand – through education, storytelling, brand positioning, and customized activations that turn interest into measurable sales.”

Which “emerging” wine countries or regions hold potential in the German market? According to Barbara, cultural and geographical proximity matter a lot: “Wines from regions that resonate with the German lifestyle – places we travel to, enjoy the food of, or have personal ties to – tend to succeed faster. Greece is a great example: for years, Greek wines were undervalued here, but now, guests at Greek restaurants expect to find ambitious and well-curated wine lists. We’ve seen similar developments with Portuguese, Spanish and of course the benchmark “Italian” cuisine, and we’re likely to see more from Turkey, as more high-quality Turkish restaurants are gaining ground”.

Beyond cultural affinity, indigenous grape varieties, original wine styles, and authentic stories are increasingly resonating – especially with sommeliers and wine enthusiasts who value discovery and depth. “Don’t try to be everything to everyone. Focus on signature wines that genuinely reflect your identity. Start by investing in education and showing experts why your wines matter. The German market rewards consistency and visibility, so maintaining a presence is key – through events, social media, and by building a network of ambassadors,” Mrs. Wanner concludes.

So, will Germany become a major new market for Ukrainian wine? That depends on whether winemakers are ready to engage with the challenges it presents. Yet I am confident: Ukrainian producers are more than capable of conquering Germany. This story is only just beginning.

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Photo: Bradley W., facebook.com/BadischeWeinstrasse, Victoria Makarova, AD LUMINA for MUNDUS VINI

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Less Elitism, More Value: Can Wine Win Over Generation Z?

The wine industry is suffering from a global decline in consumption. Is the real problem that young people are turning away from alcohol – and what will it take for the industry to stay relevant to Generation Z? Victoria Makarova explores the issue.

Alcoholic beverages were always present in our household culture – my parents never made a taboo of it (though they certainly didn’t encourage it either). Drinks were kept in a special drawer called the “bar,” mirrored on the inside, always filled with the dense aroma of vermouth, port, and cognac. My first experience with wine happened when I was around 14. It was a risky operation. My friend and I were inspecting the treasures of my parents’ “bar” and decided to taste Sandeman, simply because we loved the bottle. The tasting couldn’t have been more than 50 ml between the two of us, but we repeated the experiment – and eventually had to top up the missing liquid with sugar water. We carried out such experiments several times until we were caught when the undissolved sugar gave us away in an opened bottle of a semi-sweet sparkling, which, eventually, turned sweet due to our intervention. A more serious acquaintance with wines and spirits came during my student years, but only around the age of 30 did I begin to take an interest in dry wines, eventually becoming a confident wine lover.

My path toward understanding wine and wine culture is a typical story of Generation X, which came of age long before those we now call “Zoomers.” Generation Z and their consumption – or rather, non-consumption – of alcohol has worried the industry for several years: producers link the decline in wine sales in many countries to this very group, fearing an alcohol-free future. So what exactly is happening with young people – and is this really influencing overall consumption levels?

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Let’s start with some statistics. Winemakers do have reasons to complain: the numbers confirm the decline, particularly those presented in the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) report State of the World Vine and Wine Sector in 2024. According to the OIV, wine consumption in the EU in 2024 dropped by 5.2% compared to the five-year average, while wine production decreased by 3.5% compared to 2023. The EU remains the largest wine market in the world, with a volume of 103.6 million hectoliters, accounting for 48% of global consumption. Compared to 2023, the market shrank by 2.8% in 2024, and by 5.2% relative to the five-year average. The decline is attributed to falling demand in the leading traditional wine-producing countries. Globally, around 214.2 million hectoliters of wine were consumed in 2024 – 3.3% less than in 2023.

Analyzing these figures, industry representatives concluded that the root of the problem lies with Generation Z, who, according to some data, drink far less than their predecessors. One hypothesis, widely used by marketers today, is that Generation Z is risk-averse – they drink less alcohol, have less sex, and drive less recklessly compared to earlier generations. Some psychologists support this view. For instance, Richard Weissbourd, a lecturer at Harvard University, notes that this shift is driven not only by parenting styles but also by broader social and cultural factors. Surveys show that young people are most concerned about financial insecurity, academic pressure, and a feeling that the world is “falling apart.” Many avoid potential dangers and challenges, leaving little room for mistakes. Alcohol consumption in general – and wine in particular – also falls into the risk zone for this generation, says Weissbourd.

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Research is important, of course – but who can better explain the habits and preferences of Generation Z and create the right product for them than the “Zoomers” themselves? About a year ago, Young Poets Wine, a winemaking brand from Germany, caught my attention on Instagram. The first thing that stood out was the very professional yet unconventional communication: clever ideas, plenty of humor, smart copywriting, simple yet distinctive visuals, and a lot of engaging video content.

On the Young Poets Wine website, I learned more about the company’s concept: its founder, Elia Werner, a representative of Generation Z, brought together under his brand’s “umbrella” several young winemakers from different regions – Germany’s Pfalz and Baden-Württemberg, as well as Italy’s Apulia (Eliah actually says Austria is coming soon, too). The Young Poet’ range offers clean, vibrant, approachable, and drinkable wines with a distinct character and very original names.

“We try to think out of the box, or rather, out of the bottle – and we focus on what really matters to the younger generation of consumers,” Elia Werner told me. “Young Poets is the wine that speaks in a clear, accessible language. No châteaux, no gold foil, no overcomplication – just clean design, honest storytelling, and great winemakers from Germany and beyond. Each wine is accompanied by a short poem, and behind every bottle there is a real person – a winemaker, or as we call them, a Young Poet.”

Elia’s idea is to offer young consumers exactly what they want: simplicity, lightness, humor – along with meaningful messages. “Wine may often seem complicated – we make it easy and intuitive. Our wines have names like Fifty Shades of GRAUBRGNDR, Never Say No to PRMTVO, Allday RSÉ, or Everything Happens for a RSLNG. The names are a bit tongue-in-cheek and playful because, in my opinion, wine should make you smile even before you take your first sip. For young people, the social mission also matters. With every bottle sold, we donate part of the proceeds to charity projects that help children learn to read – so that in the future, more young poets can emerge,” the brand’s founder explains.

According to Elia Werner, wine for Generation Z must be good, expressive, and approachable – as well as tasty and suitable for any moment, whether it’s a party, a picnic in the park, or just an ordinary evening at home. Young consumers are open to new things and don’t place much importance on tradition. Chilled reds? Super. White wine in a can? Great – eco-friendly, sustainable and fun. As long as the taste delivers and the vibe feels right — the wine is fine for Gen Z.

“Wine has become too coded – too many rules, too much refinement and prestige, and too little joy,” Elia reflects. “It feels like you’ve come to a party without knowing the dress code, and everyone is speaking the complicated language of tasting notes.” In his view, Zoomers are curious but dislike pretentiousness. If the wine industry doesn’t adapt its tone, culture, and branding, it risks becoming irrelevant to this new generation of potential wine lovers. But Elia sees not only challenges here, but also great opportunities: “Win young consumers over with fruit-forward, easy-going, drinkable wines, build emotional attachment to your brand, and later on you can introduce them to more exclusive, premium wines. Start with fun, stay for depth.”

And now – the cherry on top. The latest Bevtrac study by IWSR (the global leader in beverage alcohol data and analytics) found that Generation Z is not turning away from alcohol, as previously thought. On the contrary – their consumption is actually rising. Between March 2023 and March 2025, the share of Gen Zers of legal drinking age who had consumed alcohol in the past six months grew from 66% to 73%, with particularly sharp increases recorded in the U.S. (46%→70%), the U.K. (66%→76%), and Australia (61%→83%). The study confirms that Gen Z’s drinking habits now hardly differ from those of other generations. Zoomers tend to experiment more with different categories of alcoholic beverages, lean slightly more toward spirits, and consume alcohol more frequently in bars, restaurants, and clubs compared to older age groups.

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While overall trends point to more moderate drinking across all age groups, Gen Z is not drinking less – in fact, many say they’ve been drinking more recently. Experts explain the earlier slight decline by economic factors rather than wellness trends. IWSR believes it’s simply a matter of waiting until Generation Z starts earning more – and spending more on alcohol, including in the premium segment. So the future of the alcohol market is likely less dramatic than some media portray it.

After all, the wine industry must reinvent its approach to a younger generation unwilling to tolerate arrogance or needless complication. Zoomers are not rejecting wine – they are reinterpreting it. They don’t need “exclusivity,” and they won’t respond to a condescending tone.

To win Generation Z, brands should speak their language, tell genuine stories, demonstrate values (sustainability, craftsmanship, identity, social mission, etc.), and focus on innovation rather than “heritage and tradition.” Old legends and outdated messages no longer resonate. Special attention should also be given to digitalization (hello, TikTok, Instagram, and online sales).

Stripping wine of its aura of elitism is a difficult but necessary step for the industry’s survival. The real question isn’t whether younger generations will drink, but what they’ll choose. Today’s biggest challenge for winemakers and marketers is learning to speak their language – and there’s every reason to believe they will succeed.

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Photo: Brad Neathery, Maria Lysenko, young-poets-wine.com, Mahesh Patel, Beth Jnr

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