Gastronomy and Wine Portal

On the Georgian tourists’ map, Marani Tadeoz Guramishvili is one of the brightest landmarks of the country’s historic heritage.

In 2015, Kakhetian Traditional Winery (KTW), one of Georgia’s most renowned companies, completed an ambitious project related to the Company’s historic mission, which is being implemented by it for several years.

It should be emphasized that perhaps one of the most important projects was realized in Saguramo in Mtskheta area. It is associated with restoration of the legacy of Ilia Chavchavadze, whom his contemporaries considered the “Uncrowned King of Georgia” and the church canonized, giving the name of Saint Ilia the Righteous.

KTW has restored a monument of cultural heritage: marani wine cellar of Tadeoz Guramishvili, Prince Chavchavadze’s father-in-law. Today, it is not only a landmark of the history of XVIII century, but also well equipped cellars (where, among other things, premium sparkling wines are created by the classic method), tasting rooms and a restaurant. In addition, a high-tech grape processing plant has been built in its territory. Excellent still and sparkling wines, which are aged for 3 years, are created here. Guests can visit the basement, where the Company stores its bottles of sparkling wines in racks, precisely how the best Champagne Houses do!

It should be pointed out that the grand opening ceremony for one of Georgia’s most beautiful maranis turned into a magnificent show: elegant cream-primrose columns, sunbeams streaming from high windows, and certainly, ancient kvevris, now filled with the golden wine and buried in the paved ground. It is a center of traditional winemaking, but of the highest quality possible.

On the restored estate, guests may get to know about the Georgian gastronomic traditions and taste fine KTW wines and spirits. Culinary master classes are also held here, and in autumn, rtveli festival is organized.

However, this place is also unique due to the fact that the estate was previously owned by the family of Ilia Chavchavadze, whom Georgians call “the nation’s father”. Theaters and universities are named after Ilia Chavchavadze, and his portrait is depicted on 20 lari banknote. Ilia Chavchavadze was killed under suspicious circumstances at the beginning of the last century. After assassination of the prince, wine production was suspended, and, in Soviet times, the estate turned into an abandoned landfill. However, due to the owners of KTW, life has returned to this place of power. Nowadays, the ancient jugs are filled with wine again, revitalizing each guest coming to this land. In addition, Ilia Chavchavadze’s ancient vineyards have been restored: KTW was granted lease of the vineyards for 49 years in order to restore the ancient Georgian varieties. An up-to-date contemporary water supply system is installed here. Now, each guest paying a visit to Marani Guramishvili can touch the vines and discover the story of an amazing person: Saint Ilia the Righteous.

On the Georgian tourists’ map, Marani Tadeoz Guramishvili is one of the brightest landmarks of the country’s historic heritage.

Phil Crozier, Europe Brand Ambassador – Wines of Argentina (WofA), @MrArgentina:

«My career in wine started in 1999, when Argentina was barely visible on the world wine map. I was tasked to make a wine list for a famous restaurant group in the United Kingdom, specializing in Argentine cuisine. Since my knowledge back then was rudimentary at best, it occurred to me that the wines should all come from Argentina. At that time there were 13 Argentinian wineries available in the market back then, with many now famous names yet to reach the UK shores. So much has changed in these short years. In a way, I have grown up with Argentina, and have been witness to one of the great wine and the fastest growing success stories of all time. This happened in just 25 years and Argentina continues to grow its influence».

What makes Argentina unique?

Wine is an essential part of culture in Argentina. So much so that it is the national drink, and also it is considered essential to life. Buenos Aires is the world’s second biggest consumer of wine, after Paris, in terms of cities. As we can see from the map of wine growing regions of Argentina, the main regions follow a line from North to South, along the Andes Mountains. In recent years, consumption of wine per capita has sharply decreased, like elsewhere in the world. The need to export has encouraged a drive towards high quality, so that they could compete on the world stage. But 75% of the wine made in Argentina is still consumed in Argentina, and that’s an important part of Argentina’s identity.

As we can see from the map of wine growing regions of Argentina, the main regions follow a line from North to South, along the Andes Mountains. It is these mountains that sustain the life of the vines. Without them, life would not be possible. Don’t forget, as we travel north, altitude becomes more important. The further south we travel, latitude becomes more of a cooling influence. The vineyard areas extend 3,800km from north to south, 23 degrees to 45 degrees south. Argentina is home to both the highest and most southern vineyards in the world.

For every 150m in elevation (west), we lose around 1 degree С in average temperature. As we travel north, we travel towards the tropic of Capricorn, and so we are getting warmer. Altitude provides the key to providing a cooling influence, so much so that the highest vineyards in the world are found in the provinces of Jujuy and Salta, with altitudes ranging from 1,600m to just over 3,300m. With increased altitude, lower temperatures, and less dense air, we increase UVb sunlight. For every 1000 m in elevation, UVb light increases by around 12,5%. This has a profound effect on the grapes. Water is also key. Rainfall is low along the Andes, ranging from 150 to 250 mm a year. We are in a desert. It is the Andes Mountains that provide the all-important snowmelt to feed the vines, with irrigation being the method. The Inca came as far south as Mendoza, and were supremely skilled in water management, a legacy which the Spanish inherited when vines were first planted by Jesuits, as far back as 1551. Today, the need to preserve water is key, with modern methods of drip irrigation taking its place alongside more traditional flooding techniques. Soils are mainly alluvial, but vary hugely, depending on where you are in the Andes. Fertility is very low, forcing the vine to search for nutrients through deep roots. As we move south, days grow longer during the ripening season, but sunlight is less intense. Temperatures decrease, but the desert conditions, like everywhere along the Andes, allow for big temperature shifts between night and day.

What does this mean for the vines?

Higher altitudes and lower latitudes mean cooler climates, whilst receiving up to 220 days of sunlight in a year. An increase in UVb increases the thickness and colour (tannin and anthocyanin) of the grapes, whilst cooler temperatures maintain acidity. When temperatures fall at night, the vine shuts down, maintaining the freshness. Sunlight, of course, kicks off photosynthesis the next day, and so on. Vines are shown to produce lower yields at higher altitudes, thus increasing natural concentration and flavour. Warmer temperatures will allow for softer tannins, so we get a stark contrast in wines from warmer areas in the east, to cooler temperatures in the west. In Mendoza, we can find the same range of temperatures in just 60 km, from east to west, as we do from Tuscany to Burgundy. This allows Argentina to possess a bewildering level of climatic diversity.

Is Argentina only Malbec?

Truth and myths Yes, Malbec is their calling card, and has been largely responsible for its success over a short few years, accounting for nearly 90% of all exported value. But there is so much more Argentina can surprise. Of the red varieties, Malbec accounts for 22,39%, with Bonarda Argentina, a grape originating from Savoie in France, second, in at 9,23%, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon at 7,2%, Syrah at 6.01%, Tempranillo at 2,81%, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Tannat, Petit Verdot and many more.

Malbec binds all of Argentina’s diversity, in that it is found in every winemaking province in Argentina. Argentina’s biggest advance in recent years has been in the quality of its white wines.

Torrontés Riojano (3,9%), a grape variety that is indigenous and part of a growing family of vines known as the Criollas, is a cross between Listán Prieto (known as Criolla Chica in Argentina) and Muscat de Alexandria, and spawned many variants. This grape variety thrives at high altitude in the North, whilst Chardonnay (2,99%), Sauvignon Blanc (0,99%), Chenin Blanc (0,92%), Viognier and Semillón succeed in the higher, cooler parts of the Andes.

Another Criolla variant of unknown origin, regarded amongst the Criolla varieties, is Pedro Pedro Giménez*, not related to the Spanish Pedro Ximénez variety, but widely grown for use in sparkling and table wines.

The pink varieties are mainly made up of the Criolla varieties, only found in Argentina, amongst them Criolla Grande, Cereza and Muscatel. These are mainly used for table wines. Whilst Malbec provides a platform for Argentina’s exports, it is regionality which will provide the future.

The Regions

In recent years, many regions and sub-regions have been granted GI (Geographical Indication) status. The first G.I. granted in the Americas was as recently as 1994, when the department of Luján de Cuyo in Mendoza was formed. So that we can understand a little more about the regions, let’s take a short trip from North to South.

The North

This includes the Provinces of Jujuy, Salta, Tucumán and Catamarca. Jujuy is a relatively new region, and is home to the world’s highest vineyard, with just 25H, but is growing. Salta is the dominant province, with the towns of Cafayate, Molinos and Cachi at its heart, nestling in the Calchaquí valley. This is defined by its altitude, dry and arid climate, and is the spiritual home of Torrontés, with 3,343.5H, accounting for just 1.69% of the planted surface in Argentina. But this region has seen plenty of new investment in the last few years, and is famous throughout the world for its unique style of wine. Tucumán, to the east, shares a very similar terroir to Salta, whilst Catamarca, to the south, forms the beginning of the Calchaquí valley. Some of Argentina’s oldest vineyards are found in these regions.

Cuyo

In the heart of the Andes, it is by far the largest wine area, making 95% of the wine in Argentina. La Rioja lies to the north, with 3,29% of the volume, and is largely made up of cooperatives, making wine for international markets on a big scale. Torrontés Riojano, Malbec, Bonarda and Syrah dominate the landscape. San Juan, to the south, is Argentina’s second largest province for wine, at 16,28% of the planted surface. The main valleys are Tulum, Zonda, Perdernal and Calingasta. In particular, the higher altitudes of Perdernal (1400-1500m) and Calingasta (1600m) are seeing big investment, and are names to watch out for in the future. Perdernal is unique in that it has flint at its core in terms of soils. Syrah, Malbec and some old Criolla varieties are San Juan’s calling card.

Mendoza is by far the largest province, producing 75,28% of all wine in Argentina, and is Argentina’s spiritual wine region. With 149,226.9H, altitudes range from 450m in the east (by far Mendoza’s biggest region) to 2000m in Uspallata, a new region to the north. Luján de Cuyo and Maipu form the ‘Primera Zona’, the heart of quality viticulture, and home to many of Argentina’s famous Bodegas.

The Uco valley, an hour’s drive from Luján de Cuyo, is Mendoza’s answer to cool climate. Divided into 3 departments, Tupungato, Tunuyán and San Carlos are divided by 2 rivers, Las Tunas and Tunuyán. Defined by high altitude and a close proximity to the front of the Andes (Cordillera Frontal), altitudes range from 1100m to 1700m. This is where the new cool school hangs out, and is largely responsible for inspiring many of Argentina’s young winemakers, who are producing wines with elegance and purity. This region has seen huge investment in recent years, with many of the older, more established Bodegas moving some vine production here too, in search of greater diversity. Most of the white wine revolution in Argentina is found here as well, with a big revival of old vine Semillón, Chenin blanc, as well as world class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Look out for G.I. names like Tupungato, Paraje Altamira, Los Chacayés, Vista Flores, La Pampa El Cepillo, La Consulta, La Carrera and Los Arboles. Although Gualtallary has yet to receive G.I. status, it is producing some of Argentina’s exciting new Grand Cru wines. Further South, and lying somewhat under the radar, is San Rafael, a two hour drive from the Uco Valley. It is dominated by a handful of large wineries, lies further east from the Andes, and is famed for its Cabernet Sauvignon.

Patagonia and the Atlantic

Out on the vast, open plains of windswept Patagonia are 4 wine Provinces, La Pampa, Neuqúen, Río Negro and Chubut. Here, latitude is the cooling influence, and forms the southern part of the Andes. Neuquén was planted at the turn of the millennium, whilst Río Negro is home to many old vineyards, between them accounting for just 1,83% of the vineyard surface of Argentina. Small, boutique wineries and new projects dominate the scene. Further south, in Chubut, cool climate varieties like Chardonnay, Semillón, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir dominate. You will find wines with finer texture and elegance in these regions. Many old vines in Río Negro are being revived by younger winemakers. Buenos Aires and the Atlantic coast is home to 0,7% of Argentina’s vines, at just 149H, but it is a significant departure from the norms of Argentina’s continental climate. Again, cool climate varieties dominate, marking the beginning of maritime vineyards to add to Argentina’s rich diversity.

The Future

For some, Argentina’s future lies in a healthy respect for its past. Many forgotten regions are being explored again through ancient varieties, the Criolla’s being a case in point, particularly in the North and in eastern Mendoza. Criolla Grande, Criolla Chica, Cereza and Pedro Giminez will feature on wine shelves in the near future, with young wine drinkers looking for new stories and authenticity. For others, finesse will feature in wines that are less extracted, with less reliance on oak and a focus on purity. But for all, the focus for the future will be on regionality, with everyone finding their plot to rule. This will also secure the future of Malbec, with regional differences being key to show the huge diversity that Argentina has to offer. Expect to see more Cabernet Franc from the Uco Valley, Tannat and Torrontés from the north, Criolla Chica, orange wines, organic wines, wines made under Flor, use of native yeasts, and a near universal drive towards sustainability. I have never been more optimistic about the future of Argentine wine.

Glossary
Pedro Giménez is a white Argentinean grape with rapidly declining areas. Despite the similar name, the Spanish grape Pedro Ximénez has many differences, and ampelographers are not sure if the two varieties are related at all.

Winemaking Argentina: Phil Crozier answers the most popular questions about the country.

A state-of-the-art company in the beautiful Uco Valley.

Bodega La Luz del Vino is located at the foot of Cerro Tupungato Mountain, in the Uco Valley, Mendoza province. The Uco Valley is located at the north of the Tunuyan River at an altitude of 900 to 1200 meters above sea level and is surrounded by the Andes. Its total length is 17370 sq. km. It is a fertile region with an average rainfall and almost daily frosts in June, July and August. An ideal place for wine tourism: in winter, it is the other way round.

Bodega owns 120 hectares of vineyards, which are located in the highest places of the province, at the foot of the Andes. It should be emphasized that the vineyards Vinos de La Luz are the oldest in the Uco Valley.

Despite its close proximity to wildlife,  is a state-of-the-art company. It produces 500 000 liters of wine per year, the production capacity is 1 800 000 liters. The winery is equipped with many modern production resources, including those intended for vinification in both concrete and stainless steel tanks. The harvested grapes enter the tailored “cold” premises to prevent commencement of the fermentation process. The barrels and finished product storage facilities have a programmable cooling system, which guarantees the absence of sudden temperature changes.

Barrels (600 of them) are made from French oak, with a volume of 160 and 250 liters, as well as from Slavonian oak – for 500 and 6500 liters. The barrel park is partially renewed at the rate of 100 barrels per year. The winery has a research and development department responsible for carrying out various types of microvinification based on the results of study of selected grape varieties in different areas of the Uco Valley.

Tasting notes

Callejon del Crimen wine line is a story of love and passion that dates back to the 60s and is dedicated to the silent observers and guardians of the Uco Valley vineyards: the wild owls. The peculiarity of the terroirs makes our Callejon del Crimen wines unique and inimitable.

Episodio del Callejon is a 100% Malbec from Vista Flores. Young red wine is made in cement tanks, without vinification in oak. It conserves the energy of the highaltitude vineyards and develops in a bottle sealed with a high quality screw cap. The production output is 100 000 bottles per year, and these wines are intended exclusively for the international  market.

Callejon del Crimen Malbec Reserva is a 100% Malbec from Vista Flores. 25-year-old vines grow on sandy-loamy soil with alluvial and volcanic deposits at an altitude of 1150 m above sea level. The wine is aged for 8 months in French oak barrels. The aroma contains red fruits, ripe plums, blackberries, and spices, primarily black pepper. Chocolate and vanilla notes. 150 000 bottles a year are produced.

Callejon Del Crimen Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva is a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Vista Flores. 25-year-old vineyards at an altitude of 1150 above sea level. Aging – 8 months in French oak barrels. Deep ruby red color. The aroma is dominated by fresh red fruits, spices: white pepper and notes of tobacco. The taste is delicate and complex, with good structure and well-integrated tannins. Production output: 50 000 bottles.

Callejon Del Crimen Chardonnay is a 100% Chardonnay from Gualtagliari. 5-year-old vines grow on limestone soils with alluvial deposits at an altitude of 1350 m above sea level. 20% of the total grape must is fermented in French oak barrels and aged for 4 months in French oak barrels. The aroma reveals tropical fruits, citrus fruits, honey and vanilla. On the palate: the wine offers freshness preserved due to natural acidity, fruity and balanced buttery aftertaste. Production: 10 000 bottles.

Callejon Del Crimen Malbec Gran Reserva is a 100% Malbec from Vista Flores. Terroir is a loamy soil with alluvial and volcanic deposits. 25 year old vines grow at an altitude of 1150 m above sea level. Aging: 12 months in French oak barrels. The aroma reveals ripe red fruits, plums, and violets. Subtle notes of tobacco, coffee and vanilla. The taste is complex, mineral, with a good structure, soft and ripe tannins. Balanced, with a persistent aftertaste. Production: 100 000 bottles.

Callejon del Crimen Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon is a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Vista Flores, vines age is 25 years, height – 1150 m above sea level. The wine spent 12 months in French oak barrels. The aroma contains ripe red fruits, cherries, black currants, mint and spices, subtle notes of tobacco and chocolate. Blackberry and cherry on the palate. Balanced and velvety finish with elegant and round tannins. Production output: 20 000 bottles.

Callejon del Crimen Gran Reserva Petit Verdot is a 100% Petit Verdot from Vista Flores. 25 year old vines, 1150 m above sea level, aging: 12 months in French oak barrels. The aroma contains ripe black fruits, cherries, black currants, mint and spices. Subtle notes of tobacco and chocolate are present. Balanced and velvety finish with elegant and round tannins. The production output is 20 000 bottles.

Callejon Del Crimen Winemaker Selection: 85% Malbec, 10% Petit Verdot, and 5% Merlot. The soils are diverse: 20% from Altamira (1100 m above sea level), 20% from Vista Flores (1150 m above sea level), and 60% from Gualtagliari (1350 m above sea level). The aroma reveals mineral and spicy notes, ripe black plum. The taste is elegant and expressive, with silky and velvety tannins. The notes of chocolate and tobacco are resulting from the vinification in a French oak barrel. Balanced and persistent aftertaste. Aging: 12 months in French oak barrels. Production output: 12000 bottles.

Iluminado Malbec Paraje Altamira Argentina is a 100% Malbec from Altamira (1100 m above sea level). Aging is 12 months in French oak barrels with a volume of 160 liters and 12 months in a bottle. The aroma reveals ripe red and black fruits, delicate mineral notes. These aromas are in harmony with subtle notes of tobacco, vanilla and chocolate. The wine is full-bodied, with a well integrated acidity. Production output: 3500 bottles. Wine potential – 20 years.

Author: Nataliya Burlachenko, Brand Ambassador of Vinos de La Luz, Sommelier

A state-of-the-art company in the beautiful Uco Valley.

One of the most prominent South America’s winemaking countries in facts and figures.

Geography and Climate

Argentina is the eighth largest country in the world, located in the South America. Climate: from subtropical in the north to humid tropical in the center and temperate in the south. The major wine regions of Argentina are located in the western part of the country among the foothills of the Andes Mountains in the semi-arid desert-like climate with an average annual rainfall 100-300 mm.

Facts and Figures

• The largest wine producer in South America, ranked 5th in the word by volume after Italy, France, Spain and the USA.
• The 8th largest vineyard area in the word the 9th largest exporter, with just over 3% of the word market.
• The vineyard area is about 200,000 hectares.
• Argentina is the country with the highest and most southern vineyards in the word.
• There are about 2,000 wineries in the country, most are open to wine tourism.
• In 2019 consumption of wine in Argentina amounted to 19,5 liters per person (18,9 liters in 2018).
•  At the beginning of 2020 there were 94 GIs.
• Percentage of varieties: 58% – red, 24% pink and 18% –white.
• Malbec is their calling card of Argentina, accounting for nearly 90% of a exported value.
• In 2019 the wine sales in Argentina amounted to approximately 8,83 million hectoliters (8,4 million hectoliters in 2018).
•  From January to August of 2020, wine have reached 6,21 million hectoliters.
• In 2019 Argentina’s exports in the wine segment exceeded its imports by approximately 788 United States dollars. The total value exported reached nearly 793 million United States dollars, whereas imports totaled less than 5 million dollars.
• On average, every day 287,000 Malbec wines are exported at a rate of 12,000 bottles an hour. These figures represent a growth of 450% (and more than 800% in value) since 2004.
• Denmark and Sweden took up more than 40 percent of the total exports of Argentinian organic wine in that year.
• During 2019 Argentina was in 11th pace (2,2%) among 15 countries providing 93% of word wine exports.

We would like to thank the Embassy of Argentine Republic in Ukraine for its assistance in the preparation of materials and personally Elena Leticia Teresa Mikusinski, the Ambassador.

Argentina: one of the most prominent South America’s winemaking countries in facts and figures.

Italian company Mastroberardino, a tenth generation family estate, reproduced the ancient Pompeian wine. Experts say that Villa dei Misteri is the rarest wine produced on Earth. D+ has visited the replanted vineyards in Pompeii and the family winery of the company and described our experience below.

In the beginning was the death. On the ninth day before the Kalends of September, 79 A.D., approximately at 2 PM people of Pompeii, a prospering city of the Great Roman Empire, went to the local amphitheatre built by Gaius Quinctius Valgus and capable of seating 16,000 spectators, to see gladiatorial contests. Unlike in Rome, fighting to death was prohibited in Pompeii. Suddenly, the spectators gasped in fear and surprise, their eyes focused on the nearest mountain called Vesuvius. None of them thought that this imposing mountain which they perceived as part of the peaceful landscape could bring death and devastation.

By the way, this took place just one day after the Vulcanalia, the annual festival held to honor Vulcan, the god of fire. Frozen in astonishment, the crowd in the amphitheatre was watching a formidable 30-meter pine-treeshaped cloud of steam and smoke towering above Vesuvius. The sky became dark, and large flakes of black ashes covered the faces of Pompeii’s inhabitants. And only when redhot stones started to spread out of the volcano, people rushed in panic to their homes, grabbing their belongings, children and jewels. Some people were trying to hide in buildings, behind tightly closed doors; others attached pillows to their heads and rushed out of the city, as explosions were heard from the fire-breathing mountain and the earth was rising up to five meters…

The eruption lasted the whole day and night. The catastrophe reached its culmination at 7:30 in the next day’s morning: everyone who had not left the city for whatever reason was burned by a wave of pyroclastic flow that had a speed of 100 km/h (which is similar to the speed developed by car on highway) and reached 18 meters in height. Gases of incinerating temperatures immediately killed everything in the “city of the rich”. But tuff blocks and hot black ashes were covering the dead city for two more days. In three days it was completely – up to the roof level – covered by a grey smoking mass. After the rainfall Pompeii became buried in a giant volcanic mausoleum, which lasted for 1 500 years.

However cynical this might sound, but it was this “conservation” that helped the future generations to take a comprehensive snapshot of the life and circumstances of death of the ancient Pompeii. Scientists discovered that the people of Pompeii, unlike inhabitants of the nearby cities, were killed by a gas flow that was twice colder, just 250 to 300 degrees. This is why everything in the city was not burned to ashes, but rather remained in a sort of sarcophaguses, surrounded by hollow cavities that developed with time.

Giuseppe Fiorelli, director of excavations, made a revolutionary discovery in 1864. As archeologists knocked on the surface and found hollows, they started making holes and injected plaster into them. Filling the cavities, plaster recreated the last minutes of life of the great city to details, including pleats on clothes, hair style, and even face expressions…

…And then life came. The project for studying and partial reconstruction of this museum city is called PompeiViva for a purpose. Today we know quite well not only how the last people of Pompeii died, but also – up to the smallest details – how they lived, what they were afraid of, what they strived for, what they loved, what they ate and drank. Remarkably, home-made food was a privilege reserved to rich citizens of Pompeii, because firewood for ovens was expensive. Other people bought ready food in ancient public cook shops called thermopolia, where ready-to-eat food was stored in round recessions made from local stone like in a refrigerator. The city had 118 bars and taverns offering food, drinks and entertainments to people from the whole Roman Empire. By the way, inhabitants of Pompeii, like Romans, were true gourmets.

There was a market with a pool with live fish, so everyone could pick fish of his choice. Archeologists found that for these people, a visit to a theatre started from the bar, so spectators enjoyed snacks and drinks in a quadriportico before the show or during the break. Falerno wines, for example, were well known far beyond the Empire. People of Pompeii preferred to drink wine, diluting it with warm water in proportion of at least 2:3 and adding honey, and enjoy it with goat cheese.

During the excavations it was revealed that due to amazingly fertile soil fertilized by volcanic ashes, wheat was harvested two times a year, and harvests of apples, figs, cherries, melons, almonds, and garnets were also abundant. Due to archeological excavations and examination of imprints of vine and vine roots in pumice, archeologists concluded that vineyards were planted at the walls of the ancient Pompeii, near the amphitheatre.
It is here, where vineyards of the ancient Pompeii were buried under ashes two thousands years ago, young vines of ancient grapes have been recently planted again. And this is here, at the entrance to the Amfiteatro, we were met by Antonio Capone, an agronomist who leads one of the most amazing projects in the human history – archeological reconstruction of ancient wine of the destroyed city.

The same theme – a blend of ancient history and modern style – is found in decoration of the family winery. In my opinion, paintings by Raffaele De Rosa and Maria Micozzi that decorate the arches, are second to none and although made in modern times can be called gems of world art heritage.

This unique project was started by prominent wine-maker Antonio Mastroberardino, whom friends jokingly called a grape archeologist. He came from a family of wine-makers and deeply studied the history, methods and principles of archeology. One of the most important achievement of the wine estate owned by him was the revival of autochthonic grape varieties, the Greek heritage of Campania, where Aglianico, Fiano and Greco are the leading varieties.

The Archeological Society of Pompeii contacted him and offered to combine efforts for creation of wine which was subsequently called Villa dei Misteri as a tribute to one of Pompeii’s most important landmarks – Villa dei Misteri with its famous frescoes, supposedly the place where locals conducted rituals in honor of the god of wine Dionysus, ty was given to 3 leading grapes, including Aglianico – a great ancient late maturing variety, extremely capricious and sensitive to diseases, but giving Taurasi, which is often called a brother of the legendary Barolo and Barbaresco.
2000 marked the next stage of the project, which entailed massive planting of vines in the area covering 1 hectare.

Signor Capone guided us through insulas – museum territories closed for tourists, and inside we found separated green areas where now autochthonic grapevines are cultivated. The project currently has 15 of such experimental grounds located in various parts of the museum complex, covering 1 hectare of area and containing 7,000 of grape bushes. Every plot has its own distinctive character including its own grapes, various support systems, historic objects (such as houses, ancient fountains, wineries, and triclinia, local dining rooms) аnd other things. The vineyard in the Garden of Fugitives is probably the most impressive in terms of such objects from the historic point of view. Here, surrounded by live cheerful vines, is a terrifying exposition: 13 plaster figures of dead inhabitants of the insula, whom scientists believe to be members of the same family, and who could not escape from the deadly danger because some of them were not capable of moving quickly. They remained in the eternity, frozen in movement and supporting each other… But, enough with sad stories, let’s talk about life.

In 2009, the Monument Conservation Society approved planting in the Garden of Fugitives of another vineyard, where the system called Albarella (“small tree”) was used. A vine is cut short and tied to a stronger supporting bar designed for a larger quantity of heavy grape clusters. Lower leaves are cut off to increase the access of light. Such system was first discovered in Greek sources. It is successfully used in dry regions, and wine-makers think that it is the best option for Aglianico. Some experts, however, believe that it originates from the Etruscan winemaking school.

I guess that no one will be surprised that a bottle of Villa dei Misteri costs 100 euro in the winery shop. In the souvenir shop next to the entrance to the complex, however, it is 250 euro. As scientists expect the next activity of Vesuvius in the coming years, buying some bottles of Villa dei Misteri can be a great investment idea…

Over all these years, participants of the Villa dei Misteri project have gained experience which provides grounds to say that on volcanic soils rich in minerals vines grow fast and demonstrate outstanding results in terms of yield and organoleptic properties. Pompeii’s vines look 2 times older than their peers.The oldest vines will soon reach their 20th birthday. Today, both white and red old grape varieties are grown in the museum’s territory. The latter include Piedirosso, Sciascinoso and Aglianico.

By the way, the Villa dei Misteri wine is a blend of Piedirosso and Sciascinoso. Villa dei Misteri – the dream wine, the legendary wine and the symbol of revival – has been produced at the Mastroberardino facilities since 2001. Remarkably, despite its age and archeological origin, the company boasts cuttingedge equipment and machinery, and only the most advanced technologies available today are used at all stages of production of this amazing wine. Considering that Mastroberardino “borrowed” the vine cultivating conditions from ancient Romans and used aboriginal grapes with which the Pompeians worked, the Villa dei Misteri can be deservedly called an astonishing symbiosis of the past and the present, death of Pompeii and life after death.

D+ File
Taurasi DOCG, the first winemaking area of the highest quality category in Southern Italy, emerged in 1993. And the first bottle of Taurasi DOCG was produced by Mastroberardino. The age of Vesuvius is estimated at 17,000 years. This is the only active volcano on the European mainland. Supposedly, it has erupted about 100 times, but only few eruptions were more catastrophic than the eruption in 79 A.D.: thermal energy released during the eruption was 100,000 times more the thermal energy released by the Hirosima bombing. Pietro di Berardino, a famous wine-maker, was already producing wines back in 1750, and a little later he was granted the title of Mastro (“Master”). The wines were renamed “Mastroberardino”. The winery was officially registered in 1878 by Cavalier Angelo Mastroberardino, which is considered the year of birth of this wine estate. This date now decorates the winery’s coat of arms, flag and wine maturing casks.

The editors would like to thank Oksana Khristich, a wonderful translator from Naples,
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Italian company Mastroberardino, a tenth generation family estate, reproduced the ancient Pompeian wine.