Gastronomy and Wine Portal

Our media group took part in the largest online beverage trade show London Wine Fair along with Decanter, The Drinks Business, and other authoritative publishing houses.

2,608 visitors attended the London Wine Fair, with 238 virtual stands, showing over 3,435 different products, from 33 different countries. Borough Wines, which partnered with the London Wine Fair to manage sample rebottling and deliveries, has reported that just over 25,000 individual samples have been sent out prior to and during The Fair, with further samples expected over the coming days and weeks.

The 28 sessions, which included Tasting Masterclasses, Industry Briefings and Panel Discussions, have been viewed nearly 6,000 times so far, with 154 people watching The Fair’s headline briefing live on the first morning: the WSTA’s “Wine Trading 2021: Where are we?” hosted by CEO Miles Beale.  Almost 9,500 meeting communications took place throughout the three days, within the networking platform; these were a combination of those suggested by the algorithm as well as meetings proactively prompted by attendees.

The first 100% digital LWF lasted three days (17-19 May) and raised the issues of Covid and Brexit challenges, diversity, and sustainability in the wine industry. The exhibition had a large geographical scope discovering and tasting alternative varieties from New Zealand, South Africa, Cyprus, India, Portugal, Spain, and organic/biodynamic wines from France. Our representatives joined one of the biggest networks of wine experts, winemakers, distributors, and organizations operating in the wine and spirits industry all over the world.

The London Wine Fair platform will remain in place for a further three months, allowing registered visitors access to samples via exhibitor stands as well as recordings of the schedule of content.

Wine trading: where we are now

The main concern of the UK wine trading challenged by Brexit and Covid became the leitmotif of LWF. The UK has been the center of the world wine trade for 900 years and it is the second biggest exporter of wine regarding volume and value (volume after Germany, value after the USA). Passionately trying to reunite wine industry working with the government, the UK aims to keep this trajectory and its leading position further on. According to the phased reopening plan announced by Boris Johnson, the country expects having parts of the hospitality industry, including shops, bars, and restaurants opened in July.

At the same time, WSTA claims things will not return to the way they were used to be, the wine industry will not stay the same. One of the trends Covid pandemic brought is the increase in the online sales. European Association of Wine Economists provided the statistics of 2020 on this issue indicating that online sales have increased on 180% for some EU members and 30% across the EU. At the same time, online sale represents only 1,5% of wine companies turnover. In the UK, the last figures of online sales increase are more likely to be around 10%. However, 2021 online sales are volumed back comparing to the pick of 2020.

Hal Wilson notes that Cambridge Wine Merchants managed to get almost the same turnover and not to lose much trade due to having embraced the current trends of online retail channels and building strong business identity as a part of a community. “It was important to cooperate with companies, educators, winemakers and engage with customers to let them know the reality. This helped to get the solidarity within our trade. We tried to facilitate the education side by helping educators get bottles of wine, some samples of wine on time and in an interactive and cost-efficient way”, indicate Hal.

The biggest change trading over years is Brexit. Transition period finished in December 2020. Changes are inevitable and systematic: enforcement police, the custom union leave, changing rules. The WSTA works closely with the government to evolve new business models and help wine industry to sustain.

The UK government announced it would leave the custom union with or without a deal. So, Brexit provided the UK wine producers with difficulties in transporting and explosion of paperwork. But there is no further recommendations or predictions what can be done to avoid additional red tape. Finding the solutions for the post-Brexit situation lies completely at the door of the UK government.

In fact, 33 million wine consumers of the UK will feel difference. Trading with the EU will get harder while with the other part of the world might be easier. The Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership (CTPTP) withdrew by Trump is one of the world’s largest free-trade areas by GDP.

Environmental agenda and wine’s carbon footprint

Regarding environmental and social sustainability agenda, the UK has been a leader for a long time. Environmental sustainability requires reducing agricultural impact, reducing water pollution. Industry is responsible for providing meaningful approach and satisfy customer choice, for example, by taking care of wine packaging to avoid microplastic.

“Covid and Brexit are not the only challenges we had. We cannot forget the natural disasters that have brought climate crisis such as the Australian bushfires, the US wildfires, and the recent severe frost in France which are placing an additional pressure on wineries and the international wine market as a whole”, emphasizes Rachelle Rush from Treasury Wine Estates.

Looking for solutions how to reduce wine’s carbon footprint, International Wineries for Climate Action shared its practices. The immediate actions that the wine companies can do to reduce their carbon footprint are straightforward: to install on-side renewable energy, to transition to electric vehicles and tractors, to reduce bottle weight up to 40-50% depending on the model, to mix and optimize transportation, to shift work and business travel to remote. The major shifts are going to come on indirect influence such as positive pressure, supplier lobbying, customer collaboration, government, and media advocacy.

Miguel A. Torres, co-founder of the IWCA, notes that today for any wineries, there are two possibilities to address climate change, firstly, viticulture where you try to store maximum carbon into the soil using specialized cover crops, and secondly, planting more trees around the vineyards.

Julien Gervreau adds that taking care of transportation and packaging is a key here as well: “Shifting from using gas to renewable electricity to produce wine bottles is ideal. Two third of total carbon footprint comes from packaging in Jakson Family Wines.” As a possible solution, there is a necessity of European politicians to agree on a single standard wine bottle over Europe which might be accepted later in the U.S.

London Wine Fair 2022

Commenting, Head of London Wine Fair, Hannah Tovey said: “Many of the decisions we have taken when building the digital show have been made with 2022 in mind.  We strongly believe that a hybrid London Wine Fair will be absolutely invaluable to enhancing our exhibitor experience, whilst opening the show up to a larger potential audience and providing a platform beyond three days in May.  Whilst digital will never entirely replace in person tastings and face to face meetings – so vital in our industry – the online aspect brings another dimension to the event and is something we will look to incorporate moving forward.”

The dates for the 2022 London Wine Fair, which will take place at Olympia and online, will be 16^th to 18^th May, with a further three months hosted on the digital platform.

Our media group took part in the largest online beverage trade show London Wine Fair along with Decanter, The Drinks Business, and other authoritative publishing houses.

The third seminar from Wines of Portugal Ukraine was held in Kiev on the topic “Why Portuguese wines should be on your list of wines”.

Araik Manukyan was a speaker from Wines of Portugal, and Wine Events Agency was an organizer of the event.

At the seminar, 10 wines from autochthonous Portuguese varieties were presented: Loreiro, Avesso, Albariño, Fernau Pires, Arinto, Guveio, Malvasia Fina, Trincadeira and more.

In total, by the end of 2021, about 300 registered autochthonous varieties, which winemakers actively use in their wines, are expected in Portugal.

If we talk about white wines, then they are quite diverse depending on their varietal characteristics and place of growth. For example, white wines from the Vinho Verde region are very fresh, with aromas of green fruits, citrus fruits, and flowers, and are often highly acidic. In general, the Vinho Verde region is famous for its simple and understandable white wines; in total, about 95% of white wines are produced in the region, and only 5% are red. Some of the most popular white varieties in Vinho Verde are Loreira and Avesu.

Three wines from the region were presented at the tasting. Via Latina Loureiro Vercoope and Quinta de Linhares Premium Agri-Roncao wines are light enough, understandable, great for an aperitif, and will also go well with vegetables and fruits.

The culture of blending among the Portuguese dates back to the 16th century, and today Portuguese winemakers are considered one of the best masters of wine blending in the world. There are even blends from more than 100 grape varieties. It is extremely difficult to find mono-varietal wines in Portugal, so it was very interesting to taste the mono-varietal wine made from Loreira grapes.

Also, another mono-varietal white wine made from Albariño grapes from the family winery Soalheiro Alvarinho Quinta de Soalheiro was on display from the Vinho Verde region. The company specializes in wines from this variety and even makes wines in the orange style. The wine is delicate, graceful, and has yellow fruits, white peaches, and nectarine in the aroma, minerality is felt. It is ideally combined with fresh sea fish, seafood, and sushi.

Catarina Bacalhoa – white wine from the Peninsula de Setubal region – is already a blend based on the most popular white variety in Portugal Fernau Pires, aka Maria Gomes. Maria Gomes plantation occupies more than 6% of all vineyards in the country. Also, in a blend of varieties of Arinto and Chardonnay.

The Arinto variety is known for its high acidity, that is why Portuguese winemakers often use it in the production of sparkling wines. The wine is very floral, mineral, and elegant. There are  peach, pineapple, light woody notes in the aroma; and a barrel is felt in the taste due to hints of vanilla and cream.

Even before the start of the tasting, Araik had already convinced the guests that Portuguese wines were a must have in the bar of every wine lover, especially a wine professional. And here are some facts from the speaker that testify to this. According to the 2018 study by the University of Gaisenheim, Portugal ranks first in the list of wine-producing countries with which world buyers would like to start cooperation and expand their portfolio. By the way, along with Portuguese wines, South African wines are also on this list: buyers explained their choice by the fact that wines from these countries were ideal in terms of price and quality.

The Forbes magazine also contributed to the growing popularity of Portuguese wines: in 2019, it announced its Top 12 best wines in the world among which there were three Portuguese wines.

Besides, so beloved by Ukrainian wine lovers, Jancis Robinson, a famous British wine critic and writer, has classified Portuguese red wines as the best reds in the world for 13 years of tasting Portuguese wines.

The reds, indeed, turned out to be especially good, three samples impressed the guests of the tasting.

Tres Bagos Red Reserve Lavradores de Feitoria from Porto and Douro. Wine 2016, partially aged in a barrel. Variety split: Tinta Roriz, Toriga Franca and Toriga Nacional. The wine is tannic, with plum and blackberry aromas, well balanced and moderately acidic. Ideal with red meat, cheese, and chocolate desserts.

And two examples from the Alentejo region: Herdade Sao Miguel Reserva Casa Relvas and Cartuxa Red. The wines are completely different, although both blends contain both Alicante Boucher and Trincadeira.

Herdade is black juicy forest berries, blueberries, blackberries, strawberry and currant jam flavor, live tannins, and endless elegance. Despite the small residual sugar (1.1 g / l), the wine has a rather sweet aftertaste.

Cartuxa has a completely different aroma: notes of wild rose, fresher fruit, high acidity, and smoked aroma. The wine is at its peak, and the winemakers give it another 10 years of aging in the bottle.

Both wines pair perfectly with fatty red meats and game.

We would like to note that very soon 29 winemakers from Portugal will come to Ukraine for the first time to show their products and introduce the professionals of the sector to the variety of Portuguese wines. As part of the project, guests can expect a master class, B2B tasting and a large circular tasting for the public.

Wines of Portugal Grand Tasting 2021 will take place on June 3 at the Parkovy Exhibition and Convention Center. You can take part in the event by prior registration.

The third seminar from Wines of Portugal Ukraine was held in Kiev on the topic “Why Portuguese wines should be on your list of wines”.

Drinks+ continues to cover the events of Odessa Wine Week which has been taking place these days in the city near the Black Sea.

Odessa Wine Week takes place in Odessa. This large international project aims to coordinate the efforts of the Ukrainian wine community on the way to international recognition of the domestic product, promotion of the Ukrainian Wine brand in the world.

At the grand opening of the large-scale event on May 19, welcoming remarks were made by the Head of the Odessa Regional State Administration Serhiy Hrynevetsky, as well as Giorgi Iukuridze, CEO of SHABO Wine Company, General Partner of Odessa Wine Week, Iryna Dyachenkova, Director of Drinks+ Publishing House, General Information Partner Wine Week, Jean-Philippe Roby, an oenologist of Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences / Institute of Viticulture and Wine (France, Bordeaux) and others.

On this day, the conference “Innovative tools in viticulture in the conditions of climate change” was held, during which authoritative speakers – experts in the wine industries – raised topical issues of technology and innovation in grape growing, problems and approaches to sustainable winemaking, and other relevant topics.

In particular, the famous winemaker, oenologist, and participant of the Vinos de La Luz project Roberto Chipresso spoke about his experience with Odessa Black, and the owner of the craft winery Stakhovsky Wines, the first racket of Ukraine Serhiy Stakhovsky introduced the audience to the peculiarities of growing grapes in Transcarpathia.

Another bright event was the author’s tasting from the guests of OWW – the head of Vinos de La Luz Ricardo F. Nunez (Argentina) and the brand ambassador of Vinos de La Luz in Ukraine Natalia Burlachenko for representatives of HoReCa and retail. The event was a good opportunity to taste first-class wines that have won many awards at international competitions and get professional information about world-class wines.

Many interested people gathered for a round tasting of partners and participants of Odessa Wine Week which was attended by:

• PTK Shabo LLC
• 46 Parallel Wine Group
• TM “Koblevo”
• TM «Marengo»
• TM “Wine Station”
• NSC “Tairova’s IViV “
• Chateau Chizay Wine Company
• PE “Wine House Gigineishvili”
• “Оdesos winery”
•  Frumushika-Nova      
• TM “Winecraft”     
•  LLC “Prestige Group”: TM “Odessa”, TM “French Boulevard”     
•  Beykush Winery    
•  Falcon Craft Wine       
•  Stakhovsky Wines Craft Winery       
•  Prince Trubetsky’s winery       
•  Tavria vintage cognac house       
•  Craft winery “Biologist”

May 20 was not less eventful: participants and guests gathered in the conference hall of the Premier Hotel Odesa to take part in the Wine Future Forum, the main topics of which were investment in winemaking, features and problems of Ukrainian wine exports, experience of successful wine countries etc.

In this panel discussion there was a video inclusion of the Minister of Agrarian Policy and Food of Ukraine Roman Leshchenko who stressed that so far imports have an advantage over domestic wine. According to the Minister, our country, drawing on the successful experience of neighboring countries, needs to work on the formation and promotion of the Ukrainian Wine brand – which, incidentally, is already actively engaged in the ministry headed by Mr. Leshchenko, in cooperation with Ukrvinprom. The Minister also reminded of a number of urgent actions in the wine industry, including the need to reduce excise duties, abolish excise tax stamps, remove table wines from the list of alcoholic beverages and include them in the food category as well as restore our country’s membership in the OIV.

Ricardo F. Nunez, founder and owner of the Vinos de La Luz group of companies which unites wineries in Spain, Italy, Argentina and the United States spoke about Argentina’s winemaking experience and its state support programs for winemakers. According to Mr. Nunez, Argentinian winemakers are united under the brand “Wines of Argentina” and jointly participate in exhibitions and special events. So, Mr. Nunez advised our winemakers to use this experience and to perform at international wine events not separately, but under the only sign of Ukraine as a wine-growing state. The speaker is convinced that we have every reason to succeed: Ukrainian wines, even without state support, receive medals and high marks at international competitions, we have talented winemakers, creative managers, good prospects, and potential of domestic grape varieties, so we only need to coordinate efforts and to work in coordination with state structures for a common goal – the recognition of Ukrainian wine in the world.

Another speaker of the panel was Anna Horkun, CEO and founder of 46 Parallel Wine Group. In her report “Attracting investment in the wine industry”, she revealed the main working cases and stages of this process: how to jointly manage the company and share profits and losses, how exactly preparation of the company for entering the foreign market takes place, what are the stages of internal audit, features and stages of concluding an external agreement, etc.

Iryna Bystrytska, Deputy Director of the National Office of Grapes and Wines of Moldova, spoke about how NOGW managed to unite Moldovan winemakers, thanks to which factors Moldovan wines receive a record number of awards at international wine competitions and the rapid development of wine tourism in the country.

In addition, Olga Bussinello, a private entrepreneur, former director of the Consorzio per la Tutela Vini Valpolicella, shared her professional experience on the specifics of winemaking in the Valpolicella region.

Philippe Massol, Director of Cité du Vin, addressed the audience with a video greeting.

In the second part of the forum, Olga Pinevych-Todoryuk, editor-in-chief of Drinks+ magazine, judge of the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles (Belgium) and the Grand International Wine Award MUNDUS VINI (Germany), is expected to speak on the role of the media in the formation and promotion of the Ukrainian wine brand and the peculiarities of wine journalism.

And on May 21 at the discussion panel dedicated to wine tourism, there will be a presentation of the international Wine Travel Awards, launched by the media group Drinks+. Iryna Dyachenkova, Director of the Drinks+ Publishing House, will talk about this interesting and promising tool for promoting wine and gastronomic roads and wine tourism operators in Ukraine. Follow our publications!

Drinks+ continues to cover the events of Odessa Wine Week which has been taking place these days in the city near the Black Sea.

Drinks+ covering the events of the largest online beverage trade show.

During London Wine Fair (17-19 May), Miles Beale, Chief Executive of the Wine and Spirit Trade Association, looked back at the last 12 months on how the wine industry had been affected; and looked forward at what was coming over the horizon. In particular, what are the challenges the UK wine sector facing thanks to the permanent changes wrought by COVID-19 and the UK leaving the European Union.

The UK has been the center of the world wine trade for 900 years and it is the second biggest exporter of wine regarding volume and value (volume after Germany, value after the USA). Passionately trying to reunite wine industry working with the government, the UK aims to keep this trajectory and its leading position further on. Looking back, Covid storm almost pasted. Return to normality in the UK is expected: it is possible to eat inside; you can hug; vaccination is working. According to the phased reopening plan announced by Boris Johnson, the country expects having parts of the hospitality industry, including shops, bars, and restaurants opened in July.

New channels to increase wine sales

At the same time, the WSTA claims things will not return to the way they were used to be, the wine industry will not stay the same. One of the trends Covid pandemic brought is the increase in the online sales. European Association of Wine Economists provided the statistics of 2020 on this issue indicating that online sales have increased on 180% for some EU members and 30% across the EU. At the same time, online sale represents only 1,5% of wine companies turnover. In the UK, the last figures of online sales increase are more likely to be around 10%. However, 2021 online sales are volumed back comparing to the pick of 2020.

Rachelle Rush from Treasury Wine Estates shares the company’s experience: “The team had to deal with significant challenges trying to maintain inventory, supply to our customers combined with shipping delays from all major countries of origin due to lockdowns, restrictions. We have seen a remarkable ability within the organization and our partners to quickly give it to a new online way of working and collaborating out of kitchens and bedrooms across the world.”

Another innovation after Covid besides acceleration of online sales is omni-channels and wine baskets as advertisement strategy. Miles Beale emphasizes currently, consumer behavior is different because of Covid, but trading is different because of Brexit.

Hal Wilson notes that Cambridge Wine Merchants managed to get almost the same turnover and not to lose much trade due to having embraced the current trends of online retail channels and building strong business identity as a part of a community. “It was important to cooperate with companies, educators, winemakers and engage with customers to let them know the reality. This helped to get the solidarity within our trade. We tried to facilitate the education side by helping educators get bottles of wine, some samples of wine on time and in an interactive and cost-efficient way”, indicate Hal.

However, the conditions were less favorable for businesses focusing on HoReCa trading as they received the least support from the government. Miles Maclnnes shares experience of Jascots Wine Merchants: “We were the business turning over in excessive 9 million. Until the end of March 2020 we had about 55% of our normal sales. But after the announcement regarding the lockdown on 17 March, we received minus 90 000 of sales because our customers were canceling orders and sending stock back. Our pre-Coronavirus customers managed to contribute 3% of normal sales. However, we had about 4 months on cash-on-hand with no revenue. It was likely that businesses like us would just close.” The team of Jascots Wine Merchants had to quickly come up with a new solution which was, not surprisingly, to create an e-commerce website. Human and digital business model combination helps wine industry to sustain in new circumstances.

Dealing with tremendous red tape after Brexit

The biggest change trading over years is Brexit. Transition period finished in December 2020. Changes are inevitable and systematic: enforcement police, the custom union leave, changing rules. The WSTA works closely with the government to evolve new business models and help wine industry to sustain.

The UK government announced it would leave the custom union with or without a deal. So, Brexit provided the UK wine producers with difficulties in transporting and explosion of paperwork. But there is no further recommendations or predictions what can be done to avoid additional red tape. Finding the solutions for the post-Covid situation lies completely at the door of the UK government.

The UK’s departure from the European Union brought with it the prospect of new importing certifications known as VI-1 forms if no were reached. The Wine and Spirits Trade Association (WSTA) warned that it could cost the industry as much as £70 million a year in lost revenue, raise the price of wine and potentially exclude many smaller producers from the UK market. There is no sense for keeping the existing wine certificate and to create a new one for EU trading. From 1 July 2021 to 1 January 2022, the WSTA works closely with the government on the issue.

In fact, 33 million wine consumers of the UK will feel difference. Trading with the EU will get harder while with the other part of the world might be easier. The Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership (CTPTP) withdrew by Trump is one of the world’s largest free-trade areas by GDP.

Another challenge concerns mandatory labeling of wine and other alcoholic drinks. The difficulty is the EU and UK markets stand for two different names and require two sets of labels what is confusing for consumers. Combination of own labeling and online information represents a lower cost approach. This allows to mention social responsibility credentials on brands labeling while using smartphones for reaching further information.

Rachelle Rush notes Brexit has introduced additional complexity for servicing at EU customers. The regulatory environment upped until the 11 hours particularly with the labelling and documentation. “It would be good if we as an industry would be given sufficient clarity in good time, so that we can manage those changes in an orderly fashion. We should necessitate the setup of the European warehouse capability at speed to minimize any red tape or delays at servicing to our European partners.

Environmental and social responsibility agenda

Regarding environmental and social sustainability agenda, the UK has been a leader for a long time. Environmental sustainability requires reducing agricultural impact, reducing water pollution. Industry is responsible for providing meaningful approach and satisfy customer choice, for example, by taking care of wine packaging to avoid microplastic.

“Covid and Brexit are not the only challenges we had. We cannot forget the natural disasters that have brought climate crisis such as the Australian bushfires, the US wildfires, and the recent severe frost in France which are placing an additional pressure on wineries and the international wine market as a whole”, emphasizes Rachelle Rush.

Governmental agenda with diversity and inclusion should be deepened more as well. Considering the issue how we can have more diversity in the executive board in WSTA, Miles Beale notes the WSTA reviewed recruitment policy based on the skills and what the candidates can bring in.

All in all, Brexit and Covid storms in wine trading of the UK impose an inevitable need for suppliers to adapt and for organizations and businesses to be agile, responsive, to be in power to make decisions quickly while maintaining focus on delivering quality products to customers and partners.

Drinks+ covering the events of the largest online beverage trade show.

 The legacy of F.W. Langguth Erben lives in the seventh generation of winemakers.

Traditional & Modern

When the French revolution started to change the world in 1789, before Germany even existed, Franz Wilhelm Langguth founded a wine-trading company in Traben-Trarbach. Just like the Moselle region is one of Germany’s oldest wine-growing regions, Langguth is one of Germany’s oldest wineries and anknowledged as brand pioneer in modern retail. The Langguth family has lived and worked in the world of wine for seven generations. New grape varieties, new techniques, a new globalised market, new wines – Langguth has developed and maintained its position as a quality provider in this global market for over 200 years.

Region

Back in 1789, when Franz Wilhelm Langguth founded the wine house in Traben-Trarbach on the banks of the Moselle River, nobody would have thought that this charming town would soon have the same importance in wine trading as Bordeaux in France. Today based in the heart of Europe, the F.W. Langguth Erben winery with its own steep sloped vineyards along the Moselle valley cultivates wines mainly in the famous German wine regions of Rheinhessen, Pfalz and Moselle.

Philosophy

From its humble beginnings, the F.W. Langguth Erben winery became one of Germany’s biggest wine producers during the 19th century, and is now one of Europe’s leading companies. Through the last decades Wolfgang Langguth has defined and lived the company’s philosophy of winemaking and brand innovation: delivering top quality wine to customers worldwide while maintaining brand traditions combined with modern, sustainable wine making technology.

Premium Brands

The Langguth Erben product range includes traditional brands such as Erben®, Blue NUN®, Medinet®, and innovative brand ideas such as Villa W. or Sontino® Organic-Vegan. However, brands are not manufactured. They are created in the minds of consumers. This can only be achieved with extraordinary quality and a feel for consumer requirements. A challenge that F.W. Langguth has always felt obliged to meet, making the Langguth Erben brands successful on all continents in more than 100 countries around the globe. F.W. Langguth Erben is now one of Germany’s leading brand name wine producers.

Patrick F.W. Langguth, CEO and family member in 7th generation:

“Wine producers and sales partners all over the world are united by the desire for satisfied customers and longterm success. Developing a brand within a globalised, everchanging world present new challenges every day. As the head of the 7th generation of the Langguth family, I am pleased to accept the responsibility of meeting these challenges. To me, partnership means maintaining traditions, enhancing quality wareness, taking new directions together and taking forward the development of products and markets. Consumers in more than 100 countries have acknowledged the consistent quality management and the continuous investment in environmentally-friendly cultivation and production of wines using state-of-the-art cellar technology.”

ERBEN

1964 was the year when the “ERBEN” brand was born. “ERBEN” the German word for “heritage” stands for the Langguth family tradition in producing excellent German wines. Just a few years later, Erben® became the best-selling wine brand on the German market. In 1976, ERBEN SPÄTLESE (late harvest) became the most popular Prädikat wine, that is to say highest quality wine, on the German market. With the extended product range, the success story continued unchallenged throughout the following decades. Erben Wines are exclusively obtained from quality-tested vintages from German wine growing areas. The Erben® product range includes 12 wines with maximum quality levels and a distinct flavor and provides with 3 Prädikat wines and 9 varietal wines enjoyment for every occasion and taste. We are delighted and proud to announce that our brand ERBEN has won one of the most important international design awards, RED DOT AWARD: Brands & Communication Design 2020.

For approximately 65 years, the Red Dot Award has provided designers and companies with a platform for the evaluation of design. Only the best-designed brands and communication projects were ultimately selected. The award is a proof of the high design quality. The popularity of the brand is evidenced by the numbers: over 330 million bottles of Erben have been sold over the past 50 years.

Blue NUN goes everywhere

The history of Blue NUN goes further back in the German wine business than the history of the Langguth company itself. NUNs have known how to make exquisite wines for centuries. This is where the Blue NUN brand, the leading premium export brand from F.W. Langguth Erben has its roots. With a brand history going back 100 years, Blue NUN is one of the most important brand name wines outside Germany enjoyed in more then 80 countries. Today, Blue NUN represents wines from the heart of Germany. State-of-the-art cellar technology is the guarantee of consistently high quality. The brand has achieved real cult status over the last few decades, and is a guarantee of successful trade partnerships.

Blue NUN has been present on the Ukrainian market for 8 years and the brand‘s position is getting stronger and stronger. The reason for this is certainly a continuous quality, excellent taste but also the love of the customer for the product, which is not only a wine but also a modern lifestyle product. Also Export Director, Julia Vertgeym, originally from Ukraine is very motivated to strengthen the brand presence in her homeland.

The Blue NUN Riesling won 2020 a silver medal at the prestigeous Mundus Vini competition, the biggest international wine competition with top wines from all over the world.

Photos by F.W. Langguth Erben company

The legacy of F.W. Langguth Erben lives in the seventh generation of winemakers.

Jancis Robinson has tasted the Ukrainian wines and assessed them under the 20-point scale within the range from Distinguished to Superior.

Recently, we have witnessed an important event, which, at a first glance, may not seem so sensational. In London, Janсis Robinson has tasted a pool of Ukrainian wines (by 46 Parallel, Beykush, and Shabo) provided to her by Drinks+ Communication Media Group. But if one comes to grips with the event, it will become obvious that this tasting is the beginning of a new history for Ukraine, a stepping stone to the top, which every winemaker dreams of.

Let us start with an amazing fact that the stars so luckily aligned, and Mrs. Robinson showed interest in the wines of our country and incredibly promptly confirmed the tasting to us. She contacted the editors of  Drinks + and proposed to us to send for tasting a small set of wines, which are the most well-deserved, in our opinion, in order to represent Ukraine.

And here, perhaps, it is appropriate to remind (well, what if you have forgotten?), who Jancis Robinson is. One of the top wine critics in the world, she has gained a reputation of the most scrupulous and demanding among them. The highest professionalism, uncompromising attitude to quality and sense of humor make many people fear her often ingenious comments, which are published on JancisRobinson.com. Jancis is a journalist, gifted writer, wine columnist of the Financial Times, holder of the Order of the British Empire and the post – which fact particularly appeals to the many –  of Advisor to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II.

Thus, you know, what the highest-class expert received the samples of Ukrainian wines, which were to compete with 200,000 other wines from around the world (including the recognized stars) that have been already assessed on JancisRobinson.com. Now, we can admit that expecting the results was quite tense: Mrs. Jancis Robinson’s assessment is not a competition, where the collective assessment is averaged, resulting in avoidance of significantly negative results. The approach of the “Great and Consistent Lady” is the same: veracious and consistent. Nevertheless, it was primarily our confidence in the quality of the wines by these three Ukrainian companies, that warmed us up, and secondly, in our opinion, it was the chance that, if successful, could push Ukraine to the world stage (the verb is used deliberately: we should not remind you, in what condition, generally, our industry is, and how ready the country is to enter the world stage).

And the bold plan was successful: Ukrainian wines performed perfectly! The tasting covered the wines:

• 46 Parallel Grand Admiral Merlot 2016 and 46 Parallel Grand Admiral Brut Nature 2018;
• Shabo Telti-Kuruk Grande Reserve 2017 and Iukuridze Family Wine Heritage Vaja Cabernet 2017;
• Beykush Kara Kermen 2016 and Beykush Timorasso 2018.

The next issue of Drinks+ magazine will feature a detailed story about each of these wines as well as Jancis Robinson’s reviews. We advise those of you who would like to see the results of tastings performed by the leading wine critic and her team, to get an authorized access the site JancisRobinson.com. At the same time, we should warn you that any citations and mentions are governed pursuant to the set of prescribed rules: everything is very correct, but “in strict accordance”, as it has always been the case with Jancis.

Without spinning out the intriguing piece of news: even the most modest points gained by Ukrainian wines – 15.5 points – correspond to a bronze medal of the prestigious competition, and when translated from “the language of Mrs. Robinson”,  mean more than the “Excellent”, approaching the “Distinguished” (16 points). Well, the vast majority of the wines gained the “Distinguished” and above, only half a point missing for reaching the “Superior”. For maximalists and adherents of the 100-point system, who find the scale of up to 20 points not impressive enough, we would like to present a nuts-and-bolts course. If translated into “Parker’s language”, 16.5 points are equal to 88 points. Given that, according to Parker, 80-89 points are equal to “Above Average to Excellent”, whereas 90 points imply “Outstanding”, resulting in our conclusion that the Ukrainian wines are in the upper ranks on the borderline, “5 minutes before reaching the highest rank”. You should also take into account that 100 points is an index of an unsurpassed masterpiece. In other words, it implies the world’s champion who has passed an unprecedentedly high bar. For example, 88 points by Parker were awarded to Château Citran, Haut-Medoc AOC Cru Bourgeois, 1994. The centuries-old winemaking traditions, old vineyards, bright terroirs and exceptional weather conditions are behind such points. Thus, the Ukrainian winemaking, with its mostly young vines, is at the very beginning of its journey. But, according to the observations made by D+, from that moment, the road went dramatically uphill.

An important remark which should be made in connection with the event: Ukrainian wines were personally tasted the Great and Consistent Jancis Robinson, as she is called in the wine world. It could happen in an alternate arrangement: it is not a secret that such masters as Robinson, Parker and Suckling have a long time ago begun to personally taste only those samples, which are the most interesting to them, otherwise resorting to the assistance of large teams of tasters, among whom MW dominates. In short, the fact that the Ukrainian wines were tasted by Jancis Robinson personally shows a special interest in our terra incognita vinum. It is certainly honorable and conveys a sense of promise. It should be also emphasized that the positive dynamics behind the Ukrainian wines’ quality, which can be traced in the rating gained from JancisRobinson.com, is encouraging: a few years ago, Kolonist was the only Ukrainian winemaker mentioned on the site (whose wines were defined by many Ukrainians as the country’s best wines) with its maximum of 15.5 points, now, there are four out of six samples by three winemakers, which have gained 16 points and more.

Finally, we would like to present another announcement: in the near future, the Financial Times will publish Jancis Robinson’s article featuring wines of the Eastern Europe. If Ukraine is mentioned in the article among the wine-growing countries, which are worthy of attention, we will consider that a credit for this will go not only to Jancis, but the three Ukrainian winemakers, too. We will also consider our mission to have been performed.

Jancis Robinson has tasted the Ukrainian wines and assessed them under the 20-point scale within the range from Distinguished to Superior.

In Kyiv, in the tasting zone of the new Wine Gallery store located at the address: P. Nishchinsky Street, 6, the Ukrainian session of the global tasting – Italian Taste Summit – was held, and Drinks+ was the partner of the global tasting in Ukraine.

Together with representatives of local importing companies (offline), as well as colleagues from other countries – Germany, USA, Canada and Russia (who were online with us), we were tasting 33 wines from 11 wineries interested in entering the Ukrainian market and representing nine regions of Italy: Trentino, Lombardy, Piedmont, Friuli, Abruzzo, Marche, Campania, Sicily, and Sardinia.

The specialized event was held in an extremely efficient, from the perspective of the current situation, hybrid format: online communication with producers in the Zoom conference mode, with simultaneous tasting of their wines. Pursuant to the regulations, each of the producers – Conte Vistarino, Terredora, Cascina Chicco, Sa Raja, Conted’Attimis, Mazzola, Ronco Margherita, Baronedi Serramarrocco, San Lorenzo, Endrizzi, La Fortezza – had 15 minutes to present their company and its three wines.

Ukraine also became the leader in terms of the number of professionals who took part in the event: 8 tasters (in compliance with all quarantine measures!); 6 participants were representing Russia, 2 – Canada and Germany, and 1 – the USA.

The event was moderated by our fellow journalist from Poland Tomasz Prange-Barczyński, a reputable wine expert, whom Drinks + columnists have met several times at the wine events around the world.

In order to organize its events in different countries, the Italian Taste Summit team, as a rule, prefers the partnership of specialized media, which, like Drinks+ Communication Media Group, have extensive experience in conducting tastings and presentations of various formats and, at the same time, are covering these professional events. What is no less important: wine journalists know better than anyone else the complex situation in their own market, its key and new importers, distributors, retail and HoReCa operators, and also enjoy undeniable authority with them.

The wines presented at the Ukrainian session of the Italian Taste Summit attracted the interest of domestic importers, which will further strengthen Italy’s position as country No. 1 in terms of import of wines to Ukraine.

Drinks+ would like to thank Anton Dyrul, CEO of Wine Gallery, and Natalia Burlachenko, Brand Ambassador of Vinos de La Luz, for their assistance in organizing the event.

The Ukrainian session of the global tasting – Italian Taste Summit – was held in Kyiv, and Drinks+ was the partner of the global tasting in Ukraine.

The global online tasting of Valpolicella wines was conducted almost in the style of Sherlock Holmes. The peculiarity of the tasting was that not a single name of the wine producer was pronounced!

On the first day of Valpolicella Annual Conference 2021, which was held online for the first time in its history, three, absolutely unique virtual sessions of tastings, were held for representatives of the media and business. We admit that this is the first time, when we have encountered such a format. The focus of the tasting was not the wine producer (the organizers were deliberately silent about the wine producers), but the method of production and the territory.

100 participants, including Drinks+, from 25 countries of the world received 12 samples, without the producer’s name specified thereon. The wines were pre-selected for shipment by the valpo out of 100 nominees. During 3.5 hours, the speakers and participants carried out the so-called analysis of the “wine of the method” and the “wine of the territory”, taking into account the parameters of climate change and the evolution of consumption. All three sessions were moderated by Wine Marketing Consultant and Educator JC Viens.

The tasting focused on the wines: Amarone, Ripasso, and Valpolicella. The goal of the online tasting was to assess the style of each sample, discuss its concept using the deductive method: disregarding, as much as possible, the subjective factors associated with the winemaker’s name or the brand image. As the unforgettable Sherlock Holmes used to say: usually, details appear to be the most important. So, let us broach the details.

Amarone della Valpolicella

The appassimento method was the focus of the first tasting session. According to Maurizio Juliano, professor of oenology at the University of Verona, “the uniqueness of the territory, varieties and a wide selection of amarone producers enable us to bring to the market the red wines that can satisfy the tastes of modern consumers”. If we analyze the area allotted for vineyards planted with the top 10 main international varieties in the world’s major wine-making countries, we come up with the following results: in Italy, it is only 38%, whereas 62% of the vineyards are planted with autochthonous varieties. Incidentally, in Spain the share of international varieties is 74%, in China – 72%, in France – 70%, and in America – 61%. Despite the continuous aging, numerous producers are trying to make amarone more fruity and fresher, as required by the latest trends proved by the results of the consumers’ survey. Many wineries create amarone with aromas, in which floral, balsamic notes, eucalyptus, mint and a bit of black pepper dominate. This is a trend that we will observe in production, which will further enhance the identity of this unique wine.

Much in the creation of these wines depends on the appassimento process, its time lag, because it is this stage that will ensure the abundance of amarone aromas. To improve the appassimento, winemakers use new technologies of working with lower temperatures for drying grapes, adjusting the time, thus preserving freshness of berries.

All four presented amarone samples have a classic aroma that indicates the peculiarities of the production process: grapes dried by the appassimento method. Red fruits, prunes, dried cherries, flora and spices dominate in the aroma.

Valpolicella Ripasso

The 2019 changes to Valpolicella Ripasso’s production regulations were the focus of the second panel of the online tasting. For 10 years, from 2008 to 2018, the production of these wines had shown 128% growth. Valpolicella Ripasso wines compete well in the international market; when enhancing their identity, the producers are guided by the specific unique methodology including updated rules.

The introduction of new rules has brought the Valpolicella Ripasso wines to an absolutely new level. As to the new rules, the following should be emphasized: mandatory presence in these wines (from 10% to a maximum of 15%) of the wine material aged on the pulp, obtained during the creation of amarone and/or rechioto; exclusion of the practice of purchasing grape pomace from subcontractors; increase in the duration of the processes of maceration and fermentation. These qualifying changes have also influenced the commercial aspect, integrating wines into new markets.

Alessandro Bellotto, participant of the panel “Master of Wine” emphasizes that “it would be ideal to maximize the use of local varieties and reduce international to almost zero. Local varieties are more stable in the climate change conditions”.

The samples presented demonstrated a couple of ripasso’s main styles.

Valpolicella

The final meeting of the tasting day was dedicated to Valpolicella, the renewal and positioning of this category in the international market. In my opinion, the report made by one of the tasting participants was indeed interesting: when making his report, Gabriele Gorelli, Italy’s first Master of Wine, suggested that “the French experience can be applied to the category of base wines of Valpolicella region: Valpolicella will have a great opportunity to become a “terroir wine”, like Beaujolais, and it will be possible to introduce a “village category” that will add value to the name”.  In addition, Alberto Brunelli, oenologist and advisor to the Consortium for the Protection of Valpolicella Wines, shared the innovations: “Today, we are developing rules of use for bottle-sealing of some of Valpolicella wines (whose names contain “Classico”, “Superiore”, and “Valpantena”), using a screw cap. The goal of these changes is to increase the potential of wines in some European markets using alternative packaging”.  This will primarily affect the Scandinavian countries.

Nota bene

The “deductive” tastings and pre-presentation of wines and the region at the Valpolicella Annual Conference is a great innovation for the bodies, whose mission is to promote special winemaking methods and terroir characteristics. As far as we know, the Consortium for the Protection of Valpolicella Wines was the world’s pioneer for pursuing such format and did a tremendous organizational work to ensure that the first “deductive tasting” was successful. As everyone understands, many technical, including logistical, problems caused by the pandemic had to be solved. But the result exceeded expectations: we inquired into Valpolicella’s wines with no less enthusiasm than into Arthur Conan Doyle’s detective stories.

We extend our gratitude for the invitation to the Valpolicella Annual Conference and are looking forward to meeting offline shortly!

The global online tasting of Valpolicella wines was conducted almost in the style of Sherlock Holmes.

Like many other wonderful drinks, the mankind was lucky enough to get Pétillant Naturel wines (French for “naturally sparkling”) from the French. Today, the Pét-Nat category roams Europe, attracting more and more winemakers and gaining an army of lovers. And in its homeland, this traditionally freedom-loving example of sparkling wines acquires even regulations and registration. Suffice it to recall, for instance, the experience of one of Languedoc appellations: Limoux Methode Ancestrale AOC Wine.

However, in their essence, Pét-Nats are like hippies: nature, freedom and individuality are their three pillars. Therefore, different varieties are used to create them: Mauzac and Gewürztraminer, Chenin Blanc and Hárslevelű, Lambrusco and Nero d’Avolo. Some winemakers resort to fermentation in barrels, others in steel, cement tanks or in amphorae. Perfectionists control the temperature regime and carry out remuage and degorge (incidentally, these processes are in high favor with numerous Moldavian winemakers). “Freethinkers” let the temperature “run its course” and advocate for cloudy. Residual sugars range from 12 to 20 g per liter. And Pét-Nats come out both dry and semi-dry. Some Pét-Nats are corked like champagne, other Pét-Nats are born covered with the beer bottle cap. Prices are also fluctuating: some winemakers are ready to sell a bottle for literally 7 euros, whereas others position their natural sparkling wine almost like champagne and sell for 50.

As early as in the last year, Drinks+ emphasized that Pét-Nats had become a global trend. Despite the fact that at the time the idea of making Pét-Nats sounded bizarre, at the present stage, we are already able to observe a total infatuation. That means that one can already start monitoring the particularities of production of Pét-Nats in Ukraine.

Pét and Nat of Alexander Kovach

It seems that Alexander Kovach, a winemaker from Transcarpathia and founder of the family craft winery “Kovach Wines”, approached the production of Pét-Nats as a chess game – thoughtfully and carefully. As a matter of principle, it should be pointed out that Kovach was one of the first winemakers in Ukraine who was thinking about promises offered by this trendy category.

At least, Alexander assures that this was a planned project: “One is unable to make a Pét-Nat accidentally. In order to make it, one should necessarily order a champagne bottle which keeps a high pressure; to carry out controlled fermentation, and to implement some preparatory measures”. Good preparation gave the result: the very first release was a success. “At the end of fermentation, I separate some wine from the entire wine volume and pour it into bottles. If you have controlled fermentation, then in 10-14 days, depending on initial sugar content in the wort, you can bottle. I determine a residual sugar content in the laboratory, when there is 3% left, we pour the wine into the bottles”, – Alexander Kovach comments on the process. – There were some mistakes, but this year I made adjustments. After all, on the one hand, Pét-Nats are easy to produce, on the other – there may be surprises and not always pleasant ones. Unlike traditional technology, where some problems can be rectified at the stage of quiet fermentation, you can’t change anything in the bottle. Therefore, everything should be correct from the very start, and most importantly, clean.”

During previous years, Kovach’s winery experimented with Muscat Holodryhy, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc for whites; Cabernet Sauvignon was chosen for rosé wine; Cabernet Sauvignon and Odessa Black were blended for a red sparkling wine. Production volumes include about 200 bottles of each type. You can try them in the winery’s tasting rooms in Uzhhorod and Lviv, as well as right at the winery. “A year or two ago, only a few winemakers started carefully applying this technology. Now, according to social media reports, many [winemakers] have begun their experiments with Pét-Nats. You will be surprised shortly!” – Alexander Kovach predicts.

Home Wine From Boris: staying on top

Victoria and Boris Pecker, owners of the Nikolaev winery Home Wine From Boris located on top of a multistoried-building, admit that the idea to make Pét-Nats was autochthonous. “After removing wort from lees, there were about 100 liters of red wine and as much of white was left;  it was undesirable to pour [these liters] into a 500-liter barrel for post-fermentation. They were bottled into one-and-a-half-liter plastic bottles”, – the owners told.

Sharing their impressions of the new experience, the winemakers say that the conclusions are ambiguous: “The process is time-consuming, you have to tinker with each bottle on an individual basis. The original taste is similar to the wort at the stage of silent fermentation…”. At “Home Wine From Boris”, Pét-Nats were produced from the varieties: Odessa Black, Merlot and Johanniter. “We do not make blends, as it is technically difficult. The first fermentation stage takes about 14 days, including five to seven days of maceration for red. Thereupon, bottling comes – after removal from crude lees at the stage of silent fermentation” – the winemakers say.

Boris says that the further procedure of preparing Pét-Nats on their rooftop terrace took place in several stages. The first was bottling, when was a challenge to regulate a degree of carbonization. “Often, at a touch, the cork tears off and a bottle turns into a wild and bloody genie”, – the winemaker says. – Cleaning can take hours and even days. After bottling, we put Pét-Nats off for two months.

The second stage is racking wine off settled lees. “The main thing is to carefully reduce the pressure when opening the bottle. Thereupon, a ready-made wine, well saturated with CO2, is put off until summer”, – Boris shares his experience.

The third stage – just before use – the sparkling wine is carefully poured into a decanter or a clean bottle. “The effervescence usually continues for a day, even in a decanter. Having passed all stages, we are awarded with an ecological wine without any preservatives and sulfites”, – the master emphasizes.

Boris and Victoria believe that creating a Pét-Nat is a rather labor-consuming process and that is why few Ukrainian winemakers go for such experiments. The list of disadvantages also includes: “Low yield of a final product. The taste is significantly inferior to the same wine, which has passed the correct aging, sulfitation, and clarification. In addition, the usual syphon will turn any wine into Pét-Nat without much effort”. Pét-Nat releases at the winery owned by Boris and Victoria are about 200 1.5-liter bottles. To cut a long story short, they produce Pét-Nats for themselves and their friends. They also do not see any economic expediency in such production: given the man-hours spent, it should be comparable to any other high-quality sparkling wine, which makes Pét-Nat uncompetitive. “The drink is for moxie moments and breaking the monotony. Similarly to blue wine or white wine from red grapes”, – the winemakers summarize.

Bohdan’s winery shoots the fish in the barrel

Another Ukrainian craft producer, Bohdan Pavliy, the founder of Bohdan’s winery near Kamenets-Podilsky, began experimenting with Pét-Nats last year. “I did not make a classic Pét-Nat in bottles – I made it in a tank. I presented that drink at the Food and Wine Festival in Kyiv and at the Wine and Cheese Festival in Lviv. Those were two 30-liter barrels: white and rosé. The residual sugar content was 6%”, – the winemaker said.

Bohdan’s winery vineyards consist of resilient complex hybrids of European and American selection. A blend of early white varieties was used to produce Pét-Nats.

“To all appearances, the reason why Pét-Nats are produced by not so many winemakers, is that it is not very popular in Ukraine”, – Bohdan Pavliy said. “Besides, it’s not as easy to make it as it may seem”.

He who has climbed a mountain, knows best

However, Anton Liapin, Head of the winery “Honcharna Hora” (the “Potter’s Mountain”) in Kharkov Region is of the opposite opinion. He believes that garage winemaking initially involves an author’s approach to making wines, experimenting with technologies and verification methods, so it would be wrong to bypass a hype product like Pét-Nat. “As far as I know, there are no strict regulations for production of this drink, which leaves an ample room for creativity. And méthode ancestrale is very suitable for garage winemaking, because, unlike the traditional method and Charmat method, it does not require complex equipment, a large number of additional operations, it is inexpensive and technically simple”, – Anton Liapin said.

Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Citron Maharacha, and Johanniter were used in the production of their experimental Pét-Nats this year at the winery “Honcharna Hora”. Those were mainly experimental blends with different proportions. “The state is not yet issuing licenses for sales, so we produce in small batches, for treating ourselves and our friends” – the winemaker says.

Anton emphasizes that in the process of Pét-Nats production, the key point is to correctly determine the bottling time so that the sugar in the fermenting wort is about 15–25 g/l. And the winemaker says that he is not impressed by a too cloudy Pét-Nat. “It is important to have a good raw material, with high acidity, minimal contact with the grape skin, and well-clarified juice before fermentation. Moreover, almost all lees from the bottle can be removed if you do not transport the wine and open it properly”, – he shares his experience.

The winemaker is confident that the Ukrainian Pét-Nats will definitely exist. “Many people are already experimenting with this category, and there will be even more. It’s just that the results of experiments are not yet reaching consumers, but it is a matter of time. Many people make this drink just for themselves. In my understanding, Pét-Nat is not very suitable for transportation, it is better to drink it where it is produced” – the master says.

SliVino Village are already bottling …

When sharing with Drinks+ his thoughts about Pét-Nats, Georgiy Molchanov, co-owner of SliVino Village, assistant to Mikhail Molchanov, Chief Winemaker, and Chairman of the Association of Craft Winemakers of the Black Sea Region, emphasized their advantage: “Pét-Nats are trendy. That year, acting solely for the sake of an experiment, we made Pét-Nats for the first time – only 50 bottles. We worked with such varieties as Odessa Black, Muscat Odessa, and Cabernet (rosé). We bottle Pét-Nats according to the table, which means subject to the effervescence that we intend to achieve, and at such specific density bottling is also taking place; in this case [for Pét-Nats], we bottle to attain 2-3 bars of pressure”, – he says.

The Molchanov are cautious: the experimental natural sparkling wines were made by them only for tastings at the winery. “As far as I know, the term Pét-Nat itself is not officially used in Ukraine, so there may be problems with their sales”, – Georgiy Molchanov explains.

Real Don and natural tulburel

Alexander Shapovalov, owner of Don Alejandro Winery on the west bank of Khadzhibeysky Estuary in the village of Kholodnaya Balka in Odessa Region, was lucky to have been born into a family of winemakers. So, he literally was soaking Pét-Nats with his mother’s milk. “My grandfather called this drink “sparkler”, and his neighbor Ionel, who was a Moldavian – “turburel”.

Since those were mainly red wine grapes that were grown in Bessarabian villages,  “sparkler” was red. It was simple: not yet fully fermented grape juice was poured into the old bottles which once contained “Sovetskoye Shampanskoye”; thereupon, the bottles were capped, using formerly used plastic stoppers, which were screwed with earlier used wire hood (muselet) on top for reliability. The bottles placed into a metal box formerly used for milk bottles were then sent to the cellar’s far corner, because some bottles were likely to burst from pressure and possible microcracks. The ladies would call their grandfathers’ drink in a sweet family way: “shampusik”; they loved it for its stinging bubbles and cheerful temperament, and would often ask to open it next summer. However, my grandfather would argue that “it was a stock for Christmas, and not much of the special product was made (no more than 15-20 bottles a year…”, – the winemaker recalls.

Almost 40 years have passed since then, and now Alexander Shapovalov is himself experimenting with primary fermentation in a bottle. “To date, I have managed to empirically develop a technology for production of this wonderful sparkling drink, and because we have no Ukrainian name for that drink, our so-called “wine regulators” claim that it is a “fake”)); well, let it be called in the French style: Pét-Nat. Today, my collection of home-made Pét-Nats has more than 30 specimens. The most vintage one is Rkatsiteli, 2013. I also like Pét-Nats made from Pinot Noir, Odessa Black, Centaur, Pervenets Maharacha, Aligote, and Muscat Holodryhy” – Alexander says.

At Don Alejandro Winery, degorging is avoided to preserve authenticity of the product. “We do not sell our Pét-Nats, we enjoy them ourselves, we use them to give a treat for our friends and guests during tastings held at our winery during a warm season” – the master says.

Narovylo: by way of trial only

Valery Narovylo, creator and chief winemaker of Narovylo winery, admits that he decided to experiment with “village sparkling wine” after the seminars held in February 2020 by Alina Tenetko and Masha Skorchenko (creators of Just Ferment It wine educational project). “We tried Pét-Nats along with sparkling classic [wines]”, – the winemaker emphasizes.

As a result, he realized that his heart was in Pét-Nats from Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, although in addition to these varieties, Valery Narovylo also used Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. “The moment of bottling is determined by the amount of residual sugar during wort fermentation”.

I like the drink itself, but the wine lees and turbidity are a little confusing. This season, I will try to make it more clarified”, – Valery plans. In total, the winemaker produces about 60 bottles of Pét-Nats. He says, that the drink produced is not for sale, it is sufficient only for the family and friends.

Father’s wine VB: Pét-Nat by powerhouse

Father’s wine VB, the winemakers’ family from the town of Husiatyn, Ternopil Region, was introduced to the promising Pét-Nat category by the consultants Masha Skorchenko and Alina Tenetko (creators of Just Ferment It wine educational project). “We made the first release together, and it was a planned project. We realized that the time of the first fermentation depended on a variety, the wort’s initial density and temperature of fermentation. We determine the bottling time by density (we monitor the decline dynamics every 30 minutes)”, – they told us at the winery.

The first experience was successful; the wine was made from Jupiter variety according to the schemes prescribed by Alina and Masha. It was rosé Pét-Nat that was the most admired by those who were invited to tastings organized by the winemakers. “But the release was tiny: 100 bottles, so stocks ran out quickly. We believe that Pét-Nat is ideal for lovers of everything, which is natural; such people accept both lees and extravagant aromas” – the masters say.

Pét-Nats blends are not made at the winery. Jupiter, Muscat Ottonel, and Johanniter are used on a “solo basis”, and Cabernet Sauvignon was also used that year. In 2020, a total of 1,200 Pét-Nat bottles of four types were produced and are being offered at tastings. To all appearances, at the current stage, this winery has become the country’s leader and powerhouse in terms of the range and volumes of Pét-Nats produced. According to the owners of Father’s wine VB, the explosion of demand for Pét-Nats is hindered only by one thing: inability to sell them officially.

Biologist: reasonable follow-up

In our opinion, Igor Petrenko, the founder and chief winemaker of Biologist craft winery (Kyiv Region), is the first person in the country, who is ready to solve this specific problem. He said that the decision to make Pét-Nats had been born as an alternative to the country’s sparkling wine. He started producing ancestrale wines because “he wanted to do something new, to do an experiment”. So Pét-Nat from Biologist is an experimental project. Igor emphasizes that the Pét-Nats are not for sale. Nevertheless, the winery decided to “continue to develop this vector”. The year before last, the winery produced single-variety Pét-Nats from such varieties as Aligote, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, and Cabernet. Last year, it made 100% pure Pinot Noir and blends using Traminer, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.

Production particularities: the first fermentation takes approximately ten days. Density and sugar content are measured; thereupon, the date of completion of the drink’s dry fermentation in a bottle is calculated. By the date thus calculated, bottling of the fermenting wort is to start. Thereupon, the drink is sent for maturing for at least nine months. Some specimens mature in a bottle for more than a year.

“We must admit that our first attempts were not always successful, which is primarily due to excessive alcohol content (about 13%). That mistake was rectified this year” – the winemaker shares his experience.

According to Igor Petrenko, Pét-Nat from Biologist is unfiltered and has fine lees, which is not a proof of damage or defect. The Pét-Nats produced at the winery are clarified and have an attractive aroma of “home sparkling wine”. “In order to avoid repulsive aromas, it is also necessary to control removal of sulfur-like off-odors and reduction in wines. This is not a simple process and requires a deep dive into fermentation and aging” – he says.

In 2019, the winery produced about 300 bottles of Pét-Nats and approximately 600 in 2020.

Igor Petrenko emphasizes that the process of Pét-Nats production is very time-consuming, and today’s fashion for Pét-Nats and further interest in them should be developed, using the winery’s own resources. In addition, Pét-Nats are not yet regulated by the existing National Standards of Ukraine and require separate technical documentation. It may appear interesting for the Ukrainian wine community to get to know that Biologist has already begun the process of preparing the necessary documentation for applying for the Pét-Nats production license. In the near future, the winery is going to get a license to sell Pét-Nats and actively commence their promotion.

Drinks+ warning: lightness is good for your health

Well, first to go! Although the world’s interest in natural wines (it should be pointed out that despite a number of reservations and compromises, the Ukrainian Pét-Nats are excellent exponents of this line of wine business) evoked twenty years ago, the today’s commotion in the ranks of microwine producers challenges the entire industry. Even if one finds this conclusion incorrect, and the comparison with commercial counterparts inappropriate, the Ukrainian Pét-Nats are not just an echo of the world trend. This is a clear sign for all winemakers, not only for the Ukrainian ones. Hopefully, most of our winemakers already understand: despite the fact that microwinemakers are a “microelement” of the business today (forgive this trite saying of mine!), and their wines are often far from perfect, their very presence and clear focus on naturalness and quality are gradually changing the market. Most importantly, the microwinemakers’ experiments are changing the consumer.

Before long, the wine lovers will appreciate the beauty of this game: the prospects and attractiveness of natural wines. They will begin to understand a delicate gradation of their aromas, distinguish wild yeast from artificial additives, forgive the unpredictability of these wines and appreciate them for their natural liveliness. Finally, they will realize that a craft wine and a cheap wine from commercial giants, are as far from each other as the cherries recently plucked from a tree are from Montpensier Pastilles.

It goes without saying that there have always been serious winemaking and great wines (thank goodness!). However, if we broach such issue as popular passion, the winners will include primarily those winemakers who will manage to combine the quality stability attained by the commercial production, with the vector of natural products: lightness of Pét-Nats, drinkability of wines in Glou-Glou style, and freshness of brut nature. To cut a long story short: Bottoms up!

Drinks+ emphasized that Pét-Nats had become a global trend, so one can already start monitoring the particularities of production of Pét-Nats in Ukraine.

The wineries Deux Roches and Altugnac represent two different regions of France, two terroirs and absolutely different wines. Nevertheless, these wineries are the life-work of the same winemakers!

For over 30 years, Deux Roches and Altugnac wines have been created by a large close-knit family. Christian Collovray and Jean-Luc Terrier are childhood friends, and both are the sons of winegrowers. Their wives – sisters
Brigitte and Florence – are also from the wine-making dynasty. Today, Christian takes care of the vines; JeanLuc runs the cellar and deals with commercial issues, whereas Brigitte and Florence assumed the administrative functions. Their children Julien and Pierre-Alexis, who studied in the USA, Britain, New Zealand and Switzerland, also joined the Adventure.

Deux Roches. Burgundy. The winery, located in Maconnais region, is surrounded by the high rocks of Solutre and Vergisson, which are popularly called the “Place of French Power”. Those were Deux Roches (two rocks) that became the winery’s emblem. Deux Roches are elegant white Burgundy wines from Chardonnay. Maconnais vineyards are typical of Southern Burgundy: there are many different microterroirs on gentle hills and among the rocks. The arid and rocky soil is an ideal area for this variety, and it is not a secret that Burgundy Chardonnays are especially appreciated in the world. Incidentally, in 2020 some of the best terroirs of Pouilly-Fuisse (20%) obtained Premier Cru status (a historic event for Maconnais!) which means that within a year there will be Premier Cru wines in the Deux Roches line.

In total, Deux Roches has 63 hectares of vines: 24 hectares in Saint-Veran appellation, 25 hectares in MaconVillages, Macon Chardonnay and Macon La Roche Vineuse, and additional 2,300 sq. m in Pouilly-Fuisse as well as a little less than one hectare in Macon Rouge. The wines are made in the Maconnais style: fresh, pure and mineral. The winery has two main collections: TIMELESS COLLECTION: light and drinkable, made in the author’s style for everyday
consumption at an affordable price, and CONFIDENTIAL SELECTION: Premium single plot wines from handharvested grapes fermented and aged in french oak barrels.

Altugnac. Languedoc. The winery Altugnac is located in the south, in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Antugnac (Altugnac is its olden times name) is a picturesque village in the mountain amphitheater. The vineyards are located at an altitude of 300 to 600 meters above sea level. Fruity, elegant, fresh and slightly salty wines are born here. The winery has several collections and names, including: IGP Pays d’Oc, AOP Limoux White, AOP Limoux Red, AOP Cremant de Limoux.

The most popular is Les Turitelles d’Altugnac, a collection of fine, fresh and affordable wines. The name (and character) of the wine is due to Turitelles: marine fossils abound in the vineyards in Antugnac. The red and white wines of Limoux appellation are equally popular and used to be distinguished by the wine critics and press.

Altugnac Aux Bons Hommes AOP Limoux

• Merlot 70% Syrah 10% Cabernet Franc 20%.
• Separate fermentation for each grape variety and ageing in stainless steel tanks.
• Beautiful ruby wine with an ample nose of black cherries and blackcurrants and a well-rounded body.
• Fruity flavours, spicy notes and a long cherry finish.

Altugnac Terres Amoureuses AOP Limoux

• Mauzac 15% Chardonnay 85%
• Hand-picked grapes from the oldest vines of Chardonnay in Languedoc.
• Barrel fermentation.
• Rich and elegant fruity wine with a fresh, mineral finish.

Altugnac Les Turitelles d’Altugnac Pinot Noir

• Pinot Noir 100%
• Fermentation and ageing in stainless steel or concrete tanks.
• Fine and well-ballanced wine with generous cherry, mocha, mild spices flavours and velvet tannins.

Deux Roches Macon-Villages Tradition

• Chardonnay 100%
• Blend of several plots selected for their soil qualities and exposure.
• Ageing on fine lees for several months.
• Beautiful wine with a straightforward, fruity, lively and fresh style in the pure spirit of Mâconnais wines.

Deux Roches Pouilly-Fuisse Vieilles Vignes

• Chardonnay 100%
• Selection of the nicest plots of old vines.
• Fermentation exclusively in french oak barrels.
• Delicate, mineral wine, with bright, refined aromas and a rich, solid structure.

Deux Roches Saint-Veran Les Cras

• Chardonnay 100%
• One of the best plots of the appellation.
• Hand-picked grapes.
• Fermentation and ageing in french oak barrels.
• Powerful and rich wine with mineral and woody notes and ripe white fruit flavours.

The wineries Deux Roches and Altugnac represent two different regions of France, two terroirs and absolutely different wines. Nevertheless, these wineries are the life-work of the same winemakers!